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I think I’ve posted this in the wrong section? And somehow double posted. If that’s the case, is a mod able to move this to the correct for sale section? Thanks

Product info. Located near East Sussex but I can deliver https://www.torqen.uk/nissan/370z/intakes/intakes-system/3345-370z-z1-motorsports-cold-air-intake-kit-370zz1intk.html

It costs £500 to buy today at Torqen website. £300 delivered to UK. With original box and instructions. Purchased from Torqen UK, less than 1 year old and done around 4,000 miles. The filters don’t even need cleaning yet. This offers the same gains as the Stillen G3 and all the other CAI designs with the filters at the front. It’s a bit easier to install as it has more silicone and I chose it as it has more silicone and less aluminium for less heatsoak. It made 360bhp with Ark Grip and ART decat pipes. If you’ve got a reasonably quiet exhaust setup, it gives a nice induction note over stock which you can hear in this video:

It costs £500 to buy today at Torqen website. £300 delivered to UK. With original box and instructions. Purchased from Torqen UK, less than 1 year old and done around 4,000 miles. The filters don’t even need cleaning yet. This offers the same gains as the Stillen G3 and all the other CAI designs with the filters at the front. It’s a bit easier to install as it has more silicone and I chose it as it has more silicone and less aluminium for less heatsoak. It made 360bhp with Ark Grip and ART decat pipes. If you’ve got a reasonably quiet exhaust setup, it gives a nice induction note over stock which you can hear in this video:

Get a GT Edition or 2012 plate onwards if it’s in budget, if you’ve not already chosen one. As well as the darker alloys and GT Edition vinyl it has fully revised and improved suspension/handling, sound deadening to rectify the road noise - the rear dash cam is really useful too. Many second hand owners don’t seem to realise its an entirely different production model/Edition that was released, independently reviewed etc - though the upgrades are not hugely significant. It’s not quite going to be a Nismo all round different car upgrade but, but the revised suspension alone was a great improvement. The GT Editions listed new at 35k, up to 5k ontop of a regular Z. The so many various editions that don’t offer much more than colours etc, some get confused and value it the same as a regular GT - as they don’t know any better. I got mine last year for 18k, £2300 cat back and HFC on it, and remapped too FTW! Virtually mint condition all over and 16,000 miles, mainly from 2nd owner, the first owner sold it after only 1-2kMiles or so. So just by chance at the time, I think I got a bargain. Only after did I research and I realised it was a bit superiority the regular GTs. Best thing to do is as I did, buy one with reputable mods already on the car. Also it’s not cheap but the 2015-2018 nismo kit bolts onto a regular Z

Of course I have two different dyno charts and sheets. 360bhp is based on 313.5whp approx on the hub dyno then multiplied by 15%. Or even 311whp x 1.15 = 357bhp. What the exact drivechain loss is I don’t know, Abbey would know better and might say it’s more accurately like 355bhp. But mine made pretty much the same 313/314 peak whp on the same Abbey dyno 1 year apart. On a same day before & after comparison my stock intake setup proved to give better overall gains and torque than the Z1 CAI I had installed before it, and no real loss top end, depending on where the markers are set. Its quite possible for the CAIs to make 2-3bhp more top end but comparing my two dynos, it seems like you sacrifice a bit of power throughout the Rev range and a bunch more torque too. It seems like only at the redline these CAIs make their claimed figures. My setup is by no means optimised either. There are 3” cat backs and other less restrictive systems than my Ark Grip, I have stock TBs and no headers or upgrades inlet manifolds. If you look into the Z1 400bhp kit, at least in the states they claim somewhere near 400bhp is possible. I’ve not seen anything near that over here and that’s only if you’re willing to spend considerably more money on upgrading the headers, larger TBs, both top and bottom inlet porting upgrades or the Motordyne M370. If we assume my car made even 355bhp with stock intake (ish) setup, ART decat pipes and Ark Grip, then 370bhp is certainly possible with the upgrades I mentioned. I think the Motordyne shockwave or a true 3” could give another 5-10 bhp on it’s own. My Fast intentions Cat back was less restrictive in design, but too loud for me. Ive been told by Abbey that even the newest 370Z nismo, in reality and on the dyno does not make more than a regular 370Zs 330bhp or so. It doesn’t make much sense to me either when they advertise and claim to make 345-350bhp out of the factory right? I think Mark might have said they are allowed a certain margin for error. 370Zs tend to fall short of claimed figures anyway. The Nismo is still quicker because it has a shorter final drive ratio, it might be a bit lighter too. The Nismo exhaust is a bit more free flowing but not as much as Aftermarket options. I’ve not seen any dyno charts of Nismos, stock or otherwise. But I think aside from the FD, they have virtually the same potential for engine output once remapped. I have the full nismo body kit installed anyway, I love the seats and it has superior chassis, handling etc but otherwise I don’t think a Nismo is that much faster to justify buying a new one. But if you do have the budget and want the best, I can see why it’s appealing, for the appearance alone.

