Clutch pedal woes...

[perrmike]

Hi Guys,

 

A little advice needed please guys

 

My clutch pedal dropped to the floor the other day. Changing up from 5th to 6th the pedal dropped leaving me in neutral at ahem* motorway speeds. Pedal is on the floor but can be pulled up easily and only goes back when you push it but doesnt engage the clutch.

 

My local Nissan stealers reckon its a GB off job, needing a new clutch arm- which they say has broken, clutch kit and fly @ £3.5k- but happy if I supply parts.

 

That seems a bit extreme, current clutch has done 60k I'd have thought either the slave/ master cylinder has gone (Has been a little leakage recently from behind front passenger wheel which I put down to excessive AC use).

 

Is it possible to diagnose the arm issue without GB being taken off? is it worth swapping out the cylinders/ hose just in case?

 

I do get a little diesel style clatter on shut off so thinking clutch could do with a swap out at some point soon anyway. I do a mix of motorway and city miles (With city miles in traffic) so guess I'll stick with a DM Fly.

 

Any advice greatly appreciated!

 

Cheers

Mike

[ZMANALEX]

This issue has been covered a million times on here.

 

Did you not even bother to Search?

 

Is your car a DE or HR ?

[Grundy]

Clutch problems seem to be a daily occurrence on here

[perrmike]

'000's Quite a common fault then Seriously though I've been searching for days Alex.

 

All say the same (As with any hydraulic clutch), it'll either need a bleed, new fluid or Slave/Master cylinder and hose need changing which I've communicated to Nissan but they are saying different.

 

Main question is "Is it possible to diagnose a broken clutch arm without GB being taken off? "

 

The cars an old late 03 DE done 104,000 mixed mileage.

Edited July 7, 2015 by perrmike

[ZMANALEX]

Mike,

 

99% of the time a new slave, fluid and braided line will fix the issue on a DE. (About 1 hrs work)

 

You can inspect the fork etc if you remove the rubber "grommet" around the fork on the side of the gearbox.

 

If your clutch is working again after pulling the pedal up then it wont be the fork or ball pin.

 

At 104k it is probably time for a new clutch and fly anyway, however this is not your current issue.

 

Alex.

Edited July 7, 2015 by ZMANALEX

[Ewen@Clark Motorsport]

Far more likely to be the slave cylinder than clutch arm, it a nice Labour charge for the dealer though if they have to take your box off.

 

It is known for the clutch pivot ball to break on higher mileage cars but not as common as slave cylinder issues.

[AliveBoy]

There's an inspection hole, which if you use an endoscope or something similar you could check the arm for a breakage.

 

However, more likely to be as above...

[perrmike]

Cheers Guys you've echoed my thoughts exactly. Good to know about grommet/ inspection hole.

 

I might go for a new clutch and fly anyway and get it all done at once. The bite is getting a little high and the clatter on shut off is annoying. Will put back buying a decent everyday runner another few months though

 

Ewen I'll give you guys a shout once I hear back from Nissan

[Sargara]

.... and the clatter on shut off is annoying.

 

Its a 350z thing, they all do that so a new clutch wont solve it I believe.

[ZMANALEX]

.... and the clatter on shut off is annoying.

 

Its a 350z thing, they all do that so a new clutch wont solve it I believe.

 

No, but a new fly might.

[Ewen@Clark Motorsport]

Cheers Guys you've echoed my thoughts exactly. Good to know about grommet/ inspection hole.

 

I might go for a new clutch and fly anyway and get it all done at once. The bite is getting a little high and the clatter on shut off is annoying. Will put back buying a decent everyday runner another few months though

 

Ewen I'll give you guys a shout once I hear back from Nissan

 

Xtreme light weight flywheel and clutch kit is in stock