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Missfire?


Madden

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Hello

 

Only had the car on the road for 2 weeks and it has started missfiring already :( not to mention 2 nasty scratchs after a full respray. Pretty pi**ed off with our 350z onwership already :angry:

 

Right my lady started complaining about the car stuttering last week. I went out for a drive and couldn't find a problem. Then it started to slighly missfire on idle.

 

I have managed to get the fault codes off the ecu by using the check lamp :) I have also done an ecu and throttle reset.

 

It came up with 2 fault codes. One being powersteering pressure switch and the other being multiable cylinder missfire. NO @*!# :lol:

 

I took the coil packs and plugs out. One plug was soaked in fuel so i thought must be a coil pack.. I moved the suspect coil pack to an easier position to unplug when the car was running. I unplugged it and there was a noticable difference in engine revs and note.

 

I am working my way through the workshop manual going through everything it tells me.

 

Anyone else had a problem so i can fix this thing a little quicker? :lol:

 

Any help would be better then no help

 

cheers

 

Jamie

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Well still no luck with the car.

 

Changed the plugs and even plugged the car into a consult 2. Found everything to be in order. Reset the ecu and let it relearn the car again but still missing. Drives fine and has good power but pops on idle?

 

Any help guys?

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Dodgy injector? Would account for the masses of fuel by one plug at any rate, and if there's too much fuel then it wouldn't fire correctly.

 

Failing that, if it's a multiple misfire then I'd be tempted to check the ground connections. I've had this on a previous car where it threw all kinds of misfire codes at me, and whilst it was on a slightly more modified project to this day I'm still 95% sure it was an earth issue.

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Yea that was what i was thinking about the injectors mate. The thing is they are all pulsing exactly the same as each other. After i replaced the plugs the fouling stop happening.

 

I have checked the coil pack looms for a good earths and all is fine. What earth should i check mate? Or just all of them?

 

Its a strange one that is really annoying me now. Everything is working as it should but still missfiring??????????

 

Going to try some injector cleaner to see if that sorts it but i doubt it will. :rant:

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Yea that was what i was thinking about the injectors mate. The thing is they are all pulsing exactly the same as each other. After i replaced the plugs the fouling stop happening.

 

I have checked the coil pack looms for a good earths and all is fine. What earth should i check mate? Or just all of them?

 

Its a strange one that is really annoying me now. Everything is working as it should but still missfiring??????????

 

Going to try some injector cleaner to see if that sorts it but i doubt it will. :rant:

 

Rip out the VQ and stick in an RB26...... I bet you know you're way round one of them! ;)

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Yea that was what i was thinking about the injectors mate. The thing is they are all pulsing exactly the same as each other. After i replaced the plugs the fouling stop happening.

 

I have checked the coil pack looms for a good earths and all is fine. What earth should i check mate? Or just all of them?

 

Its a strange one that is really annoying me now. Everything is working as it should but still missfiring??????????

 

Going to try some injector cleaner to see if that sorts it but i doubt it will. :rant:

Hmmm, maybe you've got two different issues here then. If the fouling stopped after changing the plugs then you must've had a duff plug, as you say you've swapped all the coil packs round to prove they're all fine. If that's the case, I wonder if there's something electrical going on as well? In all honesty I'm not sure where the earth connections are on the Zed, but the info must be out there on the interweb somewhere! Might be worth running a new earth as well just to see if that does change anything.

 

Do you know which cylinder is misfiring? Is it still all of them randomly?

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Cheers for all the help guys :teeth:

 

Yea its a weird one. The warning lamp came on the other day as it started to missfire again. Missis took it to work and no missfires and the light has turned off :lol:

 

I cant pin it down to one cyclinder which is annoying. I might just borrow a set of good working coils and go from there. As it is bringing up multi cyclinder missfire and not say 1 or 6 of for example i thought that it couldnt be a coil pack?

 

Yea i have a spare rb26 at the moment now that would be alot of fun through the rear wheels :lol:

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Cheers for all the help guys :teeth:

 

Yea its a weird one. The warning lamp came on the other day as it started to missfire again. Missis took it to work and no missfires and the light has turned off :lol:

 

I cant pin it down to one cyclinder which is annoying. I might just borrow a set of good working coils and go from there. As it is bringing up multi cyclinder missfire and not say 1 or 6 of for example i thought that it couldnt be a coil pack?

 

Yea i have a spare rb26 at the moment now that would be alot of fun through the rear wheels :lol:

 

have you done any mods to the car?

 

another cause of random misfires can actually be a leak in the plenum

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No the car is bone standard and only covered 16000 miles. Tad strange as everything came up sweet using the consult 2.

 

Got to try a set of coils as the next step. It seem to be an intermitant fualt. All earth are fine a cleaned to make sure.

 

Anyone ever had the 0300 code before and know what the fix was?

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No the car is bone standard and only covered 16000 miles. Tad strange as everything came up sweet using the consult 2.

 

Got to try a set of coils as the next step. It seem to be an intermitant fualt. All earth are fine a cleaned to make sure.

 

Anyone ever had the 0300 code before and know what the fix was?

 

0300 is the random misfire code.

 

It means that your engine is misfiring, but that the problem is not isolated to one or two cylinders, it is jumping around in a random way from one cylinder to another.

 

A random misfire code usually means the air/fuel ratio is running lean but the cause might be anything from a hard to find vacuum leak to weak coil packs.

 

If you require a set of preowned coil packs then I have loads.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Alex.

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Cheers for the help guys.