If anyone is interested, I returned to stock setup with silicone hoses and hybrid panel filters. I did not really lose any power, it made about the same peak but it did make some small gains in power throughout the Rev range, as much as you can expect from changing an intake. However I seemed to gain 10-15lbft torque in some areas from 3000k onwards. That is enough to be noticeable, and the curve seems to vary compared to others, probably because I’ve got a ART Decat pipes, as opposed to HFCs. it pulls a bit harder from 3k onwards for sure, and also slightly earlier whereas before it was just not as responsive on the throttle until you got beyond 4000rpm. What provides the gains in torque I don’t know for sure but I can only assume heatsoak was a factor and as Mark has said, the stock setup seems to yield better results overall. I can’t explain why the dude in the OP still got around 10whp peak over mine, comparing my decat vs HFC, I’m not even sure which cat back is less restrictive Ark Grip or the other quite different designs like Stillen, cobra etc. But I know with some mods you can sacrifice top end for midrange also, and vice versa. A 3” cat back would gain another 5-10bhp in addition over a 2.5”, if you can deal with the noise. But otherwise it’s probably just normal variation between different engines. I know on the Honda K20s, higher mileage beyond 50k are known to make more power than lower mileage engines. But that’s just another theory. It was never going to offer any dramatic gains but mainly to satisfy my curiosity and with regard to the claims made by Stillen etc. Now I have been able to compare a CAI to the stock setup, I would not waste my money buying one again. The graph is pretty clear but the difference is still negligible if you just consider peak numbers. I’m sure other cars with Stillen G3 and similar CAIs can gain a few extra bhp top end bouncing on the limiter , but on my graph and in my case you can see that it’s simply not worth it - and slightly misleading too. The heat coming from the aluminium intake pipes was just pissing me off anyway lol. So i’ll be selling my Z1 CAI. I can highly recommend Scott/Mark, the guys at Abbey. I had a service and other bits that needing fixing at the same time. Very professional corrrespondance throughout, hassle-free and money well spent. i’ll be back again for whiteline bushes and anything else I can think of. Ive not looked into it at all but I think the best performance mod at this point would be shorter a FD when my clutch goes.

I drive a manual but wouldn’t say no to the paddle shifting, those lightening gear changes must be fun and make the car a lot quicker. My 370Z is around 360bhp with the exhaust/intake mods, once remapped it gains a fair bit of usable torque and is a fair bit faster than any stock 370Z and more competitive. It just about rivals today’s hot hatches, but A shorter final drive like in the Nismo would have been great. It’s not the fastest car to chose if you want outright performance such as 400bhp+ but the car/ V6 engine has more character and is more fun than alternatives that so can think of sub 15k-20k. I paid 18k for a low mileage 2011 GT Edition and stuck a 2015-2018 nismo kit on to make it look a bit fresher. I think the GT Edition list price was 35k new but if I had 30k budget, I’d not buy a brand new one or a nismo either when there’s so many other V6, V8s namely the BMWs etc within budget that are equally as fun and faster.

