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veeg33

Clutch only returning half way, help please

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Changed clutch and flywheel back in January this year, no issues up to today. Been advised that the clutch master cylinder does not need replacing on DE hence only change what's recommended when I did the clu ch. Clutch is only returning half way up =( I need to manually return it using my foot, it just popped back up with some force. Saw a video on YouTube for a quick fix (remove pin, re-adjust the bolt, Bob's your uncle and it's s sorted) however I'm struggling to get under to access this. Any tips to try the adjustment bolt first before I take it to specialist. 

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Did you change the slave cylinder at the same time as the clutch/flywheel? 

They're prone to failing and cause the pedal to stick down. 

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17 minutes ago, Jack94 said:

Did you change the slave cylinder at the same time as the clutch/flywheel? 

They're prone to failing and cause the pedal to stick down. 

Been advised that this is not necessary hence I didn't change it. Just the clutch, flywheel and pivot bolt. 

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Change the slave and fluid and fit a braided line and bleed all the air out the hydraulic system without letting the master reservoir run dry.

 

Parts cost less than £80.00 and takes about 30 mins.

 

Best with 3 peeps for the bleed, 1 on the pedal 1 on the slave and 1 on the reservoir.

 

Adjusting the pedal may help however you are only glossing over the cracks.

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1 hour ago, veeg33 said:

Been advised that this is not necessary

 

I'd be wary taking advice from whoever told you that in the future, they obviously don't know what they're on about. 

 

They're prone to failing and like Alex has said, the parts don't cost much so it makes total sense replacing them whilst it's all apart.

Edited by Jack94
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When bleeding follow the procedure in the factory service manual exactly.

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4 minutes ago, Jack94 said:

 

I'd be wary taking advice from whoever told you that in the future, they obviously don't know what they're on about. 

 

They're prone to failing and like Alex has said, the parts don't cost much so it makes total sense replacing them whilst it's all apart.

My source is very reliable and as Alex said, it will only take 30mins to do hence my source is spot on that is isn't necessary to change the slave when I change the clutch and flywheel. 

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4 minutes ago, veeg33 said:

My source is very reliable and as Alex said, it will only take 30mins to do hence my source is spot on that is isn't necessary to change the slave when I change the clutch and flywheel. 

 

You're right it's not absolutely necessary but it's advisable, to save having to mess around with it again a few months down the line like you're now finding out :blush:

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11 minutes ago, Jack94 said:

 

You're right it's not absolutely necessary but it's advisable, to save having to mess around with it again a few months down the line like you're now finding out :blush:

Agreed....after 4 months B) Tempted to do it myself, seems easy to change but the bleeding seems to be the hardest bit. 

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2 hours ago, ZMANALEX said:

Change the slave and fluid and fit a braided line and bleed all the air out the hydraulic system without letting the master reservoir run dry.

 

Parts cost less than £80.00 and takes about 30 mins.

 

Best with 3 peeps for the bleed, 1 on the pedal 1 on the slave and 1 on the reservoir.

 

Adjusting the pedal may help however you are only glossing over the cracks.

I supposed any good aftermarket will do? Tarmac sells stoptech slave for £36 and H-dev selling Dorman's + full kit for £85. Obviously don't go for ebay specials?? 

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Had this common problem with mine a couple of years ago. New genuine slave, braided clutch line and high temp fluid supplied and fitted by the cougar store and it’s been all good since. I bet Tarmac Sportz could sort you out too if it’s closer for you veeg. :thumbs:

Edited by SHEZZA
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9 hours ago, SHEZZA said:

Had this common problem with mine a couple of years ago. New genuine slave, braided clutch line and high temp fluid supplied and fitted by the cougar store and it’s been all good since. I bet Tarmac Sportz could sort you out too if it’s closer for you veeg. :thumbs:

Closest specialist to me is Manchester. Will give them a ring and see if I can get a slot soon. Clutch went back to normal this morning and I suspect the hot weather yesterday is partly to blame for this?? Stoptech seems to be a good aftermarket slave to buy.

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I’ve had before, replaced the throw out bearing (was going bad), machines the flywheel, changed clutch, changed master and slave, and new fluid and new line but I’m still running into the same problem with the clutch sticking halfway down and have to use strength just to get it into gear. Any suggestions? It’s a 2005 350z

Edited by P7ICE

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Providing that all the parts that you have replaced/machined are good then all it will require is a proper bleed.

 

You simply have air in the hydraulic system.

 

You can also adjust the pedal, however that is not the root cause.

 

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