Colin747

hahhahaha funny you should mention that, first time I ever tried left foot braking I thankfully made sure I was in a large empty area...you'd never think you'd stop that quick when using your left foot.....

I find that tricky as well when practising on the road, I tend to find that I "stab" the brakes a tiny bit by accident when going for the throttle.

Thanks for your reply, a lightweight flywheel is certainly on my list of things to do. It probably doesn't help that I'm normally in heavy boots when trying it haha ahh well, it's all a learning experience

While I understand the theory of heel-toe downshifting I've always wondered if there is a tolerance to what RPM range you should attempt to match or does bringing the engine speed too far over the transmission speed just is damaging? i.e. Should you be within X RPM of the transmission speed when you blip the throttle? To give an example to explain what I mean: Perfect scenario - I'm driving in third at 2,000 RPM and downshift into second. I blip the throttle to 3,000 RPM and when the clutch is released the revs stay at 3,000 RPM (the actual RPM of the transmission). Hypothetical scenario - I'm driving in third at 2,000 RPM and downshift into second. I blip the throttle to 4,500 RPM and when the clutch is released the revs drop to 3,000 RPM (the actual RPM of the transmission). Is that hypothetical scenario causing just as much wear to the clutch compared to not rev-matching at all?

Just wondering has anyone had the rear carbon arches fitted? Just looking some info into how difficult the process is or if any professional bodyshop be able to fit them without problems? These are the ones I'm talking about for reference - http://seiboncarbon.co.uk/products/carbon-fiber-rear-fenders-for-2002-2005-nissan-350z.html

paahhahahahahahaahahahaahahaha we could have a winner here

That's what I was worried about, I've been contemplating sacrificing some livestock to try and appease the Z spirits.

Just wondering if anyone knows where the hole that appears when the handbrake is engaged goes to...and if...say....someone dropped something down there would there be any cause for worry?

While getting the W-Brace replaced on my 350 today my mechanic phoned to say he'd found serious rust and sent a couple of pictures. I'm just wondering if anyone has come across something similar and if anyone would have any idea what the costs involved in fixing this would be? My mechanic mentioned that the rear suspensions and fuel tank may have to be removed to establish how extensive of a repair will be needed.

You should get a nice difference with all that, as far a Z's go, can I ask you post up the dyno chart after you get it done?

Thanks, yea I forgot to mention it's for daily driving with the odd track day.

Well my MOT is in a few weeks so I guess that'll be one way to find out haha Thanks

Cheers, my worry would be that there's worn out OE bushes about (100k miles, 2003). How many hours labor do you think would be in fitting the full kit?

So excuse the staggering ignorance in the following post but when I was in getting my 350 aligned the bolts were seized. I'm planning on replacing these but wanted to upgrade my bushes while I am at it. Now my question is what bushes would be the best to upgrade in terms of "feeling" the difference when driving? As much as I want to go and buy this I'd shudder at the cost of labor, never mind the cost of the kit itself. https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension-steering/bushes/864-350z-prothane-total-suspension-kit-14-200714-2007-bl.html

The "pops and bangs" aren't as loud and intrusive as you think. I don't think I've noticed mine with daily driving at all, I've a '03 DE.

I think they were a later option for the roadsters, this thread might help: http://www.350z-uk.c...50z-seat-types/ I think you could only get them if you upgraded the orange leather, could be wrong though.

You wouldn't remember the make/model of your bonnet would you?

I bought them locally (Kerrs Tyres, Newtownards), will probably order online next time but was in a hurry and was just handier.

I've had them for about three months now, over the moon with them but to be fair they're the first proper performance tyre I've had on a car so I may not be the best judge! I've not had any unexpected tail out incidents on them, even in the pouring rain and wheel spin is a thing of the past if that's any use haha

Great bit of info there, many thanks!

ahh OK, I always assumed it was the other way around....thinking back this explains a lot haha

Would anyone have an idea what pressure these should be running at for stock Ray sizes? I know there's a lot of factors but just a base line for on the road to start with would be a help for me.

Can anyone confirm if the screws that are used to hold the drivers window switch panel, the one behind the drivers door handle, and the ones that hold the arm rest handle (the one the window switch is attached to) to the door card are all the same size?

Sorry guys i've gotten completely sidetracked the last couple of weeks, will try tonight to use some clay to see if I can remove it. Might pick up some of those sponge things from Tesco as well just in case.

Do you have High-Flow/Performance cats installed as well?