un1eash

I dont have the problem anymore if i set the blowers to pull in air from outside.

Mine was doing this but its fine if i have the re-circulation switch set to draw in air from the outside.

I was in higher education long enough so i'll take your other advise and go ask for a pay rise.

Watch the fifth gear test they did a while back and make up your own mind about power....

I dont care to much about mpg, i currently get 10mpg with an average speed of around 11mph. My question was more about if the air turns off by itself when not needed for cooling even if you have it switched on.

I thought the air con in modern cars was belt driven and when the air con is turned on it engages a clutch in the air con pump, this extra load causes the increase in mpg. This is why i wasnt sure if having the air con on but not blowing cold engages the pump or not.

Does this use more fuel though like it would in the summer when your blasting ice cold air out?

Our old C2 VTS use to run rubbish on Tesco unleaded but fine on BP/Shell so i tend to avoid there normal stuff now. I always put 95 Ron in my 350Z as i only drive around town and it seems fine, will be trying Shell v power next time i run my tank down though. On the Swift Sport forum i was told by members that the Sport has to run on Super Unleaded and if you dont it will damage the engine and they can tell and wont pay out on any warranty work. Lets just say i dont believe everything i read on the net.

Just a quick question that i was thinking about the other day. Having the air con on tends to use MPG in most cars, now what happens if you have the air con turned on but the heaters are blowing out hot air, does this still engage the air con and use MPG??? Reason i ask is my windows kept fogging up in this cold weather and it only went away if i turned the air con on, it seems pointless as i've got my heaters on hot.

I dont find the K1 to loud when cruising around, the sound system can easily drown out the K1 if i want it too.

I used the existing speakers, cut the middle out and mounted my JL TR650-CSi's, there 61.9mm and only just clear the glass. I run them of a JL 300/2 Slash amp which is an awesome bit of kit. At nearly £400 a piece for the amps though there not cheap but i was lucky enough to pick up both my 300/2 and 500/1 in mint condition for £280.

On a budget go for an Imprint ready alpine headunit and processor, its night and day difference with the processor.

It should have 4-5 stamps, it its a mid 2005 it should have had a P1-P2-P1-P3-P1 service, its not the one on trader from the nissan franchise dealer for 10k is it?

But be aware that on a lot of cars the bumpers can look a slightly different colour to the rest of the car in certain lighting conditions, they came out of the factory this way. Good luck! Especially the petrol cap. i believe this is caused because the bodywork is metal and the bumpers and filler cap are plastic. the paint bonds differently. Its common on alot of JAP cars, our swift is the same and just take a look at the front bumper of a new MX5 next time you see one.

But be aware that on a lot of cars the bumpers can look a slightly different colour to the rest of the car in certain lighting conditions, they came out of the factory this way. Good luck! Especially the petrol cap.

My 2006 GT has a coin holder, the cup holders are in the door card.

Does seem on the expensive side. One good thing i found with the 350Z is parts dont have to be expensive unlike my old BMW Z4.

Bridgestone RE040's were fitted as standard, the RE050A's are a world apart.

Fronts 225/45 18 Rears 245/45 18

That bose sub isnt to bad if fed right. I started of with just putting my Alpine 9886R headunit and Imprint PXA-H100 processor, on the default EQ's it sounded great, loads better then standard but i didnt like having that much bass behind the seat so i upgraded.

300bhp RWD vs 100-150bhp FWD. Tyres work well on different cars, they may be awesome on one car but terrible on another. I find Yoko C.drives work really well on the stock 14's on my mk1 mr2 but i wouldnt put them anywhere near the 350Z. We put 452's on my sisters octavia, there great on there but i just cant help but think the 350 needs a premium tyre.

Out of the 3 RWD cars ive owned and driven a couple others the 350Z is the most sure footed in my opinion. Everyone told me they were really tail happy and on the edge but there fine if you know how to drive, jumping on the loud pedal and brakes will unsettle the car and hurt you. I'm still running RE040's aswell which people say arent the best.

I'm going for RE050A's, will be worth the extra £200 for a set. i have T1R's on the mr2 and they are terrible in the wet.

The "New Z4M" is called a Z4 sDrive35iS. I had an E89 Z4 before my 350Z and got abit bored of it, loved the looks and still do but it felt to much like a normal car to drive, it didnt have that sport car fun factor, like you said you might aswell have a 1/3 series. Sounds like the E89/E90 on the motorway also so i suspect its the run flats, my girlfriend didnt feel safe in the car and it jumped around alot, the 350Z is just planted and feels alot safer in the wet.

I didnt even let Sytner BMW clean my Z4 when it was filthy as i was planning on doing it myself.