Ekona

Would a crank sensor kill all boost though? Not having seen the car or kit in question and I'm far from an expert at the VQ35DE engine, but the symptoms sound more like one of the pipes post-turbo but before the TB have popped off: At least, that's what I've had before on previous aftermarket turbo'd cars. If this had happened, then would the car going lean off-boost/rich on-boost cause the crank sensor failure? Sorry, not trying to sound like a know-it-all-Nancy here or anything, I'm genuinely interested as to what caused the failure as going FI is something I'm looking at for the future of my own car, and I'm more experienced with turbos than superchargers so that's probably the route I'd take. Just eager to learn, that's all!

Is there not an easier way to reset the ECU, like pulling a fuse/s like on other cars? That guide (whilst I'm sure it's spot-on an is great if you don't want to start pulling the car apart) seems like hard work for something that should be so simple... Or is this typical Jap engineering over-complicating everything?

Exactly. If the government reduced the tax on the fuel (and don't forget, every time that the physical cost of the fuel itself goes up the tax goes up twice as much!), then we could start paying sensible money for our fuel which would in turn lead to cheaper food in our supermarkets, which would mean that we would have more spare to pay our mortgages with or buy luxury goods, which would lead to a kick start in the economy and we wouldn't have to worry about this credit crunch malarky. However, getting the government to understand all that is another matter...

That's been doing the round for at least the last three years, and it'll never make the blindest bit of difference. It's the tax that's the issue for us, not the cost of the petrol itself.

Very nice, especially the Delorean. I've been tunnel running with a couple of those and they sound beautiful *EDIT* And I've just realised (after looking at the background) that the Delorean isn't a mock-up of the BTTF car, but rather one of the prop cars they poodle around in at Universal (or it looks familiar to my eyes anyway).

It's free for one year and then you have to pay. I've just upgraded from the old 500 to an XL Europe, and that's the same content in the pack as that one. Speaking of which, unless you want it for the small size for the same price as that ONE you should be able to get an XL which has a much bigger screen. Honestly, don't use the included TT speed cams as they're utter rubbish. There's a good few missing and they don't include the mobile sites, which is what I find the PGPSW ones particularly good for. If you're going to spend £130 on something, another £19 isn't that much more on top at all.

I use the TT for GPS speed cam locations, but I never bother with the official ones as they're slightly rubbish. Go to PocketGPSWorld and pay £19 per year for a fully speed-zoned and type set of the buggers. Far more accurate and dead cheap

Is that literally all you want? No subs, better speakers, nothing? If that's the case, then read the pages on 350Z-tech.com and do it yourself, as it's really not that hard at all. Honest!

BBC iPlayer my friend

Agreed. Right up there with the one just after Angus got caught playing with naughty ladies, absolutely hysterical! "GORDON'S ALIVE!" :lol:

Not by much perhaps, but it will alter it for the worse. 45% of 255mm is more than 45% of 245mm. *EDIT* using this handy site, with 255 tyres on the speedo will read 1.3% too slow.

Not unless you're driving at 100mph in the first 3 gears in a straight line it's not. @Sarnie: We're on about the 330D, not the 335D.

Yup, the second number is the height of the sidewall expressed as a percentage of the width, which is in mm.

0-whatever times are pretty irrelevant unless you're on the drag strip. In-gear acceleration and torque is what counts after you've started moving, and that's why the 330D is a fantastic cruising car. A well-driven Zed should happily keep up with it all day long, but if you get things wrong then the Beemer is going to walk away.

330Ds are hugely quick when moving, look at the torque they put out. No shame there I reckon.

Nice one, cheers Phil. And yes, this does mean that those bits I got from you are still sitting in a box in the lounge

As per the title, really. Any ideas as to how long it should take a reasonably competent garage to do a pad change, fluid change, and fit a set of Goodridge lines on a Brembo'd Zed? Couple of hours tops? Thanks!

Or you could use Photoshop Express Beta. Just say you're from the US when signing up, they don't check at all and you get access to all the shiny goodness that Adobe can offer. Whilst it's not exactly CS3, it is very good and the quick tools do work well.

Stolen from Wiki: I'd be expecting to see the lower end of that scale for an OEM tune, but certainly not in the 11s.

LM1 Terrific piece of kit.

They're still sitting in the bags they came in, as a quick test of them in really didn't sound a whole lot different (admittedly this wasn't under load) so I'm going to leave them out for now. I plan to do a noise test just for the laughs really, so I'll get some video of the bungs in when I do that (hopefully next week).

That's what the volume control on your PC is for ;) The only trouble with the videos of the K1 posted up (mine included) is that they don't convey the bass across properly. That's what really makes it a very special sound.

Videos! Quite a difference, eh?!

Not really worried about as a sniffer can only detect so much as it's post-cat, but assuming it's close enough to the true reading it's getting dangerously rich at the top end, possibly getting towards bore wash perhaps?

Runs quite rich, doesn't it? 11-11.5 is what I'd expect an FI engine to run, not an NA one. How did they get the AFR? Sniffer at the exhaust tip, or have you had a separate hole for a proper wideband sensor added before the cats?