Oh and I did notice the sound difference installing the Z1, but I don’t notice it anymore. I’ve got ART Pipes with Ark Grip which is louder than the induction, unless you stick a Go Pro on the bumper I can’t hear it or rather distinguish it. Im sure it would be very loud and audible with a stock exhaust system, but everyone knows the stock exhaust setup is too quiet and doesn’t do the car/engine any justice. Adding either a HFC or an aftermarket CBE, as opposed to both would be a good balance in order to hear both induction and some of the caustic/engine character. I swapped my superior Fast Intentions Carbon CBE for the quieter Ark Grip, probably lost a few bhp there but also swapped a FI HFC for the Art Pipes. Any louder than this combo/setup and the cold starts would **** the neighbours right off. If I had stock cats I’d love a Motordyne Shockwave. I’ll sell my Z1 with the wrap if any buyer wants to use it. Those rolls of tape are expensive lol. I actually chose the Z1 intentionally because it has a longer section and proportion of silicone, so I had the right idea anyway. Compared to Stillen G3 which has less silicone and more aluminium. It may be necessary for the structural integrity but If these CAIs were designed with 90% silicone or other special plastic like the skunk2 Intakes then heatsoak wouldn’t be much of an issue. I think the IATs would be much lower, in conjunction with the larger filters and more air/volume they’d work great and not be inhibited by it’s own heatsoak! If it’s still snowing when remapped then i’ll fill the engine bay with snow, that will surely help! Or stick the filters in the freezer the night before lol One more thing, Im trusting and going with the recommendations from Abbey. obviously they know what they’re doing and they said the HKS Hybrid dry panel filters are the best option. I just guessed that K&N oiled filters were as good as anything else, until being advised otherwise that dry is better etc. So these HKS seem fine to me, nice colour but when I search m I’ve heard various conflicting claims on their longevity. Are they not like K&Ns that you can simply clean and reuse each year? I’ve got a K&N kit. I see many on here also use the HKS Hybrid and have got a modest and minor expected 1-2bhp improvement over OEM disposable. However I also read some really old topics and posts from HKS themselves sayibg that said they need replacing like every 3000 miles or several times a year lol? I emphasise these were very old topics, maybe on 350Zs or an older design. But for £130 a pair, surely these are washable, reusable each year and they do not require replacing up to 3 times a year? As long as that’s the case I’m down with that, with mishimoto intake hoses. It can’t be that complicated right? I’m even considering gold wrapping the stock boxes and mishimoto hoses. I’ve not had a good look at the induction design and where it draws its air, but I’ve been told it’s efficient. I might Add another 10 layers and 2” thick gold heat reflective wrap around the system, for bling peace of mind lol. Whilst I’m at it, does anybody create custom cold air feeds to Intakes or breaks etc. I don’t need the brakes but whilst I’ve got the bumper off i’ll consider anything else just for fun. Let me know if anything looks wrong btw, my mechanic said it was beneficial to fit the oil cooler and transmission, power steering or whatever cooler it is on different and opposing sides, contrary to instructions for better air flow. Which makes sense. It’s a decent Stillen thermostatic oil cooler, 21 row I think and I don’t track the car but I was told out the factory, 370z runs too hot for any fast hard driving. I think they later added a cooler as standard?

As you know, silicone is the best choice for intake tubing. A half arsed effort wouldn't make any difference but I wrapped the whole thing well enough that it might have worked enough as I described, 3- 4 layers of gold wrap too. But it’s just theory until somebody tests it out the IATs. Sorry to the mods, I don’t remember which video I posted, I guess it was me accelerating up to speed on a road. Although I do actually have some other videos recorded on the autobahn as I drove through Europe down to Italy last summer in my 370, and in my FN2 the year before that.

I can relate to this, I lost my engine induction note when I supercharged. But thankfully it was replaced with an awesome and very loud charger whine, which leaves people very confused when you overtake etc. Btw I’ve never known how to calculate the torque from the charts. Do you devide it by something? Using earlier guys chart as a comparison, what’s the torque as it surely isn’t over 1000lbft

