Dicky

Yup had it from new. To be fair it’s a bit better now than it was some 6mths ago. This is the first close ratio box I’ve had so don’t know if this sort of thing is to be expected. As I said the dealer said there all like this and it’s because it’s a close ratio box. If that’s fair comment then OK. But at the moment I don’t know if it’s a fob off (because they tried that one before to!)

I’d be interested to hear your views on the finished product. Regarding other comments. I’ve only gunned it from rest on two occasions (sad barsteward I know) and I’ve got to be honest I tended to be holding on rather than ponder the gear change performance. I would define “notchyâ€

Currently in the heat of battle with local dealer/customer services re a gear change problem. When changing from 1st to 2nd I feel something catching as I engage 2nd. Ive got an 04 car and it’s the same most times but on occasions I’ve managed a smooth change. Its worse when cold but noticeable most of the time. I’ve raised it before but think I referred to it as a “notchyâ€

Same here. I reported damaged paintwork on my front bumper. The Nissan engineer came out to look at it and said "yep well fix that for you" Took it to the local main dealers and to cut a long story short, on the day I was to take it in they told me they would only paint half the bumper and made me pay for the other half £175 as far as I recall.

Interesed in you thoughts in this one too

Hope this works. First Poll don’t you know. Interested to know as I’m in the heat of battle with both Main Dealer and Customer Services. Would also like to know your thoughts on Customer Services. Think Ill have to set up another poll for that one?

Scuse the poor spulling. Just noticed it

I suppose I could have it looked at under WARRANTY----Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, ---oooooh, that’s a goodun.

Where our own worst enemies. I’m as much to blame as anyone, requesting main dealer service history when I know their work is crap. I’ve had nothing but BAD experiences over the years with the majority of main dealers but Nissan have to be one of the worst and that includes Customer Services (there’s a contradiction in terms). When you take your car to a small garage you generally talk to the guy who does the work, who then has to face you should there be a complaint. This tends to motivate him to do a good job, first time. Bloody main dealers have several cushioning levels between you and the guy doing the work. There’s no real motivation to do the job right. He can squirt a bit of oil at it and pass it back if he wants. When you go to complain you get some dolly bird flicking her hair around offering the most sincere apologies, forgetting them as quick as they leave her lips. Wouldn’t it be nice if this forum could start the revolution to change peoples thinking? Let’s face it, the industry manoeuvred us all into this position, to get at our hard earned bucks, allowing them to buy more technicians certificates to hang on the wall. It’s about time we stopped being controlled in this way. IM WITH YOU LOT. NO MORE MAIN DEALER WORK ON MY CAR, unless absolutely necessary and I’ll sell the benefits of Joe Blogg’s garage to any prospective buyer in future.

When I turn off the climate control I get a strong smell of hot water and the windows start to mist up. Anyone else experienced this? Dicky

My heart goes out to you Astonal! You call yourself prick, but we’ve all been one of those in our time. You say it’s not an insurance job (yet). Please take my advice and let them know ASAP, your on dodgy ground as it is leaving it so long. It sounds like it could turn out to be a very expensive job and you don’t want to cut corners on such a new car. Don’t forget you’ll have to sell it one day. I think most people would rather buy a car repaired to the standards required by an insurance company than from the guy who had the work done himself. So it’s going to cost, we all pay for our mistakes. My fear is you might loose at both ends, i.e. getting it on the road again and loosing when you sell. Just wish I knew more about cars so I could help. Dicky

I’m with you on that Ming. When I argued the toss with the service manager he pointed to a notice on their wall, no kidding, it was about 200yds away, down the yard, from the service reception entrance . When they damaged my wing mirror they insisted their technician had spotted the damage and recorded it before he started his work. "Oh Yeah", I said, well ticks are easily applied to a piece of paper and in any case you checked the car over youself before he started. Oh, were a pratfessional dealer sir, he said. His understanding of the word was obviously as bad as my spelling! I had to arrange a meeting with him, next day, in his office and go over my whole sorry experience of the damage and poor service I’d received from his “professionalâ€

Sorry, I should also have mentioned I have max NCD and I got a small amout off cus the wife's also insured with them.

