Dicky

Offsets the cost of fuel dont you think . Dont see the point of spending £15 quid or so on branded wipers when these seem just as good. With my change I can invest in a couple of more litres. That tyre idea's got possibilities by the way

Sorry Martin I dont get out much you know Batch 2 foto's first frame entitled NICE, top left hand corner. Dont understand all the oily bits in the foto but it caught my eye. By the way hope it all turns out ok and you enjoy the improved performance.

Hi ENVY, was that you I pulled up alongside at West Denton roundabout on your way to the A69 a couple of weeks ago, cant be two cars like that on the road. I felt very inadequate in my standard rig especially as everyone was ogling yours.

What struck me most about the first "Nice" foto was ---why would someone want red window frames upstairs and white ones down??

Depends what you're starting with. Now Now, if I let that be known all the young lads here might feel a bit inadequate

No idea. They look the same as the original ones and you dont have to fit any plastic bits to put them on (already fitted) Just pull the old one off and pop the Tesco one on. They come in a plasic covered blue box with Tesco 18" Wiper Blades written on the top. No numbers anywhere but on the vehicle list written on the back it says suitable for a Nissan 300 ZX Mk 1.

Wiper blades are perfic. I know an extra 1" is handy sometimes but cant see why the drivers side needs to be 19". Gona leave the 18" on

Its chucking it down at the moment and Im off to my mates for coffee so will report back later.

Suppose your all fully aware of this and Im playing catch up, but just bought a set of 18" front wiper blades from Tesco £3.00 each and they fit . Unfortunatly I now also know that the drivers side is longer, must be 19" but it looks ok. By the way the wind deflector on the driver’s side had brocken off a few weeks ago when I lifted the bonnet with the blades up. I attached it back on with black ty-wraps (cant see the join) so just swapped it over. Will buy a 19" tomorrow and use the spare 18" on the back. I cant help anyone with how the wheels go around so tell me Im able to help someone please

It widens the track and therefore could be argued it will improve the grip. The main advantage though is as you say, it looks better. So kind of changes the mass of the car to spread over a wider square footage, thus improving the roll of the car and therefore grip? Yeah I suppose you could say that. The improvement in grip however is so marginal you probably wouldn't notice any difference imo. Bought a set of 20mm spacers from Phil and fitted them last week. I certainly can notice a difference. Apart from the much improved looks, I do seem to get more feeling through the steering wheel and also feel a difference in the corners. I don’t scream around corners but I can notice the difference so much so its raised my confidence level. Well worth the money. Just wish Id fitted them sooner which

Hmmmm, I took early retirement, end Feb so this may be something I could try. Now how do I convince the wife

Can I just clarify this a little.I’ve heard of this method of buying a car but never got to find out how it works? To own the car for 3 yrs costs you:- £6750 deposit + £13086 ( £363.51 x 36) = £19836 then at the end of 3yrs you get £11065 back so it cost you £8771 Is that right? Or have I failed my basic maths yet again!

I won't mention the spacers then Car looks much better with those 20mm sapacers you supplied Phil. Thanks once again for a fast efficient service and most importantly a very good price. Will always check with ESR for my bits in future to be sure to be sure. also here for advice as well, don't always have to spend money despite what others may infer. Agreed 100%. You were most helpfull with my telephone questions and is why I'd buy from you in the future (my cheque's in the post isnt it?)

I won't mention the spacers then Car looks much better with those 20mm sapacers you supplied Phil. Thanks once again for a fast efficient service and most importantly a very good price. Will always check with ESR for my bits in future to be sure to be sure.

Well Ive sorted it--and your just not going to believe this. The car was on the hard stand in the back garden and having put the pads in position on the very last wheel, I decided to have a bru before putting the wheel back on. So I put the kettle on and what do you think-- While in the kitchen someone must have climbed over my six foot security fence, taken one of my pads back out and replaced it the wrong way around, then scarpered. The metal of the pad was rubbing against the disc making the noise. Good job I didnt brake to heavilly when testing it. Told you you wouldnt believe it. Put it back in the correct way around and not a squeek now. SOME BLOODY PEOPLE Eh!!! Please dont tell anyone though, cos they may get the wrong impression and think it was me Thanks once again for all your advice in my hour of need.

Just been looking at a workshop manual (I think its for a USA car tbut should be the same ?) and it shows the front brakes as having an Inner shim and Inner shim cover, but my original pads (first time changed from new) didnt have these when I took them out. Although they did have the thin stick on shim type of thing that I had to fit manually to the back pads before fitting. Should the metal shim be fitted do you know?? Ive tried to attach a copy of the manual page but its to big to upload apparently. By the way the manual shows the spring device on the pad I mentioned as being the wear sensor as you suggested. Hey ho

Sorry about the delay in responding. My daughters studying for an A level exam in the morning and has comandered the computer and the Yfi is down, Anyway, Ive added a picture (hope it works) the spring Im on about can be seen in the bottom left corner of the pad sticking out. In answer to your queeries, Copper grease = yes Grit = will check that in the morning Bedding in + yes good suggestion will check in the morning Spring = yes could be a wear sensor not sure if this car has that although I would have thought iot would. Is it usual for Red Stuff pads not to have this? 4 Arm Spider = No that spring is in place. The one I mean is mounted on the pad itself Disc Are Slack = So there meant to be loose, In the olden days they used to be secured with a counter sunk screw. Cheers everyone---a problem shared is a proble halfed (or something like that. Also a friend in need is -----a pest get rid of him!!

Just fitted red stuff pads and wheel spacers all round. Now got grating coming from front when I brake. Noticed a couple of things when doing the work that puzzled me and may be the reason---any advice welcome. 1. On the rear pads, the outer pad of the old and one of the new pair had a spring type fitting attached to it. Same on the other rear wheel. However on the front wheels one of the old pads on both wheels (the outer one) also had this spring fitting on it but neither of the new pads had it. 2 Noticed that the front discs are free to move when the wheel is removed and seem to be held on only by the wheel when its in position. Is this normal?

+1 It might be a little more expensive than your ebay ones but they'll be good quality Eibach hubcentric spacers. What was the end result Digsy, did you fit spacers? what size did you end up with? and have you got a picture?

Thinking of getting 20mm spacers myself. Noticed some on ebay that are TUV approved and have asked the seller if they are hubcentric. Ive attempted to copy the link, although it looks very long and probably wont work. Dont know what Im doing dont you know! Anyway hope it does. blush: . Anyone got an opinion on them. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ALLOY-WHEEL-SPACE ... dZViewItem

Cheers, Dicky - much appreciated. I already know I've got issues - the fronts are really badly worn on the insides, so I guess it's either toe-out or dodgy camber. Or is it castor? Whatever, it needs fixing. Did you get a quote for actually performing the alignment (rather than checking for problems)? Slight history attached to mine- Had problems a couple of years ago with road noise from the front tyres. Benfield tried to con me saying it was the Bridgestone tyres. It was actually due to feathering, a know problem on these cars. Eventually they fitted new front tyres and had the alignment checked at NET&E. So approx 2yrs ago NET&E checked and set up all my wheel alignment. When I took it down the other day because of another prob I have, they did the check free then said that all wheels needed adjustment and it would cost £70. Decided not to have it fixed cos I felt they were touting for work. It seemed strange they set the whole car up a couple of years ago and now there all out again? Im a steady driver so I would have thought they'd be still ok (not sure) Anyway Im going to get it checked at Clarks in Sunderland just to be sure. Oh by the way don’t bother with XOpower on TVTE it looks like a back street lock up. Mal.

Northern Eastern Tyres and Exhaust (used by Benfield Motors) checked mine. They have a place on Middle Engine lane at Silverlink Wallsend tele 0191 2626363.A full check is free but beware its a slick operation and I got the impression they were generating work (I might be mistaken though). I descovered later they had also scratched my front nearside alloy during the check but didnt notice it until a couple of days later when I washed it. Have them check your car over with you before doing any work. Im also told of a place on Team Valley Trading Estate called Xopower but havent been able to locate them in the telepone book yet so am going down today to see if I can find them from scant directions given. I'll let you know. Vic Young in South Shields use Clarks Coachbuilders in Sunderland tele 0191 5237975.

I bought the Origin b2 with detector which when mounted on the dash is supposed to activate if a beam is pointed at the car. WASTE of MONEY! I queried the operation with Origin and discovered that if targeted the unit will activate an alarm, but you only have 1/10 th’s of a second, not seconds to respond and get your speed down. In brief if you’re targeted you’re caught. They admit that these devices are useless if you are being targeted as you cant react fast enough. They say they are better if the car in front is being targeted and you then pick up the scatter.

The main problem here was the driver. Didn’t watch the revs, missed gears and chickened out on road conditions . When we both did away I was quicker until I made the errors. Anyway I’ve slept on it now and realise how stupid it was anyway, when we classify these things we only talk in terms of a second or so and after all what’s that. What matters is the Z looks way way cooler for less money, and that’s the only race that realy matters to me. But at the time I have to admit to being well p-ssed off

Had a little dice with a BMW 330d who intentionally cut me up on the entry to a round about. I don’t often get involved but this prat really bugged me. I waited until we exited the round about and was intending to humiliate him when he started his run. Then disaster. First I hit the rev limiter TWICE as I change up . Then I decided the B road we were on although straight had lots of holes and bumps so I didn’t gun after him and risk damage to the car or worse . There was a cross roads further up anyway so I pulled up behind him again and having made the turn he did away again. This time I missed the gear when changing into 2nd and again fell back as the road was just as bad. He just gunned it all the way and left me for dead. I know it stupid to race and you feel lousy when your out of the car if youve been sucked in, but it doesn’t half hurt a lot more to get smoked.