Yeah I’m not new to modding, I had a supercharged 340bhp CT supercharged FN2 and EP3 before that and I know everything about the K20s etc. Many in the Honda scene also make mistakes buyinh short RAM Intakes etc. The K20s probably don’t run nearly as hot. however the top performing Intakes are actually long CAIs made from plastic or silicone in the case of Hybrid Racing. There is no metal to get heated up and the filter is placed in front of the bumper as you’d expect. Even on my supercharged charged cooled FN2, the CAI being made of silicone would get warm but nothing like the temp of metal. You could place your hand on the MAF intake hose no problem and not get burned. On the 370Z the metal is so hot it would pretty much melt your hand if you tried to do the same. So in my experience on those cars a CAI that’s made of plastic/silicone isn’t heatsoaking so much that it negates the gains, unlike Stillen G3, Z1 etc. Also, the majority of the CTR forum community are aware of what works and what doesn’t. Whenever I see modded 370Zs, like the one on page 1, they nearly always have Stillen G3 or one of the CAIs. So i’m not the only one any way

Lol it’s not that I don’t want to listen at all, and I am not surprised but obviously the idea is conflicting with Stillen G3 and all the others promoting their product. It’s not even a big deal when the difference might be max 10bhp. it’s just a bit of a misconception which not everyone is aware about. I think a majority of forum members also have one of the CAIs, the Stillen G3 being most popular. And when you’re on Tarmacsportz website for example, they’re only selling the products and using the manufacturers description with the claimed gains etc. So before I had even spoken to any tuner I’ve already bought a Z1 because, right or wrong the CAIs appear to be the best option unless you really do some research. You expect colder/dense air to give gains and many happy to spend £500+ on the products with those expectations. They’re just not mentioning like “BTW the aluminium pipes will become hot as **** and the resulting heatsoak might be somewhat counter productive. “ I don’t actually know whether my silicone and gold heat wrap efforts made any difference or improvements at all, without testing IATs. Like you say the insulation works both ways and the lack of airflow might result in the pipes underneath to heat up slower but also cool down the pipes slower. But it made sense in theory that the air enters the filters at a cooler temp then becomes increasingly hotter as it goes through the engine bay. So insulating the pipe with layers of heat reflective tape and silicone should serve as a barrier against the engine bay heat under the bonnet. If the temp of the aluminium itself reduces then that would lower the heatsoak/transfer to the air within. When I tested and compared surface temps, the insulated side was considerably lower temp. The temp decrease was reduced further up towards the TBs because of various contact points. Ultimately at higher speed it might be more effective. Because even at 100mph the airflow isn’t enough to cool down the pipes or stop them getting hot. But with the insulation it might tip the balance so that increased airflow might become sufficient enough to reduce the overall engine bay temp. Mostly generated by the engine but it’s not being heated up further by hitting two hot intake pipes. Whether it’s significant enough to make a difference, I’ve no idea. Anyway, as suggested and since I need a service..I’m taking my Z1 off and remapping with the stock setup with mishimoto silicone hoses and drop in filter. Maybe I’ll get around 323whp like the chart few pages back, or maybe not. I’ll do it for fun anyway and shouldn’t have difficulty selling the Z1

Yep. I was only by the claimed figures lol but you are correct again. That really sux to buy a nismo then and make 320odd bhp WITH HFCs. although I’d like the shorter FD. If someone links me to this device/app that will show IAT then i’ll give it s test. They are very very well insulated with 3” silicone and layers of gold rap. but ofcourse it contacts metal in various places as you go further up. When more air is flowing it must lower heatsoak, but obviously not enough for the metal intake temp to be cooled significantly. My insulation might tip the balance so that the airflow through the engine is now sufficient to cool down the insulated pipes, or maintain a lower IAT. So in theory the air within the CAIs remainscooler to some degree and less heatsoaked. The silicone does still gets warm with airflow like cruising at 60mph, but not nearly as hot as the exposed aluminium piping which also takes ages too cool down. I could have put even more layers of tape or silicone but it is already so much thicker and wider than it was before. Also the is a small gap in most sections between the silicone and the gold wrapped pipe, help would also help. I’ve got a thermometer I’m gonna see what I can determine. I can check my temps in different conditions if you guys can tell me what the typical temp should be. As I have no mechanical skills and won’t remove it. Maybe Mark can remember the typical temps with CAI vs the stock plus drop ins?

