saint Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 The baffles in the tips of my milltek have corroded and are buzzing against the outer sleeve of the tips. Can the baffles be either replaced or removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted July 8, 2016 Share Posted July 8, 2016 If I'm understanding your problem correctly then it sounds like the back box would need opening up in order to re-weld or replace the baffles. I'd try asking a custom exhaust place such as "Longlife" or similar as they maybe able to repair it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted July 9, 2016 Author Share Posted July 9, 2016 For some reason Milltek put baffle tubes in the tips themselves, it fits in with a ring shaped disc and then the baffles are just tubes. I inspected the buzzing one and half of its actually missing.... so maybe the best is to try removing the whole insert? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 For some reason Milltek put baffle tubes in the tips themselves, it fits in with a ring shaped disc and then the baffles are just tubes. I inspected the buzzing one and half of its actually missing.... so maybe the best is to try removing the whole insert? I can see what you mean in this picture below of a 350Z Milltek exhaust. If you can get the whole inserts out then that may be your best option, ...not sure how it will look afterwards but at least it won't be buzzing anymore. If you have problems though a custom exhaust place still might be your best bet to sort it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted July 9, 2016 Share Posted July 9, 2016 For some reason Milltek put baffle tubes in the tips themselves, it fits in with a ring shaped disc and then the baffles are just tubes. I inspected the buzzing one and half of its actually missing.... so maybe the best is to try removing the whole insert? I can see what you mean in this picture below of a 350Z Milltek exhaust. If you can get the whole inserts out then that may be your best option, ...not sure how it will look afterwards but at least it won't be buzzing anymore. If you have problems though a custom exhaust place still might be your best bet to sort it. sorry to hijack.i have the same milltek system and would removing the exhaust tip baffles make the exhaust louder like a k1 ? or is the silencing mainly through the back box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cmw9 Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Is this not covered in the lifetime warranty Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 I bought it 2nd hand from on here, so no. I'm pretty sure the seller knew there was a problem waiting to happen... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 I bought it 2nd hand from on here, so no. I'm pretty sure the seller knew there was a problem waiting to happen... Have you contacted Milltek about it? How are they to know you're not the first owner? Not that it should make any difference anyway, lifetime should be lifetime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 If you are NOT the original purchaser of the system (purchased second-hand or was fitted to your car when purchased) All Milltek Sport products are covered by a Limited Warranty which applies only to the original purchaser of the product or part(s) only and is not transferrable to a new owner. In this instance, replacement parts can be purchased from or repairs may be carried out by an authorised Milltek Sport dealer. The owner of the product or part(s) will be liable for all costs incurred as a result Poo.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted July 10, 2016 Author Share Posted July 10, 2016 I bought it 2nd hand from on here, so no. I'm pretty sure the seller knew there was a problem waiting to happen... Have you contacted Milltek about it? How are they to know you're not the first owner? Not that it should make any difference anyway, lifetime should be lifetime. They take the serial number and cross reference it with the dealership that sold the unit. They do however say I can pay them for repairs. Like I have £600 quid for ANOTHER friggin back box... I'm starting to get fed up of my luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Like I said earlier saint if you try a custom exhaust place (like "Longlife" or similar) they might be able to sort this for you cheaply enough. One option could be to cut off both the rear tailpipes & simply weld on new stainless steel replacement tips which a custom exhaust place would have loads of. I'd imagine something like that might set you back £50 at a guess. Let us know how you get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glrnet Posted July 10, 2016 Share Posted July 10, 2016 Like I said earlier saint if you try a custom exhaust place (like "Longlife" or similar) they might be able to sort this for you cheaply enough. One option could be to cut off both the rear tailpipes & simply weld on new stainless steel replacement tips which a custom exhaust place would have loads of. I'd imagine something like that might set you back £50 at a guess. Let us know how you get on. Did exactly this on my Ark as I wanted rolled tips. They cut the old days ones off and real placed them, pretty good job for £60 odd quid as far as I rememberðŸ‘🽠Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 Like I said earlier saint if you try a custom exhaust