Chromatic Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Hey guys,.. I've been having this Clutch issue since I got the car Dec 2013.. Had 26k .. Now has 35k. I posted about it here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/81268-clutch-feels-weird-when-pushing-the-car/ But basically the clutch doesn't slip in the typical manner. It drives normal when driving normal. For example.. If I put it in 5th or 6th gear while going 15-20mph (super slow).. and floor it.. the clutch does NOT slip one bit. Same for any test of that manner.. putting it in a gear that almost bogs.. that would rev up a bit with a slipping clutch. MY problem is when I get to about 4,000 RPM and above.. When I shift gears (doesn't matter which ) -- When I get into the next gear.. it will "rev" freely 100-200 rpm then come right back down to normal. It's brief but definitely not normal. I can't get the full potential out of the car and am , honestly, scared to push it too hard because I'm unsure if the clutch is about to go.. or if it's something else. I'm prepared to get another clutch put in if need be -- I just don't want to get that done if it's something else.. and waste a ton of money. I mean this car does have 35k miles and I bought it with 26k and have babied it. Does anyone have any ideas to help me isolate the problem? (The pedal doesn't fall to the floor) -- (I've changed the clutch fluid out). Thanks for any help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hensh65 Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 They normally go between 40 and 60k. So if you change the clutch it wont be wasted time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toon Chris Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 They normally go between 40 and 60k. So if you change the clutch it wont be wasted time. My clutches last over 100K on every car I've owned. Its all down to how you drive. That said it does sound like something faulty in the clutch. Maybe (in other words I'm guessing) some clutch plate contamination or a localised problem on the pressure plate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 How does you pedal feel? is there free play at the top before you feel any real resistance, could be a simple case of bad adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Does the pedal return fully ? I'm thinking slave or master cylinder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 Or maybe a fluid change and a braided line might be a good starting point Have you checked the clutch flexi for bulges ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 I've changed fluid -- Haven not put braided line. The existing line has no bulges. Pedal returns fully -- I've adjusted it a few times since I got it (and when I replaced all the pedals,.. and when I added cruise (just fine tuning the travel) -- There is no play. Pedal feel -- Hrmm.. It doesn't feel like a brand new clutch. But it's not super mushy/spongy like a really bad clutch feels. I would say it feels "Suspect" but like a clutch that's worn a bit (but this is just my 17 years of driving manuals and the pedal feel) -- could mean nothing.. I don't have another 350Z to compare it to. To be honest.. I don't have $2,000 ,.. and don't want to sink that kind of money into this car on this. What am I looking at to buy the RIGHT aftermarket 1) (better Slave cylinder).. 2) New master cylinder -- 3) Clutch kit (Which one would you recommend? -- Factory feel is fine.. though I don't mind a bit stronger grip.. just don't want anything tougher than the pedal feel / push now -- and I don't want *any* more chatter to the existing normal chatter of our factory clutches ) -- So with that in mind,.. give me a few options of clutch kits aftermarket (I assume they are cheaper than factory) to go with. 4) Flywheel -- Since it's not burned out.. Can I get away without buying a flywheel? Or trying to get this one resurfaced? Perhaps it's just fine since the clutch isn't slipping/super bad? (I ask cause flywheels are expensive, .. and I don't want the lightweight flywheel due to the noise factor. 5) any odds and ends I need to get this all put together? Finally labor! The big cost on top of this. (Let Nissan/Infiniti do it because they do it everyday?) -- Or go with some random mechanic? What's fair price for clutch, and slave/master replacement (I provide parts) Can I get away with something closer to $1,000 US? Installed (I don't have the eqipment to do this myself. And,.. while down there I do want the slave cylinder replaced (and I've read there are Heavy duty slave cylinders that are not prone to failing, instead of putting another factory slave cylinder in that still is prone to failure?? Other than just getting this all done in the next few months.. I don't know how to diagnose it. Again , fluids been changed (twice actually) -- line looks good, but isn't braided. That said, it shouldn't be doing this even with a factory line (if that were the case, then all factory Z's brand new would do this.) To have someone have a "look" to see if something is up with the pressure plate, fingers, fork, etc.. it's going to be the same sort of cost as getting all of this done/replaced anyhow.. So what do you think? And links to parts -- and recommendations for reaching my goal of as close to $1000 I can get to would be absolutely phenomenal. I know I'm in the states, but you guys can likely use the internet as well as I can to help me out with the whole "package" needed to take care of the whole clutch system here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 Just a note on clutch adjustment, you do actually need about 1/2" of free play before the clutch starts to disengage, otherwise you run the risk of not having the clutch fully engaged, which is why I asked the question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Just a note on clutch adjustment, you do actually need about 1/2" of free play before the clutch starts to disengage, otherwise you run the risk of not having the clutch fully engaged, which is why I asked the question. Thanks. I leave