Oh I know debating 10bhp is silly. I’ve also heard that the air passes through so quickly that it doesn’t warm up. But if what you’ve said is true, it doesn’t explain why stock intake outperforms the CAIs on the dynos. I think 10bhp is quite significant from the intake alone considering it’s NA. And certainly if it saves buying a £400+ CAI that doesn’t do anything

Bumping an old thread. I was sceptical but on my remap Mark proved to be correct about CAI vs stock Intakes. Simply touching the aluminium for a second, I can’t deny that it’s too hot to even place your hand on it. And no plastic or silicone will get that hot. My Z1 CAI kit did not seem to contribute to the gains from my other mods. However, im still confused as in the states, on their forums you hear a very different and contradicting theory. it’s seems pretty much indisputable that the stillen, Z1, AAM style CAIs etc are indeed considered to be the most effective Intakes. With gains of at least 10bhp over stock setup (dependent on existing mods) which sounds reasonable with larger “cold air” filters. I mean literally everyone chooses one of the CAI options, Z1 promotes it in their 400bhp kit. There’s no mention of heatsoak in the states or any conflicting opinions or alternatives. All of them including the manufacturers like stillen themselves, agree that these CAI performs as it claims. Certainly, I’ve never heard the idea that stock intake provides better gains, or that the CAIs are in fact detrimental with due to heatsoak. So something doesn’t add up, as the 350/370Z scene over there is surely much bigger than ours. They cannot all be entirely deluded and misled. Or the general consensus and concept of the CAI over there is basically a scandal of false claims lol. I mean there’s so many dynos over there, somebody would have realised by now if their stock intakes out performs the CAI. But like I said, as much as I’ve read I’ve not seen any threads or posts that challenge or question the possibility. Yet as I said, my pipes were hot as ****. And there’s no doubt that any gains from design, larger filters, bigger intake pipes, velocity stack is at least somewhat negated by heatsoak. They even go further and sell products that are upgrade add ons for your existing CAI. And they are also dyno proven claimed to add another 5-10bhp! Simply by repositioning the filter positions slightly and using even larger filters. Looking at Darren’s 323whp it seems consistent to confirm that in my case, the Z1 CAI was the weak factor robbing my precious NA bhp. Considering I expect my setup would otherwise provide similar gains. It should even be a bit less restrictive in comparison.I’ve got ART Decat Pipes as opposed to Cobra HFCs. As with most cars, I would expect a decat to give at least 5bhp over a pair HFCs. Not a huge difference but even with the most highest flowing 200 Cell HFCs...logically and visibly they must be more restrictive and give several bhp less than a decat. In terms of exhaust, I have Ark Grip CBE, which as far as I know and based on design would be similar in performance compared with a milktek. I don’t know if one is better but I know other larger bore CBEs like AAM/motordyne Shockwave would outperform both, by another 5-10bhp (as a guess!) I had fast intentions on before and that was less restrictive but too loud. So we are left with my Z1 CAI vs Darren’s stock intake with K&N filters. All mods considered this appears to be the biggest factor. I wonder if I would gain 5-10bhp by reverting to the same stock setup with drop in filters. 10bhp is petty and not enough to justify the cost I know lol. but since I’m due a service anyway I am sad enough to consider doing the switch and remap anyway. Also my car was remapped on the hottest day of last year, around 32C. If it had been Like 0 to -2 degrees like the current night temps I might have gained another 5bhp lol I still cannot explain all the contradictory claims and dyno charts it in the states. And TarmacSportz etc are happy to recommend and sell the products? backing up the claims too. Could it be possible that these CAIs do generally function as intended in normal outdoor road conditions. But might be more susceptible to heatsoak and less functional in an enclosed dyno room? I know all dynos have huge fans to compensate for air flow, and even with the bonnet open, but how many fans does it take to accurately replicate road conditions? I’ve no idea and it’s just a theory. I know all dynos are different and any margin of error between any dynos comparisons wouldnt prove anything. But I’d be interested to know if TDI north non hub dyno rollers also demonstrate that CAIs are useless? Ive been there twice with my hondas, they map Zs too. Silicone/plastic Long CAIs are undeniably the best options for the Type Rs and K20s. Hybrid racing and skunk2 for the FN2. There’s some distance between them but I always see tdi recommending Abbey with the ECUtek so im guessing there’s some partnership or something. They don’t map nearly as many Zs and don’t quite match the experience and knowledge of Abbey or Horsham. but CAIs are basic stuff and Paul West will definitely have some knowledge to give an opinion. On the functionality of our CAIs, based on some of their customers. If he also condemns CAIs then I might take mine out and burnt it Or sell it to an American heres my attempts at reducing heatsoak btw. It’s quality 3” silicone with thick walls which I managed to wrap around the majority of the aluminium. And then I covered that in layers of the best gold heat reflecting tape. 3 or 4 layers in some areas on it. I tested one side first to compare , and the surface temp was 60c on the aluminium but half that 30C on my heatsoak protected effort. Which doesn’t mean the aluminium underneath is the same temp but it definitely helps. just comparing the silicone couplers there was a significantly lower surface temp. But as you go further up towards the TBs there’s more metal to metal contact which reduces the difference. But at speed the airflow might now have an easier job of keeping the cold or cold, as it flows within the pipes that are now very well insulated and less exposed to heatsoak from the engine bay

