GIXXERUK

ps. to the forum

here ya go mate ....... http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13464 got mine off alex, top bloke and fast delivery

it can be done, the zed seats have airbags and when you replace them you have to put a resistor or bridge in the connector to fool it iirc try a search on aftermarket seats on here and my350z.com

unlike a lot of cars the passenger airbag cannot just be turned off, i would try an accident repair center, they must come across this all the time, there must be a way to fool the sensor

Last time I bought tyres no-one round here would fit them for me... that happens a lot mate, i have had problems getting tyres, exhausts and decats fitted in the past because i didnt buy them from the co i wanted to fit them

Applying Dodo Juice soft waxes - hand or pad? There has been a lot of discussion on other forums about whether you should apply Dodo soft waxes with a pad or by hand. Which is better? Which is easier? Which gives better results? Here are some of my thoughts: BENEFITS OF APPLYING BY HAND - Less chance of scratching or damaging panels so long as hands are clean, nails are short and no rings are on fingers - More contact with the bodywork; thickness and coverage of wax can be felt as well as seen - More economical in terms of wax application; less wax wastage as difficult to overapply the wax or overload the pad - Less chance of 'clogging' shut lines with wax - Fashionable technique at the moment and makes your neighbours wonder what the hell you are doing BENEFITS OF APPLYING BY FOAM APPLICATOR - Not so tiring on hands and fingers, especially on colder days on cold light-coloured bonnets - More even coverage - No chance of oily fingers after application (although they can easily be cleaned or wiped and do smell nice afterwards) - Less chance of your neighbours thinking you're nuts Overall, I would say applying by hand on a hot day can be rewarding, but a lightly-loaded pad is all that is required for a consistent and even coverage of a Dodo Juice soft wax on a panel in all conditions. The problem with soft waxes comes with overloading them - the wax ends up in shut lines or is too thick to cure properly, so just gets wiped off at buffing. With a bit of familiarity with the wax, pad application would be the ideal technique - unless you want to freak out the neighbours, of course - but the choice is yours.

when does it clunk ? when you hit a bump in the road ? when you accelerate or brake ? drop links ?

well in mate now do the window reset and check the little rubber door switch inside the door shut is tight

show me a car or motorcycle without rear reflectors and its illegal, i promise you a lot of aftermarket rear lights for bikes dont have them and everytime you have an mot they flog you a stick on reflector they dont have to be built into the brakes but normally are

think their website is out of date mate "We have four soft waxes, and our hard wax - Banana Armour - has colour-charged its way in, too" i read that then checked the forum

So for an Azure blue (or similar) what colour is the right Dodo juice to use? I may give it a whirl this stuff? Time to try something new! I've been using the Meguairs tech wax for ages, then Mike suggested the R222 stuff which I was about to try but might try this.... Take it that its easy to get on and off. Can't be arsed with anything that is like wiping off treacle! Easy stuff to use Mark. Give Clean and Shiny a call and they can advise the best one. They normally have a hard and soft wax for each tone of finish.... SoftWax Rain Forest Rub- All Colours Purple Haze - Dark Colours Orange Crush – Warm Colours Light Fantastic - Light Colours Hard Wax Hard Candy - All Colours Blue Velvet - Dark Colours Banana Armour - Warm Colours Diamond White - Light Colours Light Colours include: Silvers, White, Light Metallic’s, Light Blues. Warm Colours include: Yellows, Orange, Reds, Gold. Dark Colours include: Black, Greys, Dark Blues, Dark Metallic’s http://www.dodojuice.com/forum/ you should really use lime prime before the wax to get the best out of it

+1 easiest is to clear the nozzles, if not check the pipes, they may be pinched

Yes but your car has to be immaculate before they fit it. The tiniest spec of grit or a shows up as a massive lump. I wouldnt advise anyone get this done unless they hate the idea of a respray. The finish may look OK for a short while but will scratch and scuff easily and stone chips and scratches that you could touch up or buff out with a paint finish will be more like tears and rips and whole panels will need re-doing. Your car wont be as shiny as a nice paint job either. obviously you have had this done to offer up such conclusive advice its pretty obvious the car would need to be spotlessly clean, any lumps show on application and vinyl can be lifted to clean it, i have seen this done

http://www.signlanguageltd.co.uk/colour ... pping.html you could ask, i havent seen prices quoted anywhere

beading can dry on leaving water spots but its ok if you use the car, better if the water sheets really

they did a lambo in matt black - was on pistonheads

awesome wheels......whats next ?

Yep, already got them, and i've got a big soft drying towel coming too. I've been reading up on Detailing World, some of those guys have, well, OCD as they put it! +1 http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/s ... hp?t=80165

have you tried layering dodo juice rob ? i'm sure you would like it and it would last longer

http://www.worldcarfans.com/9080331.007 ... us-exige-s the design possibilities are endless

+1 no prepping is needed as there is with spraying And no waiting inbetween coats, buffing or finishing! not sure about waxing the vinyl though

+1 no prepping is needed as there is with spraying

much easier to have custom design ......like this http://necromanc.blogspot.com/2007/09/l ... ingly.html

If you get fed up with it you just unwrap it

its only for noise so how one be better than another ? always wondered about the heat soak problem with a metal intake pipe ?