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Everything posted by itsLeon

  1. Here are two N/A Builds you might wanna follow so that gives you an idea what is needed to get that power level https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/124653-ow-no-another-na-build/ https://www.350z-uk.com/topic/110772-fast-roadtrack-350z-37ltr-hr-build/
  2. No it's not. It's a VE (Volumetric efficiency) map, if i leave that blank no fuel would be injected. Uprev uses a different method for delivering fuel (forgot the name)
  3. AFR target: Fuel map: Timing: Closed loop settings (o2 control):
  4. Im only targeting 16.7 at low rpm and load. This is because of the cams, the have a big overlap so the fuel that gets injected some part of it leaves directly into the exhaust. Also 14.7 is not some holy number to focus on (its only for emmisions) and with the installed EGT sensors i can monitor if its not getting to hot. The OEM ecu is only in closed loop when the target is 14.7 after that i goes to open loop. Once my engine reaches higher rpm/load to numbers are accurate its just for the idle that i target leaner then normal. (when idling i can see my afr move fr
  5. I always log when my car is running so yeah i do have the log files. But i don't understand your question about if the trace closely to the closed loop afr? First there is no closed loop afr, you have set the afr targets as you want across different RPM's and engine load, for example my car is targeting an afr of 16.7 at idle because at 14.7 it was way to rich (could smell and see the fuel out of my exhaust) Second you set the closed loop control as you want. Mine is set to be only in closed loop below 3000 rpm and below x load. I can run the car completely at open loop if i want, eve
  6. Owwww! Didnt even remember just the normal stuff of exhaust, intake, testpipes i think it was
  7. well that is optional. My car runs 2 widebands sensors connected to a haltech ECU i didn't see any reason to connect a third just for the dyno graph
  8. Cosworth: 11:1 Eagle rods: Cat cams 290 duration 12mm lift (IN) 274 duration 12mm lift (EX) 3.5inch intake 75mm Throttlebody
  9. Guy's i really dont care how much HP its making and if the numbers are correct. The dyno is only a tool for use and not a precise measuring device. There are so many corrections/settings that will influence the numbers its showing. I only care if it is making more power then before.
  10. Well that might be true that the build motor is making less torque then the stock motor at low rpm. My engine is using 290 duration cams with 12mm lift so we had to turn off vvt (that is making power at low rpm) the manufacturer has warned me about is that these cams don't like 3000rpm and below. But I did some research about the dyno last night and most owners of these dyno's use a 15% hp correction for drive train losses we had it set on 5%
  11. No this is engine power and not wheel. We haven't use this dyno much for power sweeps so must of the settings are still on default, incorrect calibrated. So many correction settings are still on the low side and we just updated the software with many new features so still figuring out all the settings. We use this dyno for a base line run and then see how much we can HP we an add and mostly for the tuning part. Will start looking at the new settings and do the run over to see if it gets different results.
  12. @350Butcher do you have by any change a dyno sheet? Would like to compare it to mine.
  13. So last sunday we put to car on the dyno. We now make around 313hp @ 6400 RPM (havent raised the RPM limit yet) and the the torque curve is still going strong, no signs of it going down so thats a big plus. But we have found some small problems. Will listing to the engine we noticed it was very loud and difficult to hear knock so i have to find a solution for that to make sure the engine is not knocking. Because we couldn't listen to knock the timing is on the low side (hence the low HP numbers, below stock timing). The other problem we are having is that i need to upgrade the fuel pu
  14. Finally time for a update. Fixed all the quirks only 2 minor issues left but this Sunday I will do the last tuning part. Timing, and then we finally can see how much power it is making or how big the boom will be
  15. Will be following this, very interesting!
  16. I now can say that all the electrical problems are solved so i can finally finish up the tune! I also have created a short video so you can hear the exhaust sound it produce.
  17. In my opinion is that the charge way to much for the 3.5 or 4 inch. So if you can, you can make your own hardest part is the maf flange. Made my own 3.5 inch (straight pipe, bend silicone hose from 3.5inch to 75mm throttle body)
  18. Holy @*!#! this is awesome!!!
  19. I think i finally found the electrical problem (replaced all the engine wiring), currently the car is running without problems so i can finally fix the tune.
  20. Small update. While the car is up and running we have a small electrical problem. The app and tps sometimes will get incorrect voltages turning the tps off and stalling the engine. The haltech ecu didn't give any voltages back to see which one is causing the problem. So far we have replaced the app sensor, checked the wiring, replaced the fuse box in the engine bay because that one had water damage yet the problem is still not solved I have updated the firmware of the haltech because this might be the one causing the problem. After the update I can finally lo
  21. Back fire or after fire You said that you have changed it over the years to stock, so you can tune it yourself? Do you have wideband sensors? If so you can change the fuel, turn on decel fuel cut (if its off)
  22. Yeah i think the problem is that it is sucking in hot air at idle because the heat can't go anywhere. Should be easily solved Good te hear that your heads are finally done! Can't wait for your build
  23. Photo's from the intake: The intake now is a 3.5 inch steel intake (can't weld aluminium yet) wrapped in heat reflecting tape with underneath a heat shield. The 'heat shield' near the filter is a bucket from a local construction market. Still have some issues with heat soak so gonna change the steel pipe for some plastic pipe to see if that makes a big difference. The other solution will might be a ebay electric intake turbo thingy to give enough cold air to the intake (by blowing away the hot air surrounding it)
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