Ok. Went on a trip around Europe as far down as Italy. Didn't get loads of pics apart from my car at different angles. Saw plenty of supercars too. I learned to drive quiet well on the mountain roads with Mich PSS4s and ok the motorways it feels real planted, even at 165mph. I'm sure that nismo kit does wonders for the downforce and aero @ highspeeds, regular roadster with 30bhp over me could not keep up over 100 odd. I think the roof down is terrible for Aero

Already chaps. I'm sure I mentioned I had a few plans I'm well gone by now to be honest but I'll see what I can do So I tested my theory, covering one side almost only with an 80mm silicone and then 4 layers on gold tape in areas., others 3 layers. It had to be trimmed down as it was too long and so it could slot over the censors etc. Actually my uncle did the work mainly for me with my supervision, and because I don't do mornings. But it's pretty straight forward. So I then I went for a 20 min drive, mainly cruising & casual driving but finally 2nd gear pull up to 120mph or so and then 10 mins later I stopped to compare both temps., and the results were great. First of all I'll say again this was more regular drive, not to test in more extreme conditions and taking the engine to its limit. I.e even hotter! Without a thermometer, just by placing my hand on both sides it was immediately apparent that the regular Aliminium was too hot to hold onto for more than 3-4 seconds. Normally it would have been even hotter, it was warmish today but on a hot day the aluminium section can literally become too hot to touch really for more than 1 second! So moving onto the wrapped part, touch the largest diameter section, it was was surprisingly only Just what one would consider to be warm. For example like when you touch your central heating radiotors and you can just about feel a bit of warm to indicate it definitely is on, but it's only just warming up. I couldn't get any result at first because its infrared thermometer and it was acting as a mirror refecting it and messing it up. When we did locate an area on the underside, we were able to get a proper figure. When we checked it l, it was was more than we expected. And considering the heat had a few minutes at least to cool down too. As you can see from the numbers, the unmodifed aluminium was over double the temp higher in degrees Celsius. compared with the right hand side extra insulated with silicone tubing over it followed by 3-4 layers of the Gold fancy heat deflector tape. Both the silicone and tape were of the RamAir brand I think. So the results are 31.C Vs around 62 degrees C, and that was at the lower section of the induction kit, the temperature increases further up towards the TBs. Even the short silicone section left hand side where it says Z1 logo, the temp was still around 15-20C hotter than the golden intake section. I also think the difference in temps would have been even larger if I had got the engine to even higher temps, like you'd encounter on track sessions etc. So logically assuming, the cooler air begins going through the filters at front bumper, and as it flows through the aluminium piping, the surface temp of that piping itself I now much lower. Thats because it now has layers of silicone and the gold tape covering it and giving heat protection. I think this could have actually been made even more effective. Because I think, adding even more silicone I.e the thicker or simply more layers of silicone you add , plus the the wrap, just reduces heat transfer further and further until it barely becomes as any hotter than when behins at the source at the filters. I know the air travelling through the induction is very fast WOT and so the differences in surface temp is definitely not the true or accurate reduction in IATs, but I'd like to think even just a minimum of 30c reduction of the outside of the outer surface temp must gain a few BHPs!