play in it, so it fully disengages -- too tight on the fork will wear the clutch constantly. So no more ideas eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choptop Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 I've changed fluid -- Haven not put braided line. The existing line has no bulges. Pedal returns fully -- I've adjusted it a few times since I got it (and when I replaced all the pedals,.. and when I added cruise (just fine tuning the travel) -- There is no play. Pedal feel -- Hrmm.. It doesn't feel like a brand new clutch. But it's not super mushy/spongy like a really bad clutch feels. I would say it feels "Suspect" but like a clutch that's worn a bit (but this is just my 17 years of driving manuals and the pedal feel) -- could mean nothing.. I don't have another 350Z to compare it to. To be honest.. I don't have $2,000 ,.. and don't want to sink that kind of money into this car on this. What am I looking at to buy the RIGHT aftermarket 1) (better Slave cylinder).. 2) New master cylinder -- 3) Clutch kit (Which one would you recommend? -- Factory feel is fine.. though I don't mind a bit stronger grip.. just don't want anything tougher than the pedal feel / push now -- and I don't want *any* more chatter to the existing normal chatter of our factory clutches ) -- So with that in mind,.. give me a few options of clutch kits aftermarket (I assume they are cheaper than factory) to go with. 4) Flywheel -- Since it's not burned out.. Can I get away without buying a flywheel? Or trying to get this one resurfaced? Perhaps it's just fine since the clutch isn't slipping/super bad? (I ask cause flywheels are expensive, .. and I don't want the lightweight flywheel due to the noise factor. 5) any odds and ends I need to get this all put together? Finally labor! The big cost on top of this. (Let Nissan/Infiniti do it because they do it everyday?) -- Or go with some random mechanic? What's fair price for clutch, and slave/master replacement (I provide parts) Can I get away with something closer to $1,000 US? Installed (I don't have the eqipment to do this myself. And,.. while down there I do want the slave cylinder replaced (and I've read there are Heavy duty slave cylinders that are not prone to failing, instead of putting another factory slave cylinder in that still is prone to failure?? Other than just getting this all done in the next few months.. I don't know how to diagnose it. Again , fluids been changed (twice actually) -- line looks good, but isn't braided. That said, it shouldn't be doing this even with a factory line (if that were the case, then all factory Z's brand new would do this.) To have someone have a "look" to see if something is up with the pressure plate, fingers, fork, etc.. it's going to be the same sort of cost as getting all of this done/replaced anyhow.. So what do you think? And links to parts -- and recommendations for reaching my goal of as close to $1000 I can get to would be absolutely phenomenal. I know I'm in the states, but you guys can likely use the internet as well as I can to help me out with the whole "package" needed to take care of the whole clutch system here. Check out the US based 350z forums to find a good independent garage near to you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chromatic Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Check out the US based 350z forums to find a good independent garage near to you I found a Z and Infiniti shop locally.. his rate is $110 an hour. Which is reasonable. But, I'm still stuck with what's wrong here. So no one has had this, or heard of this behavior? If not.. Let's say I do the clutch .. I would need: 1) Hi-perf clutch (cheaper) 2) Flywheel (Any aftermarket ones that don't make more noise than stock?) 3) New Concentric Slave cylinder.. there is a Heavy Duty aftermarket Slave cylinder that doesn't go bad.. You guys know what it is? 4) Master cylinder (Silly not to replace it while doing this.. esp. if it's a problem that is unknown) 5) Throw out bearing 6) Stainless clutch line Anything I'm missing? Should look something like this (minus the missing images of CSC and MCylinder) I know this can be done for $1000-$1400 US (parts and labor) -- fair labor for all of it is 5 hours.. at $500 (or $550 for this $110/hr guy) I'm just not sure about an aftermarket flywheel as I hear they make noise.. but some say that some "combo's" don't make any more noise.. which? Cause JUST the OEM Flywheel is $1000 -- That is nuts. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Re: Flywheel ~ just in case it helps with making your mind up about the flywheel there is some info/comparisons in this thread. Link: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/91084-video-smf-vs-dmf-comparison/#entry1371971 Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GIXXERUK Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Just a note on clutch adjustment, you do actually need about 1/2" of free play before the clutch starts to disengage, otherwise you run the risk of not having the clutch fully engaged, which is why I asked the question. Thanks. I leave play in it, so it fully disengages -- too tight on the fork will wear the clutch constantly. So no more ideas eh? Badly adjusted can mean it's riding the clutch and can stop the master cylinder piston completing a full stroke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Just a note on clutch adjustment, you do actually need about 1/2" of free play before the clutch starts to disengage, otherwise you run the risk of not having the clutch fully engaged, which is why I asked the question. Thanks. I leave play in it, so it fully disengages -- too tight on the fork will wear the clutch constantly. So no more ideas eh? Badly adjusted can mean it's riding the clutch and can stop the master cylinder piston completing a full stroke It can also cause the MS piston to not uncover the second fluid transfer port, which then leads to a floppy pedal as its running out of fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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