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vortech bypass adjustment


Vortec27

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Firstly I wouldnt be running a supercharger without afr gauges.

 

Secondly now you have adjusted bypass valves theres a very good chance you have affected the running of the engine.

 

I wouldnt be driving it at all until it has been checked by a specialist, ie abbey motorsport, horsham developments, advanced motorsport engineering

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Firstly I wouldnt be running a supercharger without afr gauges.

 

Secondly now you have adjusted bypass valves theres a very good chance you have affected the running of the engine.

 

I wouldnt be driving it at all until it has been checked by a specialist, ie abbey motorsport, horsham developments, advanced motorsport engineering

+1

i think this is just the normal noise, my setup is a V3 and a BOV like yours and i have the same noise.

i think its normal.

some day i will put some air filter on the BOV to see if the noise stops.

a new member with a vortech! you should add your name to the forced induction members page. where are you from?

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The whistle is just a characteristic of the setup and you'll have to live with it I'm afraid.

You can get a filter from vortech or superchargers online that fits on it and changes the tone slightly and reduces noise a tiny bit. With the filter fitted you have to adjust the valve a little though as the restriction changes the valve's operation a bit. The filter is a good idea if you ever plan on driving with the S/C belt off as stops debris getting in when in vacuum.

Without a filter fitted - 9 threads showing is about the norm.

 

The most important thing is that you don't get any compressor surge - Chattering/chirping when you let off the throttle or change gear.

If the BPV closes when on the throttle (accelerating), produces the right amount of boost, and you don't get any chattering when you let off then I wouldn't worry.

 

It shouldn't effect your tune as the map is RPM and AFM based and the BPV is before the AFM so should adjust it accordingly.

 

:)

 

As said above though, I would recommend an AFR gauge just to keep an eye on things for piece of mind. Also helps with fault finding when the time comes.

Also, check your vac/boost lines as darren says its normally the first place to start with FI problems.

Edited by Sam Mcgoo
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Hi Sam thanks for your 2 pence worth. the high picth whistle was not there befor map i had the jet kind of swoosh noise what was nice :) I got it mapped but it was not makeing more then 5psi boost with 3.12 pulley so the garage played with bypass adjust screw at the time of mapping and never put the adjust screw back to the stock 8-9 threads. also they was thinking I had a boost leak at 1 point turns out my belt was sliping . So it looks like they maped it with about 5-6 threads showing

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This is what vortech has to say

 

 

Good afternoon Vortec27

 

The threads differ from valve to valve, so there is no set amount that should be shown.

 

Your best bet is normally to take the valve off completely from the piping to visually inspect the valve. If you look into the opening of the valve and there is a gap, then that means you need to adjust the adjustment screw located on top. If the valve is closed completely then no adjustment is needed.

 

Also, it is very important not to push or poke the diaphragm of the valve for this will damage the valve.

 

 

What's dose he mean by if the valve is closed completely ?

Edited by Vortec27
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whos mgt racing? I would seriously recommend getting it uprevd at abbey or Horsham.ive heard that no one else has managed to succesfully map the vq engine properly apart from uprev. or are you running a stand alone engine management?

 

Hi chubs mgt racing are a skyline specailst garage don't worry they know there stuff

Edited by Vortec27
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