I already posted here but I dunno why it didn't post lol. I wrote a huge post but I cba writing it all again lol

It seems like tapatalk does not work on here anymore? Well time for an update. I fitted a genuine nismo spoiler, I should have said no. And stopped spending, but sometimes you gotta think it's now, or possibly never in regards to rare a opportunity/item for sale. Whens another used MK2 nismo spoiler gonna appear in white?? So I'm satisfied with that purchase and the overall exterior of the car is complete for me, really pleased with the wheels also, I seem to be getting more attention and head turns although I don't see what else there is to do bodywork wise unless there's some nice vented bonnets I don't know about. But I'd rather keep the factory nismo look. And I honesty quite like the OEMs now they're matte black. I had Stillen thermostatic oil cooler and power steering coooler? Fitted on Monday with 25mm spacers all round which improved the look a lot. Also Z1 induction kit which was the last engine mod to be fitted. Come to Wednesday and it's remapping time at Abbey Motorsport. I was a bit late and it was a long hot day, there's **** all to do in oxted. So we all have our expectations as to what figures we want, and I got less than I expected, 313.5 at hubs pretty much 360bhp if you've multiply by 15%. Maybe it's less than that I dunno if 15% is the proper figure. I expected the Fast Intentions CBE to Ark switch to lose a few BHP. I expected the FI HFCs to motordyne ART Pipes to gain at least 5 BHP, maybe more. And then finally I Expected Z1 to gain at least 10bhp over stock. Although I can't be sure what had most influence powerwise, the mapping dude (Mark I think?) told me to touch the Z1 aluminium pipe, which I did and as you'd expect it was too hot for me to keep my hand on. Just a few centimetres away and the Z1 silicone coupler part was warm but much colder than the aluminium, which being directly connected would have contributed to the increase surface temp. So in my eyes, yes it was a hot day (27. C) and the dyno may not be 100% the same as a real scenario driving at high speed, but without a doubt the heatsoak prevented me getting s higher figure like 360+ nearer 370. I have heard the stock setup with a panel filter provided less, but cooler air in some scenarios. He told me I'd have most likely made more with the factory box that I'd had fitted 2 days earlier What annoys me most is I've been moaning about that flawed design ever since I joined the forums. I asked, why not make it entirely silicone or other plastics resistant to heat. Because comparing surface temp of metal to the silicone pipe, there is a huge difference. Further up the intake towards the TB it's it's hottest. So it begins entering the filters Infront of the bonnet reasonably cool but as soon as it passes the from the silicone to the metal, the IATs increase dramatically. Which defeats the point of a CAI. Seeing that about 5-6 manufacturers all use the same design I was sleptical l but I figured I must be somewhat wrong and chose the Z1 as appearance wise it has the most amount of silicone compared to Stillen for example which is almost entirely aluminium? Mine may have been an isolated case as I've heard many reports of gains from these Intakes but perhaps they're attributed to the wrong part, or the dyno room was particularly hot that day. There is no way that a metal intake pipe as hot as it was, would result in a good IATs and thus gains in bhp. I gained torque elsewhere in the range of course but it wasn't the peak number I expected. The ECUtek adjustable maps and TC are great, also the throttle response. I did specify 99 RON but I think he assumed it was 98. And so, without reverting back to the OEM factory enclosed box I begin begin wondering if there are any solutions. The obvious being replace all the metal with a more suitable durable and insulating plastic or silicone which I've seen in other Honda kits, On my old supercharged FN2 I had a CAI entirely made of silicone it never got more than warm. These engines don't run nearly as cool anyway. So to clarify, and without sounding like I'm chasing pub figures, it's obvious this metal section of the kit with the air flowing through its, simply heats it up the IATs again, even higher than ambient. They might provide more power top end at high speed due to bringing more actual air in than stock, but it's hot air. To call these cold air intakes is bollocks really, say CAI then try hold your hand on the pipe for more than a second and you'll get your hand scolded. if I could effectively protect the cool air until it reaches the TB I would expect big differences in IAT. If I could DIY a replacement I would but I don't have time. Even using your hands alone you can determine there's quite a difference in temps comparing the silicone to the aluminium. So I've a few days to resolve this heatsoak, reduce it or eliminate if it's even possible. This will be a test purely to measure the surface temps, on the surface of each intake tube at the same time, maybe one area or maybe several. One being the regular pipe, the other side being wrapped as much and as thick as possible in silicone and gold wrap to increase insulation and keep the air feed cool for longer as it reaches the throttle bodies. They will cool at different rates and so after a run i'll comparing surface temps on both at the same time. with the regular Z1 pipe, the majority of the middle section has enough clearance to be made pretty damn fat and as insulated as possible. It won't be as good as replacing the aluminium altogether tho. Its gonna be tough to do and so whilst most use gold or silver protection tape exclusively, I'm all going to use thick silicone also where possible. The thicker the layers the less heat transfer. I've ordered various sizes but the main central section should be wrapped in 1CM silicone, no problem, I've got thinner sizes too. So in addition to the gold tape, which claims 80% heat reflection or resistance etc the silicone increases the barrier between the cool air and engine bay heat. . If I had more time I'd buy a Z1 intake house and mods to fit and replace the entire aluminium but I don't have time. So the areas with little space will be covered in thinner silicone and gold wrap. The thicker the better. It will of course look retarded but afterwards it will all be blinged up in gold wrap anyways. Once the right side is done I'll compare surface temp to the regular aluminium. If there is a significant differences in surface temps between the two then im gonna assume itd doing its job and that also the air inside is remaining cooler, being less exposed and more protected. Again, if the results are good, I'll repeat the process of the other side and I can assume I'm getting cooler air from the front bumper all the way into the engine. Don't ask me the formula but if been told as little as 11F could result in 1 BHP

