TheRedEye

Hi I've experienced and overheating issue for the first time, and have read through the various posts on this topic - I just want to double check my understanding is correct before committing to further action. Any guidance will be welcome. '54 plate 350z GT, always well serviced and I don't drive it hard. On a 20min urban journey the Mishimoto fans kicked in after just 5 mins (not running A/C) and the temp gauge rose to over the horizontal for the first time in my 3 years with the car. I put the heater fans on full blast in the cabin and they blew hot. I kept the car moving at low revs scooping in loads of cold air through the rad. The needle would rise further when in traffic but not into the red. I know the car and know this is not normal, especially given the outside air temp was in single figures. Once stopped I checked the following: 1 - Top hose was very hot 2 - Bottom hose was cold at the rad end and warm next to the thermostat 3 - No coolant leaks 4 - Coolant reserve tank was about 1 inch above the top fill line Once the car was cold I checked 1 - Coolant level was bang on top fill line (I check this and all fluids monthly anyway) 2 - Coolant had no sign of oil 3 - Oil had no sign of water (no cottage cheese) 4 - Rad top filler was full with coolant 5 - Fans do turn I think my next steps therefore are. 1. Coolant bleed in case there is an air lock. 2. Thermostat replacement if the bleed has no affect. Does that sound right or is there something else I should check before starting work? Many thanks

Glad I found this thread as I've had a similar problem. Gone to swap out the tan wheel for OEM black one and found that one of the T30 tamper-proof Torx bolts was already stripped (previous owner) so no hope of getting it out the conventional way. I did get it done this way. 1. Sprayed the bolt with WD40 Specialist Fast Release Penetrant, then waited 10 mins. 2. Used a handheld Dremel type tool (Draper brand I think) with a small cutting disk and created a groove across the centre of the bolt head. 3. Then used a sturdy flat head screwdriver with spanner block for added leverage to release. Needed care and the right amount of pressure but once the 1st 1/4 turn was done it was easy. 4. Fitted new wheel with new bolts - this should be standard practice anyway as the OEM nissan bolts are soft as putty so don't seem to last being torqued / untorqued multiple times. I hope this helps someone else.

Spot on! £5 inc p&p?? 🤪 PM me for cost / postage details if that's ok Alex. Thanks

Hi. Yes, non sat nav, as per the photo. I only need the top lid but understand they will probably come as a unit. Thanks

Hi. Sorry for the slow reply, I've been away. It's a UK RHD coupe 54 plate. Since I've had it there has been no sat nav, just an aftermarket double din touchscreen stereo. Like the unit in the photo, the cubby release button in the type you push in, not the one you push down. Does that help? Thanks

Hi again. How did I know you'd come up trumps for the left upper strut cover!? The final piece of the jigsaw for me will also be the cover for the front centre cubby. Mine is scratched to hell but I've had no luck sourcing a half decent one for a '54 plate pre-facelift model. If you have one can you quote me for both parts please? Thanks

Hi. I'm just after the upper left trim panel for the rear strut bar cover (as highlighted below). I've searched fleabay and there are only right hand side ones or one that is over-priced when you take into consideration they want £10 postage! Can anyone help? It does need to be in good unscratched condition as I'm preparing to take the car to shows. Thanks

gutted - I've put lots of effort in getting these low mileage seats looking mint. I'm not a quitter so I'm going to persevere. I'll have the car loom plugs in a few days, and see if there is a way I can replace my current plugs with these to get the basics working - airbags, seatbelt, and power movement for the passenger seats. I'm not bothered about the heated seats (never used it anyway) or any of the other features the roadster seats have. I'm sure there will be some wiring diagrams knocking about I can use to start with.

Hi I've just done a seat swap, putting black leather heated seats from an 08 convertible into a 05 coupe which had tan leather heated seats. The seats went in fine (same mountings) and the power connector for the driver seat was a match. However, the airbag connectors for both seats are different (smaller block on the seat loom), and so is the power connector for the passenger seat (much larger block on the seat loom). I noticed that the passenger seat has no manual controls for reclining, it's all powered which would explain the need for a larger block. Does anyone know if there is a conversion kit / adaptors, or any way I can get these matching and connected? I have searched the forum but can't find an answer. If you can help that would be great.

