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Air in Cooling System.


chuds1

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Hi All

 

Need help again. I had a strange ticking noise at about 3000rpm from behind the speedo housing. It was pointed out to me that it was air in the cooling system causing the ticking noise. All i had to do was bleed the system and the noise would go away. :thumbs:

Sure enough i bled the system and the ticking noise went away. However only for about a day then the ticking came back. :thumbdown:

I've bled the system many times now, ticking goes away then comes back.

Does anyone have any ideas how i could be getting air into the cooling system?

I'm stumped :surrender:

The radiator cap seal looks perfect aswell as the air bleed plug seal.

 

Thanks for your Help

 

Chuds1

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I've been down this road for a while now. I have the service manual and in the section for bleeding the cooling system it states that if you here ticking noise at about 3000rpm there is air in the system. I can get the noise to go away but it comes back again. :bang:

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you need to seek out a real mechanic

 

air in the cooling system does not cause clicking in the cluster

 

air can get in via a bad headgasket (nearly impossible if the car is stock), or due to improper bleeding of the coolant system (it is not an easy car to bleed, and can take hours to do it properly)

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Thanks Adam for that more than helpful comment.

 

As you have so kindly informed me to look for a real mechanic maybe you should look for someone that can help you read English. The "clicking" as you put it IS NOT COMING FROM INSIDE THE CLUSTER........................................

 

MMMMM I can't quite remember where the engine is in the car.......................Any idea's Adam. :clap:

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Thanks Adam for that more than helpful comment.

 

As you have so kindly informed me to look for a real mechanic maybe you should look for someone that can help you read English. The "clicking" as you put it IS NOT COMING FROM INSIDE THE CLUSTER........................................

 

MMMMM I can't quite remember where the engine is in the car.......................Any idea's Adam. :clap:

 

No need to be quite so rude :thumbdown: Adam knows more about Z's than you are ever likely too.

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Thanks Adam for that more than helpful comment.

 

As you have so kindly informed me to look for a real mechanic maybe you should look for someone that can help you read English. The "clicking" as you put it IS NOT COMING FROM INSIDE THE CLUSTER........................................

 

MMMMM I can't quite remember where the engine is in the car.......................Any idea's Adam. :clap:

 

 

Thats extremely rude mate. Adam is just trying to help, if you want the forums help, may i suggest you dont insult or be rude to one of our valued traders :clap:

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I've been down this road for a while now. I have the service manual and in the section for bleeding the cooling system it states that if you here ticking noise at about 3000rpm there is air in the system. I can get the noise to go away but it comes back again. :bang:

 

Well I couldn't find this bit about ticking behind the speedo.

 

I did have a head gasket issue 8 months ago where exhaust gases were getting into the coolant system. So i check everything daily now. But then I'm not stock any more.

 

I don't think there are any coolant routes which go anywhere near the cluster.

 

Real mechanic time I think.. have to agree with Adam :thumbs:

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4. Fill radiator and reservoir tank to specified level.

Pour engine coolant through coolant filler neck slowly of

less than 2 (2-1/8US qt,1-3/4 lmp qt) a minute to allow

air in system to escape.

Use genuine Nissan Anti-freeze Coolant or equivalent

mixed with water (distilled or demineralized. Refer to MA-

11, "RECOMMENDED FLUIDS AND LUBRICANTS".

When engine coolant overflows air relief hole on heater hose,

install air relief plug with new O-ring.

5. Warm up engine to normal operating temperature with radiator

cap installed.

6. Run engine at 3,000 rpm for 10 seconds and return to idle

speed.

Repeat two or three times.

7. Stop engine and cool down to less than approximately 50°C (122°F).

Cool down using a fan to reduce the time.

If necessary, refill radiator up to filler neck with engine coolant.

8. Refill reservoir tank to MAX level line with engine coolant.

9. Repeat steps 4 through 7 two or more times with radiator cap installed until engine coolant level no longer

drops.

10. Check cooling system for leaks with engine running.

11. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000 r

pm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM.

Sound may be noticeable at heater unit.

12. Repeat step 11 three times.

13. If sound is heard, bleed air from cooling system by repeating step 4 through 7 until engine coolant level no

longer drops.

Clean excess engine coolant from engine.

FLUSHING COOLING SYSTEM

1. Fill radiator with water until water spills from the air relief hole, then close air relief plug. Fill radiator and

reservoir tank with water and reinstall radiator cap.

2. Run engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.

3. Rev engine two or three times under no-load.

4. Stop engine and wait until it cools down.

5. Drain the water from the system. Refer to CO-8, "DRAINING ENGINE COOLANT" .

6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 until clear water begins to drain from the radiator.

 

where does it say anything about clicking noises related to, in, or around the cluster, or cluster area?

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I assume that your car is not overheating or using water.

 

I would try bleeding again mate. It can be a very time consuming and frustrating issue getting all the air out the system.

 

If a proper bleed is carried out and air returns to the system and it is not overheating then perhaps flush out the radiator and heater matrix, both ways and at the same time check your stat.

 

If no issues are found there, then perhaps further tests using a cylinder leakage tester should be carried out to determine if you have the start of head gasket problem.

 

Alex.

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Adam

 

Step 11 on the list says if a noise is heard repeat the bleeding proccess. When i'm sitting in the car i think this is the noise i can hear coming from behind the dashboard at about 3000rpm.

 

I will try and bleed the system again. Thanks for your help.

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11. Warm up engine, and check for sound of engine coolant flow while running engine from idle up to 3,000 r

pm with heater temperature controller set at several position between COOL and WARM.

 

Water/coolant/liquid doesn't make a clicking noise...they merely are saying you may (and will actually, I've done this about 20 times on my own car alone) hear the sound of liquid moving, as the coolant fills the system, particularly the heater core and the larger diameter coolant line that runs around the back of the engine. In hearing this, it is telling you the system is not filled, and as such, you must fill/rebleed until it is filled. But it shouldn't have anything to do with any clicking sounds. Good luck

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Heres a reply i got from another Z member on my other post:

 

Greatings chuds1,

 

I performed a Google search for "350Z + clicking noise + 3500 rpm" and your post emerged.

 

I have '08 Nismo (#0778) that just turned over 4000mi. The solenoid clicking sound you describe from the left side of the dash is happening on my Z too. I thought it was related to the rev limiter I had set @ 4000 rpm's, but after resetting it to my tach red line, 7500 rpm's, the clicking noise continues to start at 3500-3800 rpm's and increases in speed the further I increase RMP's in each gear. I have an appt. next week with the local dealer to get the service rep to ride with me to try and debug the problem. You and one other person on the 350TECH.com forum have posted similar symptoms.

 

As soon as I find out the problem I will provide information back to you.

 

Regards,

 

EatMyDuZt

 

Hi chuds1,

 

I just wanted to follow up on the clicking noise from the dash. Took mine into the local Nissan stealership yesterday, one of the mechanics road with me, but before I even left the lot he had already diagnosed the problem from my description of the noise. He said he had another Z in with a similar issue. So instead of getting out on the road, I just sat there on the lot and rev'd the engine to > 3500 and the noise occurred. "Yep, he said, heater core needs back flushing". He then went on to explain that the noise is caused by a valve flapping and back flushing the heater core resolves the problem. Luckily mine is still under warranty so it didn't cost me anything, but everything is back to normal. I would have never expected that a noise such as that would be caused by the heater core. It sounded electrical to me!

 

Good luck on the resolution, keep us informed!

 

EMDuZt

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Hi Alex

 

Yes i've had the cooling system bled as you pointed out :thumbs: everythings great but then the ticking noise returns within about a day.

 

I don't know why i'm getting air in the cooling system :surrender:

 

Thanks again Alex

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Hi Alex

 

Yes i've had the cooling system bled as you pointed out :thumbs: everythings great but then the ticking noise returns within about a day.

 

I don't know why i'm getting air in the cooling system :surrender:

 

Thanks again Alex

 

 

But have you back flushed the radiator and the heater matrix (core) as I and the garage technician has suggested.

This has worked for me in the past when the flaps start to chatter.

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But have you back flushed the radiator and the heater matrix (core) as I and the garage technician has suggested.

This has worked for me in the past when the flaps start to chatter.

 

Its all the one system and all thats been done is bleeding to remove any air. What do you mean by back flushing? I thought that was the same as bleeding the system.

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But have you back flushed the radiator and the heater matrix (core) as I and the garage technician has suggested.

This has worked for me in the past when the flaps start to chatter.

 

Its all the one system and all thats been done is bleeding to remove any air. What do you mean by back flushing? I thought that was the same as bleeding the system.

 

 

No mate, normal flushing and back flushing is not the same as bleeding.

 

Bleeding is a procedure where you follow the previous instructions posted to remove air from the system.

 

Flushing is a procedure where you disconnect the appropriate hoses and force water through the system ie Block, Radiator, Heater Matrix, Hoses, Pipes to remove any potential gunge which may be blocking or restricting the coolant flow. Usually the pressure from a normal garden hose will suffice.

 

Once you have flushed and back flushed and the coolant flow is as it should be then further bleeding will be required.

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OK Alex, this has not been done.

 

I'll have it booked in to get the system flushed. I want be able to get it done for about a week so i'll keep you posted with the results.

 

Thanks again for your help. :thumbs:

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