Yeah it's a V2 spoiler with original factory paint and it seems to match perfect. The rest of my parts seem to be matching better as they get bleached slightly buy the sun. I never even new the nismo lights were like tinted darker or whatever until nathan told me. So it may be I prefer the head lights as they are. I'll have to look at more legit nismo to decide. Either way it's probably too hard and beyond my capability. So unless the nismo head lights make a big impression on me they stay the same. I've got / sets of spacers to go on with Z1 induction kit, 2 Stillen coolers. As it is, I personally like the OEM 370z wheels painted matte back, not even lying and I've yet to fit spacers. Some might not agree with me but I think it looks better. Maybe some rota grid drifts or something in matte would look even better. In person when you can see the wheels clearly it looks better. Does anyone know, like on my EP3 and FN2 engine mounts you could add more rigid inserts that instantly improved gear shifting. and that was just fitting one pair on a mount, leaving the various other mounts stock as each one increases cabin vibration. Is there a part like that made of polyethylene or whatever that makes gear changing better on my Z, without causing the cabin the vibrate loads more. I'm not having issues changing gear but the box is not as slick as Hondas I'm afraid, which you can change gear with your little finger Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Added another feature. added. It's quite subtle, see if you can spot it ðŸ‘ðŸ»ðŸ˜Š Rubbish photos looks better if you zoom in a bit

Is it a three or a 4? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I don't mind paying a bit more labour to swap over stock cats and back again. I can ask how many hours they charged for the stock cat swapping alone ? Although HFCS don't take away loads of bhp buy in my experience with typeRs and high revving K20s, even a single 200cell cat would lose a significant amount of power and torque, depending on the engine output. Our cars two cats, so I expected my twin ART decats to provide decent gains over any pair of 200cell HFCs. Especially you look inside at how dense the cells are within the core. I hope my suspicions are correct any way 😊 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Either it wasn't heated up or if you take them off and check the core metal substrates as they ****ed up. 200 cell needs to be heated up i reckon😩and inky my just to borderline pass, any any deterioration of the core it it won't be passed unless you're able to repair buy a replacement . I had fast Intentions HFC 300cell which was which easier to pass emissions due to its higher cell count. And the previous owner said for years it passed every time. When I inspected the core, I was surprised when it appeared fully function and no signs of wear at all , like I could do another 5 years drivingand MOTs. now have have motordyne ART decats installed for increased bhp and it sounds better. It can't possibly pass emissions now but it did not turn the EML on or anything Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk