wilo Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 okay regarding the crash I had when i curbed the rota alloy and split the braided fron brake hose ..... just gone to move the car in preparation for work to be done and when i pressed clutch pedal to select first gear the pedal dropped and wont return by its self. is this because the clutch and brake systems are linked and because the spilt hose is p1ssing out fluid? i looked at the two reservoirs and the large one is just under max but the smaller one is empty ..will get some pics loaded inna sec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 They are separate, so probably just a coincidence. It is probably a clutch slave failure so get underneath and find the leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Z paradise Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 As stated by ZMANALEX clutch slave cylinder is good possibility....uuuuggghhhh!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 ahh damn so the bust brake hose has nothing to do with the clutch pedal ? how do i fix the problem lads? has something possibly been nocked out of place when i hit the curb ..its weird coz it drove for half a mile fine on the bent rim and the pedal was fine . car was towed back via static arm the next morning and hasn't been touched till I tryed to move it today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
350Z paradise Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Hi Wilo,the slave cylinder shooting its load is a common problem. had it go on my 370 a month ago,gearbox needs to come off to replace & hopefully it hasn't infected your clutch. From all the posts on this excellent forum it is generally recommended to replace with an uprated slave cylinder..sure if you search on here you will find a recommended product. Hope your clutch is ok. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Wilo, your slave is bolted to the outside of the gearbox, so the box does not have to come out for replacement. Have a look on the passenger side of the gearbox and you will find the slave cyl. and the clutch hose. This is most likely where your fluid loss will be. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 Hi Wilo,the slave cylinder shooting its load is a common problem. had it go on my 370 a month ago,gearbox needs to come off to replace & hopefully it hasn't infected your clutch. From all the posts on this excellent forum it is generally recommended to replace with an uprated slave cylinder..sure if you search on here you will find a recommended product. Hope your clutch is ok. good luck just seems to much of a coincidence for the pedal to lose pressure at same time as brakes leaking fluid tho. doesnt the slave cylinder control both pressure for clutch and brakes ? thus leading to pedal failure if non or little brake fluid present in system? . sorry for questions but iv been google the problem and getting conflicting advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 They are separate, so probably just a coincidence. It is probably a clutch slave failure so get underneath and find the leak. what do i look for mate ..is there a link with pics for noobs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 They are separate, so probably just a coincidence. It is probably a clutch slave failure so get underneath and find the leak. what do i look for mate ..is there a link with pics for noobs See my post #7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 This is what you are looking for: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gassy Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Hi,x2 reservoirs means they are completely separate systems, although on lots of vehicles they all use the same fluid from the same reservoir.As ZMANALEX says crawl underneath you are looking for a unit approx 6-8inchs long with a single pipe running to it and a bleed nipple on it the same as you would see on a brake caliper it will probably be covered in fluid,essentially it's a tube with a rod in middle of it.On 99per cent of vehicles this unit is inside the bell housing of the gearbox and the only way to replace them is to remove the gearbox praise the lord for an old school idea a ten minute fix as opposed to 5-6hrs on some vehicles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 They are separate, so probably just a coincidence. It is probably a clutch slave failure so get underneath and find the leak. what do i look for mate ..is there a link with pics for noobs See my post #7 sorry mate the forum acting up and your second post wasnt visable till i posted after you.my posts keep vanishing and reappearing too ...weird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ioneabee Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 nothing wrong this end fella, that we can see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 Hi,x2 reservoirs means they are completely separate systems, although on lots of vehicles they all use the same fluid from the same reservoir.As ZMANALEX says crawl underneath you are looking for a unit approx 6-8inchs long with a single pipe running to it and a bleed nipple on it the same as you would see on a brake caliper it will probably be covered in fluid,essentially it's a tube with a rod in middle of it.On 99per cent of vehicles this unit is inside the bell housing of the gearbox and the only way to replace them is to remove the gearbox praise the lord for an old school idea a ten minute fix as opposed