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Lost Drive Power


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Hi guys,

 

Firstly, I'm sorry if there's already a thread about this, I couldn't find one matching my symptoms after searching for a few hours.

 

I picked my (54) Fair lady Z up in August, I haven't experienced any issues with it until now.

 

I was driving home from the shop last night, came up to a roundabout, naturally slowed down, went around some one on a pedal bike as I came off the around about (to give an idea of how slow I was actually going)

 

As I tried to pull off again, slip light came on, and I lost any sort of power to the rear wheels. I came to a stop, and I couldn't pull off again.

 

At the time, I could go into gear and it would bite (weakly and I could crawl forward (& backwards in reverse) but I didn't have enough power to even get up a very small incline, the while time the slip light kept blinking while trying to accelerate. (Thankfully I was around the corner from home and my mate towed me back)

 

This morning I went out to take a look, and the same thing today (obviously, its broken) I can go into gear, but there's no power transmitted to the wheels, it makes a weird squeek noise when it tires to pull away. The same thing happens whether the traction control is on or off (bar the slip light flashing if TCS is on) I have no other lights on the dashboard.

 

I have no idea what could be wrong and don't know where to start looking really. I was wondering if I could tap into you guys knowledge.  Any feedback or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/UbNdsqoseSeJrjSCA

 

(I have a video of it but it won't let me add it to the thread, hopefully this link will let you see it)

Edited by g1dm4n
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What mileage you on? and have you had a clutch/ slave replaced at all? without doing online diagnostics could stand a chance your clutch slave has imploded or maybe the clutch itself 

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I'm on 86ishK but it's a mix of miles and km 

I haven't had one replaced no, I don't think the previous owner had it done either but they didn't have the car too long. 

You think it's clutch related? I can go into gear with no problem tho, no crunching or grinding, it's just a wiring noise coming from the rear of the car once I try to apply power

 

 

 

Edited by g1dm4n
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Get someone to have a look underneath to check if the prop shaft or drive shafts are turning when you are releasing the clutch.

Be careful and not run them over: :scare:

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They were spinning last night, as I was able to reverse in to a parking space after being towed home (but it was as if I was just on the bite, and revs wouldn't do anything)

this morning the same thing, it would bite but as soon as it met any resistance like a dropped curb it wouldn't move 

 

I will double check later tho that the prop shaft is still spinning and get back to you

 

My gut feeling is it's diff related, but I hope I'm wrong

 

There were no crunches or nasty noise's when I lost the power

Edited by g1dm4n
Grammar error
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If you got some stands, get the arse off the ground and try the same. May help pin point the noise too. Added bonus, you won't crush whoever is under there looking just in case it does decide it can move again :) 

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Yeah I'll get it up next time I get chance (not long moved so haven't got my axle stands or jack with atm. But I'll do these checks when I next can, 

Thanks for all your comments so far, I'll keep you posted

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4 hours ago, g1dm4n said:

 

 

My gut feeling is it's diff related, but I hope I'm wrong

 

 

Diff will be cheaper to fix than clutch.

 

Low mileage diffs are in stock if required.

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8 hours ago, g1dm4n said:

I'm on 86ishK but it's a mix of miles and km 

I haven't had one replaced no, I don't think the previous owner had it done either but they didn't have the car too long. 

You think it's clutch related? I can go into gear with no problem tho, no crunching or grinding, it's just a wiring noise coming from the rear of the car once I try to apply power

 

 

 

Could be as Alex says a diff problem, know if you’ve had the oil changed and if it has been changed is it the correct vlsd oil? usually intervals are 40k I believe or atleast that’s what I change mine at, it was just the fact you mentioned the biting point was weak, could be wrong but just check everything over, clutch slave for leaks, drive shaft, and then depends how practical you are, would be worth dropping diff oil after crossing out the other points, clutch will be hard to rock off but has the biting point changed? if so again check slave cylinder- if slave is okay? Could be clutch if it’s not replace slave then check again, the fact a drop curb is an issue sounds like clutch to me but that’s just an idea 

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Thanks guys really appreciate the suggestions!

some good points to start, hopefully I'll have a jack and stands by the weekend so will try and get amongst it and see what it could be

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59 minutes ago, g1dm4n said:

Thanks guys really appreciate the suggestions!

some good points to start, hopefully I'll have a jack and stands by the weekend so will try and get amongst it and see what it could be

Best to check the drive issues with the rear wheels on the ground, or on a flat bed ramp.

