smudgedon Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Are these a fairly simple diy fitment btw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Just a heads up for guys that are intending to go Forced Induction / Super Charging, from my research on the US forums it is highly recommended to use the OEM pulleys, not the light ones, hence I removed mine when I did the SC fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Are these a fairly simple diy fitment btw? On a manual it's super easy. Even on a trip it's not that hard just a lot more stuff to move. On a manual you can put it in 6th to crack the nut or stick a breaker bar on the floor and crank the engine once and that will break the bolt, unscrew tap the old pulley off and then replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smudgedon Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jell36 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I'm soooo tempted, is there any negative to having these fitted? e.g. increased noise, poorer fuel economy etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Negatives are that your car will be faster I actually noticed a slight increase in economy. I got about 1/2 to 1mpg more every tank. You don't need to uprev to see the benefits either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Why remove them for f.i? Are these not as strong as oem ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Why remove them for f.i? Are these not as strong as oem ones? No idea I doubt it's that. Makes no sense really. Although other kits are under driven so could reduce supercharger power. Ams isn't under driven. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Some quotes from the US forums: The conventional wisdom is that lightweight pullies and F/I are a no go. I ran a brand new Fluidampner pulley on my high HP builds (2 motors) and both ate main bearings within 1000 miles. I am now back on the stock pulley and will send the Fluidampner out to AAM to be rotational balance tested on a crank up to 8K rpm before re-installing on the car. If my choice was between stock, and a lightened pulley, I would choose stock every time. ...I am a living example of what will happen if you use a lightweight pulley on an FI'ed car...I had to change my crank. Stay away from that stuff when you have an FI car. ^ times that by 2. I have the bad crank sitting under my workbench to prove the damage they can do. I am running an ATI superdamper on my current setup Stick with stock. Spend your money on something else that benefits FI. Fluidamper or the ATI damper are both great units. There are torsional vibrations and harmonics that occur due to the forces applied during each combustion process in each cylinder. These devices are designed to absorb the vibrations. these vibrations can cause major fluctuations in valve timing and can ultimately cause a crank failure. I remember reading on this forum that about 3 people so far have blown motors which they attribute to the lightweight...unbalanced pulley that you get from UR. I don't know how true it is, but if the fluidamper is "balanced" and can minimize the chance of that happening, then its worth its weight. I went from stock to UR to fluidamper. They are balanced, but not dampened. If ur f/i, fluidampr is the way to go. I have a UR pulley installed on my car, but I don't deny the risks of harmonic vibration at the wrong frequencies causing catastrophic crank and bearing failure. I'm not advocating one way or the other in regards to the UR pulley and our engines. A Fluidampr or ATI pulley would eliminate the risk and is a very worthwhile investment, particularly for FI or engines that are raced. who cares about the wimpy power gains from running an aluminum one. it isn't worth any potential risk. if a solid metal pulley was adequate, why didn't our car come with one? surely it would be a lot easier to make a plain solid one than to put a dampener in it. They could be just legends, but my decision was to stay away from any potential problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smudgedon Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Only reason I can think is that with FI everything would be under greater strain, so a heavier pulley would be able to take the extra load better than a lightweight one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 (edited) more: Things like this can be debated to no end. The fact that there is even a reasonable doubt should tell most people that it may not be the best thing you could do to get a few HP. You can internally balance all you want but when you introduce vibrations anything can happen. I would hope that UR tested this product on a motor and found that they were within the limits that were set. But there are certain things that I would say you should not mix a under drive pulley with. Here are a few:Increase Rev limiter (or sustained periods at high rpms . . .track events)NitrousSuperchargerTurbochargerCams You know, it's funny. I'm in my garage right now, removing a UR UD pulley, and installing a Fluidampr. I liked the effect the UD pulley had when I was N/A, and while I normally can't feel any small HP/torue differences, the UD pulley did make a difference. However, now that I am F/I, I feel that the small (5-10) HP difference a UD pulley makes is just not worth the possible risk that an undampened UD pulley carries with it. So, I am installing the nicely dampened Fluidampr, and will make up the 5-10 HP difference by turning up the boost half a PSI! For NA or supercharger, a lightweight crank pulley will serve more of a complete benefit since the amount of boost for a given rpm isn't a variable, but the risk is still up to you if you want to risk your crankshaft over it I wouldn't run one. I am currently going through my motor and had to replace the crank due to 3 stress cracks. Machine shop said they had seen it many times before where the crank pulleys cause this. Said I was lucky it didn't take out my oil pump What, are these about a 2-5hp gain on a stock motor? Don't even worry about it on an FI'd Z or you may be looking at issues down the road and so on Edited May 28, 2013 by octet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Your post is very contradictory. First you say use stock but these guys are saying use a fluid damper which is a dampned pulley. But the oem pulley isn't dampned? Anyway nice thread crap. I'd still use them personally the us forums arent the best for reliable info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smudgedon Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Plus one of the guys there is quoting bhp gains.... these won't give anymore power output, will simply allow the horses to work better as there is less work to do 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Dblock, I know mate, you are God. There's no doubt in that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vlad Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I think Vortech recommend using OEM pulleys as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Dblock, I know mate, you are God. There's no doubt in that. Erm I don't see why you crying. You have your opinion I have mine. They are different big deal. Don't need to be pretty about it. Sorry to go off topic. Il ok one of the mods to clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac@TarmacSportz Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 No worries Dblock, it's becoming a regular trend on my threads at the moment.. I do have the Fluidampr balanced damper on the new site. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted May 31, 2013 Share Posted May 31, 2013 Hey how long will it be to get in, once order is placed? My belts have arrived im itching to mod! haha Thanks Saskhi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac@TarmacSportz Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Sorry, just seen this. Im going to order on Friday, should be no longer than two weeks. Anymore for anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hey sorry for the impatience haha but any updates? Saskhi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac@TarmacSportz Posted June 17, 2013 Author Share Posted June 17, 2013 Hi Yes I have pre-ordered 10 sets so I have some in stock Bad news is that they are out of stock at AMS so i'm just waiting on the nod to say they are ready Good news is I can sell them at the lower price for the GB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) Thanks Chris they have arrived! Very speedy delivery was stalking the dhl tracking and literally got to the door before the guy could ring the bell lol! Now to find someone in Cardiff to fit them! Saskhi Edited July 10, 2013 by SkylineV35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted July 10, 2013 Share Posted July 10, 2013 (edited) Wait till you put the oem one in your hand compared to that ams one! Also build quality on the ams is also nicer than oem. Edited July 10, 2013 by Dblock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkylineV35 Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 (edited) Wait till you put the oem one in your hand compared to that ams one! Also build quality on the ams is also nicer than oem. Yeh i held the oem crank pulley in hand and was surprised at the difference, but after fitting i went for a test drive on some A/ B roads, yes initial acceleration does feel slightly perkier but nothing my lightweight flywheel doesnt do already, I feel like iv lost some top end pull as i cant feel the pull higher up speeds but the biggest thing i notices was slowing down or decelerating eg for a roundabout, going down the gears feel like it doesnt aid at all in my braking, its almost like there is no engine breaking and i have to rely fully on the brakes, or maybe im driving faster but instead of starting my braking after the last sign of 3-2-1 i have to start slowing down at 2... Does anyone else notice this? or maybe lightweight flywheel and pulleys are bad combo? Anyway this is my initial thoughts, maybe i just have to adjust my driving style, as i tend to use super late braking into turns, but even the pull from 0-60 feels weaker, i cant feel it anymore, maybe theres less weight transfer so that actual punch factor is lower.. i dont know, just feels wrong somehow its like i cant feel the weight of my car through my butt hard to explain... =( Edited July 24, 2013 by SkylineV35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dblock Posted July 24, 2013 Share Posted July 24, 2013 Are the belts etc tight? That is odd. The only reason I think you don't feel it higher up Is because it pulls hard down low. Something with a lot of weight takes time to get going if you know what I mean. I also would imagine you was going faster as I found my engine braking the same or better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.