to 5-6hrs on some vehicles. thx mate iv just ordered stoptech slave cylinder and cable just incase ....if its anything else the cars going Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 3, 2016 Author Share Posted November 3, 2016 (edited) This is what you are looking for: thx for the pic alex ...is this job easy enough for a novice or are special tools required to change it Edited November 3, 2016 by wilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 Very easy if you know what you are doing, however it is a two man operation to bleed the clutch using the conventional method. Might be a plan to get the garage to do it when they are bleeding your brakes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aashenfox Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Wilo, sorry to hijack, but this is a good opportunity, cos mine is going in on saturday to have every single item related to the clutch replaced. I've bought disc, pressure plate, bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder, flywheel, and a braided clutch hose. To those of you who could undertake this work, would you charge a lot more or only a little more, on top of a clutch disc and flywheel replacement (cos he's already given me a good quote for that), to do the cylinders as well? And is there anything else I should do that I haven't mentioned while all this is going on? Cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 Wilo, sorry to hijack, but this is a good opportunity, cos mine is going in on saturday to have every single item related to the clutch replaced. I've bought disc, pressure plate, bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder, flywheel, and a braided clutch hose. To those of you who could undertake this work, would you charge a lot more or only a little more, on top of a clutch disc and flywheel replacement (cos he's already given me a good quote for that), to do the cylinders as well? And is there anything else I should do that I haven't mentioned while all this is going on? Cheers guys no problem mate hope you get it sorted so were both back on the road Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) okay guys found the problem with the clutch fluid reservoir been empty .....the rubber pipe had came/snapped off the nipple on the slave reattached it and filled resovouir to max ...pumped pedal 30 times twice but it wouldn't pressurise so dnt know ?. Edited November 4, 2016 by wilo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 (edited) You may find it needs a vacuum applying to the open bleed nipple, IE brake bleeding device, to get the fluid moving through, mind you i am struggling to comprehend just how the clutch was previously working after the crash, with the pipe union that feeds the slave snapped?? Edited November 4, 2016 by Tricky-Ricky 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catman Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 Just pumping the pedal won't work, as the system is full of air. It needs bleeding to get rid of it. Tim 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 You may find it needs a vacuum applying to the open bleed nipple, IE brake bleeding device, to get the fluid moving through, mind you i am struggling to comprehend just how the clutch was previously working after the crash, with the pipe union that feeds the slave snapped?? cheers tricky ..iv got a new slave and braided line on the way from Adrian and yea everyone keeps saying the same .even after the crash it drove a half mile then parked up for 2 hours before i moved it again to a pub carpark 400 yards further for the night . everything was fine untill i tryed moving it yesterday and didnt hit anything under the car to cause it to snap off . could the impact on the curb cause the engine to violently move causing the pipe to start coming off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted November 4, 2016 Author Share Posted November 4, 2016 okay i need to bleed the existing system to get the pedal working enough to get the car to the garage for new slave cylinder fitting along with brake hoses. 2 problems .... is there a link to bleed clutch system by your self? and is there any detailed pics of how the original rubber hose connects to the slave? iv pushed mine back on but theres no retainer clip etc and im worried it blows off under pressure . any help appreciated guys as iv never done this and am unfamiliar with the process Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted November 4, 2016 Share Posted November 4, 2016 The original hose that goes from the clutch master cylinder to the slave would have a banjo fitting at each end, so bolted, if the original was broken it would have taken a fair bit of force. If you have fitted a braided unit, once all tightend up, with the MC filled, if you don't have a vacuum pump/auto brake bleeder, try this with the slave cylinder bleed valve cracked open, attach a piece of hose to the bleed nipple, and immerse the end of the hose into a small jar full of brake/clutch fluid, and then gently pump the clutch pedal, keeping an eye on the reservoir, and top up if needed. You should be able to tell if the fluid is being pulled through, once this happens, you should be able to close the bleed nipple and the pedal should pressurise, and the clutch should disengage, if not, or you still have air in the system replete to process. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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