I've done a bit of research on this over the last few weeks. The government website indicates that 350z and 370z are compatible although I would like some manufacturer confirmation of this! I'm not ever sticking anything less than 97 in my Z regardless. The main issue is that the new fuel eats certain rubber and plastics so those with modified cars will need to check their components will be ok. There is also noise that it's a pain for petrol stations to stock old (E5) and new variants (E10) as once a tank and pump has moved to the new one it can't run the old. Suggestions are that many will simply switch to the new fuel only leaving us with far fewer places to fill up a year or so down the line.

Hi. Following up on this old thread - I need some help please. I have a pre-facelift 54 plate 350z with old style side indicator bulbs (not LED). I bought a set of black closed units (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224182057737) before I realised mine were not LED. Different connectors and I believe I would need to do a few electrical mods to make these work - unless anyone knows differently An alternative route appears to buy smoked lenses and a suitable canbus error free LED bulb. Does anyone know if this would be a straight swap and what fitment LED bulb would mean I could use the same bulb holder to mount inside the lenses? It seems it should be so easy but there are so many options I guess it would be easy to get it wrong. Many thanks

Just wanted to provide an update as it's some 8 months since I reconditioned the tan seats. They still look fantastic! Car us used about twice weekly for long and short journeys and the leather has held up brilliantly - I've not had to re-touch once. Pretty impressed with that especially considering we've had a mix of snow and baking hot weather that I thought would put the finish to the test.

OK that's great, I wasn't expecting that. Any idea where to get hold of an new OEM one? They seems to be hard to come by. All I can find are the aluminium ones at around £200 a go

Hi I've done some research but drawing a blank on this. My 54 plate 350z has a Nismo N2 front bumper installed like this but without the canards (https://www.meduza.co.uk/nissan-350z-z33-nismo-n2-style-front-bumper-with-canards/). However there is no front undertray and I'm sure a stock one won't fit. I'm really struggling to find out where I can source one that will, plastic will do - as long as it will fit I don't care! Anyone out there have any clues? Thanks

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Scratch-Doctor-Leather-Colourant-Recolour/dp/B009JC4AD8 this is the scratch doctor all in one stuff I've used on a few cars. lots of colours to pick from and you get 2 bottles for about £7. it has lasted well on my other projects. here's a car seat sofa I build for my son from a 100k miles Mazda seat. it ended up looking new

so then next job on my list was to bring some life back into the tan leather seats on my 54 plate 350z. While not destroyed they were tired, with creases, fades, surface cracks and discolouration. I've done other leather seats before. here's what I did. 1. vacuum all over 2. clean with Autoglym leather cleaner using a brush for leather shoes. this lifted shed loads of dirt and grime . 3. wipe down with damp chamois. 4. dry with paper towel 5. multiple thin layers of Scratch Doctor leather all in one (tan). applied with small pore sponge and dried with hairdryer on low heat. 6. 24h later, treated with leather balm. I'm really happy with the results, 16 year old seats that have done 140k miles.

here you go...

I had the same issue with my lights, cloudy and scratched. tried the toothpaste trick but tbh it just cleaned them up (and made them smell minty!). but then tried a gentle rub with some Poorboys swirl remover medium abrasive using a sponge applicator. finished off with super resin polish. while not perfect there is a huge improvement for 5 minutes work.

I like this. mine has a kind of flocked finish which has not aged well and is cracking off. was looking for a simple and clean finish I can do myself.

hi. just joined and picked up my first Z, a 54 plate. I'm an ex amateur racing driver (hot hatches) and driving my slightly modded Z brings back happy memories. I'll be making changes to the interior to make it tasteful again so will no doubt be scouring the message boards for some sound advice!