place (like "Longlife" or similar) they might be able to sort this for you cheaply enough. One option could be to cut off both the rear tailpipes & simply weld on new stainless steel replacement tips which a custom exhaust place would have loads of. I'd imagine something like that might set you back £50 at a guess. Let us know how you get on. Oops, I forgot to update y'all! Well, it now spits fire for fun. If anyone wants a loud miltek but doesnt mind a bit of drone then it's a great DIY mod. Some free advice: 1. There's LOADS of cladding on the inside of the baffle, be prepared to make a mess 2. The inside of the baffle is well and truly attached to the inner wall of the pipe at the point where the tips widen out. I grabbed pliers and just bent the mesh until I could tug at it. It's not neat if you shine a light down there and see the edge of the pipe is sharp and crumply but I refer you to "it spits fire" if anyone looks that close. 3. The disk that sits at the end of the baffle is a PAIN to get out, you'll need some force to bend it on itself before pulling it out. 4. Keeping the now-exposed inside of the pipe shiny is a lot of work, it fouls up really quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colesl4w Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Like I said earlier saint if you try a custom exhaust place (like "Longlife" or similar) they might be able to sort this for you cheaply enough. One option could be to cut off both the rear tailpipes & simply weld on new stainless steel replacement tips which a custom exhaust place would have loads of. I'd imagine something like that might set you back £50 at a guess. Let us know how you get on. Oops, I forgot to update y'all! Well, it now spits fire for fun. If anyone wants a loud miltek but doesnt mind a bit of drone then it's a great DIY mod. Some free advice: 1. There's LOADS of cladding on the inside of the baffle, be prepared to make a mess 2. The inside of the baffle is well and truly attached to the inner wall of the pipe at the point where the tips widen out. I grabbed pliers and just bent the mesh until I could tug at it. It's not neat if you shine a light down there and see the edge of the pipe is sharp and crumply but I refer you to "it spits fire" if anyone looks that close. 3. The disk that sits at the end of the baffle is a PAIN to get out, you'll need some force to bend it on itself before pulling it out. 4. Keeping the now-exposed inside of the pipe shiny is a lot of work, it fouls up really quick. Wow, removing the bits in just the tips made such a big difference? I'm really surprised and impressed at the ability to sound deaden that much at the very end of the pipe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 Glad you're happy with your DIY mod saint. Once did a similar thing on a Mondeo ST24 I owned but what I did was cut open the exhaust back box with a grinder, then removed all the baffles and wadding & then welded it back shut. Sounded great afterwards especially for what was a standard system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 @Colesl4w: it makes sense to me, but then again I've done exhaust noise development at work with Bentley. The baffles will be tuned to work with the cladding so that the frequency of the sound is within the right range for the cladding to absorb the noise. It's about managing the size and mixing of the vortex structures and preventing the strongest structures from propagating out of the exhaust tip. So without anything there, there's nothing impeding the acoustic waves coming from the exhaust and it will be louder, particularly at low frequency since the baffle will disrupt longer wavelengths. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilo Posted October 27, 2016 Share Posted October 27, 2016 @Colesl4w: it makes sense to me, but then again I've done exhaust noise development at work with Bentley. The baffles will be tuned to work with the cladding so that the frequency of the sound is within the right range for the cladding to absorb the noise. It's about managing the size and mixing of the vortex structures and preventing the strongest structures from propagating out of the exhaust tip. So without anything there, there's nothing impeding the acoustic waves coming from the exhaust and it will be louder, particularly at low frequency since the baffle will disrupt longer wavelengths. just went to have a look at doing the same to mine ..but cant work out where to start . did you just bray a hole in the perforated part inside them get the pliers in and rag it out ? also whats holding the big shinny concave donut thingy at the pipe in ? is this welded or is it the internal structure holding it in place. any help appreciated mate as i dont want to mess this up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saint Posted October 27, 2016 Author Share Posted October 27, 2016 One of mine was half missing, so that was my starting hole. But on the other, I just went at it until there was a hole and then grew it out until I could tear big chunks off. Patience recommended. The donut shouldn't be connected to anything based on my experience. It's held in under tolerance by the baffles and outside pipe. This is why mine rattles, since it became free to move without half the baffle being there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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