Just thought Id feed back this years insurance quotes. *Quoted for the wife and I to drive *Bonus protected *Legal *Courtesy car *We each have an SP30 *She had a bump a couple of months ago in her car. *Were both 59 (but highly intelligent and devastatingly good looking in a wrinkly sort of way) Prudential (renewal) £488 Excess £500 Direct Line £755 Excess £450 Privilege £571 Excess £400 Saga £458 Excess £500 Budget £454 Excess £500 Sainsbury £463 Excess £500 RAC £424 Excess £520 And the winner---- More Than £322 Excess £500

Same thing happened to me. Damaged wing mirror one time, brake fluid all over the bonnet the next time and again when I returned it to get the shoddy work sorted out Then they put tyre brace marks on my alloys when changing the front tyres. All damage by two local main dealers. Ive ranted about this before and I now get the service manager to check out the car, as you do with a hire car, and take note of its condition before I hand it over. Beware though. One of the dealers who always has loads of cars parked outside leaving hardly any space to get into the garage, told me that the car is only their responsibility when it’s in the garage and not out on their parking area. Any damage caused here is down to me. Dicky

OooooooH Simon, don’t park so close, minimum recommended distance is 500yds all sides from any other car. Id hate to see such a nice example get scratched or worse dinged!! Dicky

Thanks for that. Up to date once again. Sounds useful.

I realise I’m getting on a bit and have only just come to understand “Blingâ€

Just as bad up north I’m afraid. I’ve used two main dealers so far and had problems with both. Don’t try Nissan customer services either cus youll end up topping yourself. Their an even bigger shambles.

I haven’t seen Chesterfield’s installation method before and would say its got the makings of being the best. I’ve had a bit of experience with electrical noise, however I’m by no means and expert. The general theory is to earth all metal surfaces within the area of the main noise source. I believe that metal surfaces help to radiate the noise especially where sharp edges are formed. When computers are built into electrical noisy environments the best practice is to have a central earth. That’s to say one point to where all metal surfaces and all 0v (battery –ve) wires are ran to and connected to ground. It’s obviously not practical to earth all metal surfaced but I see the sense in doing the larger ones.

The Kuro one looks a bit to good to be true. Who buys a £30K and car and leaves it in the garage. Millionaires I suppose. I’m always suspicious of such low mileage cars (looks good though)I’ve had several black cars before and wouldn’t have another cus their such a bug--r to keep clean and show the polish swirls. The Chilli car looks more genuine but don’t like red myself. Of course the best colour, as we all know, is GUN METAL PS by the way you’ve made the right decision to get a ZZZZ. I luv mine and would have its babies if it were possible. Ahead of the rest Dicky

Jim you made the right decision! I bought one today. It cost £87. When I opened the box and saw what you get for that I nearly took it back. If they can’t make this for £10 I’ll show my nether regions in the local show room window. It doesn’t even fit very well either. If I’d made one myself I’d probably have been paranoid at getting a nice snug fit. This one has a sizable gap right around it. Got the brackets fitted then put it in position and noticed it has a small dent in it. I’m half tempted to trace its outline and make my own. Dicky

As The Minel says, the only difference I can see to mine is that you have 6 wires. The info I worked off has 5. The additional wire you have looks as if it may go from the back RHS intake connection to the front passenger side of the engine bay. It looks like it connects to the body near the head light? I don’t believe this would make much difference though, in fact you’d think it would improve matters. If you cant notice a difference then either your engine doesnt generate noise, one or more wires isnt conducting, or may be insulted from the connection some how poss by paint or lacquer Funny fing electrickery

I dont have photos to hand but heres a descriptive if it helps. * All positional information is when standing at the front of the engine bay * All you need is a 10mm combination spanner although a 10mm socket is handy in one or two positions. First remove the black plastic engine cover (4x bolts) Unclip the battery cover The bolt positions are as follows 1 At the back of the aluminium air intake manifold are two tapped 6mm holes. One on the RHS the other on the LHS 2 At the LHS front of the air intake manifold is a dark coloured bolt, which secures a harness bracket. It’s mounted just under the black plastic engine cover when fitted. 3 There is another 6mm tapped hole more or less at the front centre of the engine, just below the air intake manifold and below a grey wiring harness tube 4 Another bolt mounted on the left side of the engine and under the bonnet switch (rubber boot) mounting bracket. Attaches the factory fitted ground wire to the body. The switch bracket has to be taken off to gain access by removing its two securing bolts. 5 The last bolt position is on the negative terminal of the battery. You don’t need to remove the terminal clamp only its securing nut. Installation 6 Connect the 32â€

Ive got to go out just now so wont be able to help until tomorrow. Ill post more info then. I got my info from the old site but in the mean time try a search on this site, it might be here somewhere Cheers Dicky