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Airbag removal problem


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Bought a funky new steering wheel, watched a few youtube videos, seems simple enough. What no one tells you is the head on the T30 security bolts is made from cheese and Nissan use space station grade threadlock. So after rounding off the star thread I tried to hammer a socket onto the head which resulted in the whole bolt and whatever its attached to bending inwards so the head is now not facing the hole. Pic below hopefully shows what i mean. 


Any ideas people, i have removed the other side bolt after chewing that one up as well so its just this holding the airbag assembly in. 



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ah right, so it may be possible to just "Dremel" the whole lug off. (this will cut some of the plastic trim but its getting replaced anyway with the new boss) Gonna pop to my local garage in morning and see if they can sort it.

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I have been search and reading a lot about this lately. Seems most people just drill the head off of the screw. 

Steering wheel boss won't replace the scowling and trim unless you are going stripped out look.


I am just replacing a refurb steering wheel as I don't want the hassle at mot time explaining about air bag removed or changing back for it.

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Right, i only took a few pics as i was getting increasingly frustrated with the wheel and then the new boss, so went to my local garage i use and the only option was to start cutting the plastics behind the wheel (still part of the wheel assembly) to gain access to the bolt and pull it back straight. 



we then tried hammering a socket over but it was just bending the lug before it got enough purchase even with wedging tools behind it so we cut away a large section of the plastic and got out the angle grinder. This did work! Cut a slit in the head with the disc then got a big flathead screwdriver and released the bolt, i thought great thats it sorted but oh no, the momo boss had other ideas. The cutouts in the boss for the horn/steering wheel control connector and the little round bobble (not sure what it is, something to do with cancelling turn signals) were both in the wrong place and did not line up. 



so the garage had to drill a new hole for the bobble and i unscrewed the plastic housing for all the controls so you were left with just the pin connections as above that did fit through the cutout in ghe boss. As we would just be using the horn we only needed to connect a new wire to the third pin and attach to new wheel horn. 



We then realised we needed a new wire making up for the earth which we attached behind one of the 6 hex bolt screws holding the new wheel in place. I also attached the restrictor for the airbag connection that came with the boss. Now mine is a HR and online it says you need 2 airbag restrictor but so i bought an extra one as the boss only came with one but when we got the airbag off eventually it only had one connection so maybe different countries had 2 connections?

Anyway, got all that done, went for a quick spin and soon realised the mark on the centre spline which should indicate straight on and where to position your wheel was one spline to the right so my new wheel was pointing a few degrees right when going straight, no good when you have OCD so had to take ghe wheel off and re-attach one spline anti clockwise from the mark. All is now good (apart from one butchered oem steering wheel)

finished pic below (excluding horn sticker which i have now added) looks much better. The wheel is an OMP superleggero, 350mm dia as opposed to the 370mm stock wheel and hell of a lot lighter. 



The moral of the story, take extra extra care with the security torx bolts and dont buy a momo boss or you will end up taking 4hrs to do a 30 minute job. 

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  • 4 years later...

Glad I found this thread as I've had a similar problem. Gone to swap out the tan wheel for OEM black one and found that one of the T30 tamper-proof Torx bolts was already stripped (previous owner) so no hope of getting it out the conventional way. I did get it done this way.


1. Sprayed the bolt with WD40 Specialist Fast Release Penetrant, then waited 10 mins.

2. Used a handheld Dremel type tool (Draper brand I think) with a small cutting disk and created a groove across the centre of the bolt head.

3. Then used a sturdy flat head screwdriver with spanner block for added leverage to release. Needed care and the right amount of pressure but once the 1st 1/4 turn was done it was easy.

4. Fitted new wheel with new bolts - this should be standard practice anyway as the OEM nissan bolts are soft as putty so don't seem to last being torqued / untorqued multiple times.


I hope this helps someone else.

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