 

Is an annoying one to find. Especially when everything reports back fine. The biggest issue is it only really happend on idle. When you driving it nothing :headhurt:

 

All cylinders have a spark so it has to be an air leak of some kind. The pvc valve on the rocker cover does make some nosie but when you spray carb cleaner onto it no air leaks??

 

Really pissing me off as i have only had the car 2 weeks and it has had too real bad scratches apear on a full repspray car. It was meant to be in the body shop last week to get it all sorted and then it starts missfiring. Peice of crap car i tell you :angry:

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Cheers for the help guys.

 

Is an annoying one to find. Especially when everything reports back fine. The biggest issue is it only really happend on idle. When you driving it nothing :headhurt:

 

All cylinders have a spark so it has to be an air leak of some kind. The pvc valve on the rocker cover does make some nosie but when you spray carb cleaner onto it no air leaks??

 

Really pissing me off as i have only had the car 2 weeks and it has had too real bad scratches apear on a full repspray car. It was meant to be in the body shop last week to get it all sorted and then it starts missfiring. Peice of crap car i tell you :angry:

 

check the output of the alternator

 

I had a random misfire issue on my own car back in the fall that only happened at idle. To the point where the car literally would backfire slightly and feel as if it were running on 5 cylinders. Turned out my alternator bracket had loosened significantly, probably due to the high revs I run, and as a result the belt was not as tight as it should have been, causing a weak charge at idle. In the upper revs it was fine, and the belt never made any noises. Finally found it, and retorqued to spec using some thread lock, and never had an issue again

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Oh good man

 

Sounds exactly what my car is doing and to tell you the truth it has only happened since my ladt sat on the rev limiter as i was showing here the shift light. :lol:

 

So i will check that this evening mate and report back. Fingers crossed :thumbs:

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Well just been out there to check the alternator and all is fine. I did notice that the battery terminal where lose though :lol: They are all tight now.

 

Thought i would reset the codes and it came up with 1283 which isnt in the manual. Done a google search it took me to the USA and the twin turbo boys seem to get it all the time. Something to do with a lean bank but no deffinition of what is exactly is?

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Just reset the ecu again and went for a drive. Its holding back abit and then it takes off again. :rant:

 

I found what 1283 mean = P1283 is a code for lean condition A/F sensor 1 bank 2.

 

1283 often kicks in with 0300. :thumbs:

 

Gota be aware of the red herrings whilst dealing with codes. ;)

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I put new plugs in mine last week when it was serviced. Since then, I have noticed a slight irregularity rather than a full-blown misfire at idle, which disappears when the revs rise.

 

Does anyone know if you should have to reset the ECU after new plugs are installed?

 

I was thinking about trying the idle air volume learning procedure to cure this - is that likely to work?

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I put new plugs in mine last week when it was serviced. Since then, I have noticed a slight irregularity rather than a full-blown misfire at idle, which disappears when the revs rise.

 

Does anyone know if you should have to reset the ECU after new plugs are installed?

 

I was thinking about trying the idle air volume learning procedure to cure this - is that likely to work?

 

 

 

no need to reset the ecu when fitting plugs

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I put new plugs in mine last week when it was serviced. Since then, I have noticed a slight irregularity rather than a full-blown misfire at idle, which disappears when the revs rise.

 

Does anyone know if you should have to reset the ECU after new plugs are installed?

 

I was thinking about trying the idle air volume learning procedure to cure this - is that likely to work?

 

 

Hi Jim,

 

As Adam states no need to reset ECU.

 

If fault only started after plug replacement I would tend to be looking towards the new plugs or coil packs.

Of course it may be only coincidence and maybe some thing completely different.

Have a look at current stored fault codes.

 

Alex.

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I put new plugs in mine last week when it was serviced. Since then, I have noticed a slight irregularity rather than a full-blown misfire at idle, which disappears when the revs rise.

 

Does anyone know if you should have to reset the ECU after new plugs are installed?

 

I was thinking about trying the idle air volume learning procedure to cure this - is that likely to work?

 

 

Hi Jim,

 

As Adam states no need to reset ECU.

 

If fault only started after plug replacement I would tend to be looking towards the new plugs or coil packs.

Of course it may be only coincidence and maybe some thing completely different.

Have a look at current stored fault codes.

 

Alex.

 

Thanks to you both for replies. How do I check the codes?

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Assuming you actually have the CEL (Check Engine Light) lit on your instrument display, then you either need an OBDII reader or you can use the ECU reset procedure to get the codes off. If it were me I'd spend a few quid on a code reader either via eBay or get the RAC one from Argos rather than use the ECU reset, but there's no technical reason behind that: I'm just lazy and would rather do things the simple way! :D

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Assuming you actually have the CEL (Check Engine Light) lit on your instrument display, then you either need an OBDII reader or you can use the ECU reset procedure to get the codes off. If it were me I'd spend a few quid on a code reader either via eBay or get the RAC one from Argos rather than use the ECU reset,

 

I might just do that - been thinking about it for a while anyway. Is it easy to find the socket to plug it in?

 

It's a JDM import - is that a problem, or do they conform to the OBDII standard?

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Assuming you actually have the CEL (Check Engine Light) lit on your instrument display, then you either need an OBDII reader or you can use the ECU reset procedure to get the codes off. If it were me I'd spend a few quid on a code reader either via eBay or get the RAC one from Argos rather than use the ECU reset,

 

I might just do that - been thinking about it for a while anyway. Is it easy to find the socket to plug it in?

 

Under the dash, right hand side mate, you can't miss it.

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