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No hot air


BladesGrant

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Hi guys, need a little help. I don't appear to be getting any warm air into the cabin at all. I also notice that the temperature would creep up but then shoot back down to normal temperature level after a short while. I have checked oil and coolant levels and all seems fine. I'm not sure if my fans are kicking in properly either. Any help or suggestions?

 

I have just let it warm up and it never the heat levels never went above normal but I couldn't see that my fans ever kicked. Not really sure now.

 

Cheers

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I have the same problem my temperature gauge stays bang on in the middle though, apparantely from reading it could be air in the system??i was getting concerned with mine yesterday as it was freezing and spent a good 10 mins blowing cold air in my face.....my mrs doesnt take kindly to this :headhurt:

and with winter round the corner need it sorted asap so any guides etc to help out would be great

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i am having a similar problem. Mine blows cold air when the car is stationary on idle but blows hot air when im driving. I've recently changed my rad for a much bigger one with leccy fans due to my stock ones not working and stock rad is tiny. 90% of people are saying its air in the system as 350's are an ABSOLUTE bitch to bleed. Could also be a stuck/sticking thermostat thats not letting the hto water circulate around the matrix

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i would say its the thermostat thats stuck shut and not allowing the water to flow round hence the temp fluxuation. Or your matrix is blocked

 

un do the bleed valve at the back on the heater hose and pump the hoses just to see if the water is circulating. I would bank on the stat playing up and for £23 quid it could be worth a punt

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It may depend on your cars age but I remember the Cougar's of a vintage used to suffer badly from this and mostly came down to scaling in the coolant pipes\matrix. It would take an absolute age to get the inside of car up to a decent temperature, and even then it was only ever temporary.

 

Procedure was to: Drain coolant, flushing through with water at v.low pressure, then running a load of de-scaler around the system and leave over night, flush through loads more in the morning and you would find all sorts of horrible cack in the bucket\drain that had been blocking up the system. From then on you'd be toasty and warm for another 100k miles or so.

 

Wouldn't recommend repeating that unless you know your de-scaler and pipes will get on well, but it is a driveway fix.

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not a silyl question as it took me ages to find it lol

 

if your standing looking at the engine its the back left hand side of the enigne against the fire wall. Its a philips head flat plastic plug in the heating hose. Becareful to use a big philips head as mines pretty much stuffed due to it being taken off so many times ( previous idiot who owned my car )

 

its located around here

 

31511079-2-440-engine-4.gif

 

and it looks like this

 

heater_tee_piece.jpg

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Just to help you guys out a bit here. :thumbs:

 

If the stat is jammed shut then you will have over temperature issues.

 

If the stat is jammed open then the coolant will take a long time to get up to normal operating temperature and you will therefore experience under temperature issues.

 

Whether the fan motors are kicking in or not is irrelevant if you are on the move.

 

Alex. :)

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So once I remove this what exactly should I be doing? Do I need to do anything with the hoses. Thanks for this as well really appreciate the help. :thumbs:

 

Watch and not lose the bleed screw as the pressure within the system may blow it out if you unscrew it to far. ;)

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Cheers Alex, I don't actually know what's wrong, I only know the symptoms I am experiencing which is no hot air and the temperature needle occasionally going hot and then shooting down to normal levels whether I am stationary or moving. Any recommendations welcomed. :thumbs:

 

So I shouldn't undo this valve totally??

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i wouldnt do it when its hot. I was just suggesting taking it off and pump the hoses to see if the water is circulating. No idea if it works but worth a go as it will take a matter of minates to do

 

 

Alex - if the thermostat is stuck shut would that not stop the water from circulating around there for not letting the hot water go through the heat matrix and not giving hot air ?

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could very well have just been a bit of trapped air and when u undid the bleed valve it escaped

 

wish mine would bloody go. bled it about 12 times in the last 3 days grrrrrr

 

 

edit...

 

how you get on with yours ?

 

mines all fixed thanks to a nice old school method of bleeding and taking my thermostat out. No more rock solid hoses, no more hot top and cold bottom and i have hot air. I also have a very very cool motor and no sign of getting hot

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right im going to do mine now, do i just unscrew a little bit and wait??do i have to top the radiator up after??

 

Can honestly say I don't have a clue what I have done but I now have hot air coming through and no issues with temp gauge at all. Just unscrewed bleed value and topped up radiator with some water. Seems to have done the trick though. Thanks guys. :thumbs:
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  • 4 weeks later...

Follow the link on driftworks and it will work. Basically you'll see water come out along with pockets of air and then just keep and eye on it until the water comes out with no bubbles, do it up keep the engine on and water topped up and every now and again very very carefully undo the bleed valve to see if any air comes

Out Oriya just water then happy days

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cool looks straight forward except emptying the overlow tank?? hows that done??

if i try the bleed valve method (removing the screw completely) first and add distilled water to it...does the car have to be running for me to do this or shut off??if that doesnt work then i will try the above method on driftworks link...

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