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Yeah the prop shaft is spinning, so it has to be something diff related surely. If it was electrical and a sensor fail I'd have EML on wouldn't I, so the fact I don't have any lights other than slip on or the TCS if I turn it off (not at the same time) it makes me think it's a mechanical diff issue? I herd 350 diffs arent the best,( 350 drifters normally weld them regardless right, but I'd rather LSD to drive roads with ) but do they really just go that easily?

 

 

Azurez33, you mentioned draining out the diff oil, a diff oil change surely wouldn't fix the issue would it?? Or is it more so to see if there are metal fragments in it to show the diff teeth have had it? 

 

Reckon it's gonna have to be a new diff? 

Might be heading your way zmanalez

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18 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

Are the drive shafts turning?

Well checked on the ground like suggested, the prop shaft was spinning but the drive shafts were not

Edited by g1dm4n
Phone played up so it was a mess of a response before
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So, drive into the diff and no drive out.

 

Time to pull and strip the diff I am afraid.

 

Is your diff a VLSD?

 

Fully working preowned diffs are in stock and good to go same/next day.

 

Just drop me a PM if I can help you further with this.

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20 hours ago, g1dm4n said:

Yeah the prop shaft is spinning, so it has to be something diff related surely. If it was electrical and a sensor fail I'd have EML on wouldn't I, so the fact I don't have any lights other than slip on or the TCS if I turn it off (not at the same time) it makes me think it's a mechanical diff issue? I herd 350 diffs arent the best,( 350 drifters normally weld them regardless right, but I'd rather LSD to drive roads with ) but do they really just go that easily?

 

 

Azurez33, you mentioned draining out the diff oil, a diff oil change surely wouldn't fix the issue would it?? Or is it more so to see if there are metal fragments in it to show the diff teeth have had it? 

 

Reckon it's gonna have to be a new diff? 

Might be heading your way zmanalez

Yeah just to see if there’s metal flakes/ teeth in the oil mate, sounds like you’re going the right route if the props turning must be further done the driveline

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I had the car up on the air yesterday, and I have so great new for me!

Im 95% sure the diff  okay, and I think it's just the rear left outer CV that has broken;

 

When the rear wheels are off the ground and it's in gear,

Prop shaft spins 

Right axle and wheel spins

left axle spins

Left wheel does not

And a squeeking/rubbing noise comes from the CV boot.

 

This makes alot of sense, because the diff wasnt put under and strain or abuse when I lost power. Also makes sense because one wheel won't spin, so as far as the car is aware wheel speed is zero on one wheel. Hence the slip light. I was gonna replace the CV joint but it's more/as expensive as a whole second hand axle so... New axle it is 👍

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As said previously this has got to be checked with both rear wheels on the deck, which you said that you did and that the drive shafts were not turning.

Remember that you have a VLSD which is obviously confusing you.

Fully working preowned drive shafts are in stock if required and good to go same/next day.

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On 22/11/2021 at 15:16, g1dm4n said:

So I had the car up on the air yesterday, and I have so great new for me!

Im 95% sure the diff  okay, and I think it's just the rear left outer CV that has broken;

 

When the rear wheels are off the ground and it's in gear,

Prop shaft spins 

Right axle and wheel spins

left axle spins

Left wheel does not

And a squeeking/rubbing noise comes from the CV boot.

 

This makes alot of sense, because the diff wasnt put under and strain or abuse when I lost power. Also makes sense because one wheel won't spin, so as far as the car is aware wheel speed is zero on one wheel. Hence the slip light. I was gonna replace the CV joint but it's more/as expensive as a whole second hand axle so... New axle it is 👍

With if off the floor it wouldn't see any real load, so even totally knackered there'd probably be enough to push one or more wheels around.

As @ZMANALEX said, if you've done the same thing with the wheels on the floor and the prop spins but you get no drive, it must be the diff. 

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