GodISmE

My fav HR build thread worldwide these days! Can't wait for more Good job Martin!

Hey man, glad to see you finishing the build that we've talked about so much a while ago! I have a few questions for you, I'll pm you. Need a bit of help with mine.

I'm thinking about installing that VDC delete box. Does it really remove ABS entiely? I've tried to remove it once and I was locking the tires a lot! Can you adjust front to rear braking bias with this thing? My front calipers keep overheating and the rear pads last for a ling time - even 2-3 front brake pad changes, so there is something wrong.

I I'm on 20/9kg and it still feels too soft at the front! Brian Lock is on 26/11 in his 370z race car. How's your engine build by the way? I finally got my hands on used PPE headers and I will be doing a custom CAI soon. Hoping to hit well over 400hp with those!

Damn that rally 370z has LOTS of traction. Amazing. Where can I find the car specs? Finished my new NA engine build a few weeks ago Around 412 hp (crank) with stock intakes and headers for now. Should be over 430hp with PPE and custom made CAI. VHR bottom, my old HR heads, 280/272 Tomei cams, lightweight CP pistons and compression increased to 1:11,6. What are your plans ?

It's the yaw sensor you're looking for guys If you install a switch, TC and VDC/ESP stays off until you turn the engine off and back on. BTW. Do any of you know the guys running UK Time Attack? E. g. Simon Slade?

I made this little switch Works like a charm and I can't imagine driving on a track with this thing on @350Butcher your beefed up steering wheel is on a wrong side mate! ;P As far as my engine mods are concerned, I've ordered Tomei 272/11,3 (i) / 272/11 (e) cams, Mike Upton's 3" intakes with velocity strack filters and Z1 shorties. If my buddy Coobcio Garage - our national treasure that builds 4.0L NA hr and 4.3L NA vhr - gives me a good deal on 3,7L, I'll probably go for it! I am organising this little series over here (www.timeattackpoland.pl) for the first time and I could use some proper engine mods and aero to show off my ride! We're like 10 yrs beind you guys! (www.timeattack.co.uk) Savanna's car is my benchmark (except for the engine swap)

Just the fronts (AP Racing)? I am waiting for that 3.7L now!

I was complementing your dyno results there and the fact that the curve goes up to the end and does not go down after 6500rpm Yes, factory squerties were deleted for clearance but the custom made connecting rods have channels that let oil flow to the pistons (not sure what the technical term is for that). Ratio is 1,592. I am thinking about this too but I just can't justify the cost of it. 3,7L is easier and cheaper but I have a feeling that I will be thinking about 4.0 sooner or later so why not go for it now. This tuner said that if he was to do it again, he would use the crankshaft from GTR to get to 3.8L and increased it to 4.15L by widening the cylinders and using different pistons. Whay do you think? What parts are needed to do the 3,7L conversion? Will you be buying new crankshaft and rods from 370z?

Becasue he's probably the first and only person that built such an engine. It's HR block, pistons and heads with Pathfinder's crankshaft and custom made rods with oil channels. Up and running well already PS. Note that stock HR is usually 290-293hp at his dyno. http://forum.nissanklub.pl/index.php/topic/104200-funlady-z-350z-by-h8r-with-hr/page-5

Go for 4.0L straight away! Not much more expensive and you'll get close to 400 bhp. My tuner has just built such an engine for one of my buddies: rebalanced crankshaft from 4.0L Pathfinder, custom made connecting rods, JWT cams, deleted oil squerties, 12.2:1 compression.

You will want more spring in front after a few track days. I have 14/6 kg right now and the car is getting soft. Thinking about switching to 18/9kg next year. Those red springs are a lot longer compared to my Swifts!

https://www.flickr.com/photos/140723002@N05/shares/g69h2Z

What an awesome weekend! The car is now perfectly set up for this track Engine and brakes are still stock but I think 8:10 is possible with less mistakes, more experience and a bit more luck. @350Butcher @WillisRR When are you hitting the RIng?

Listen to this guy!

Easy fix... get on with it and be happy it's the only ****- up with these engines!!!

Are you for real or just trolling? No, they are so not even in performance, not to mention the engine build and technology used!

You brake early based on your videos and you can still push the car a bit more. The problem with Brembos is lack of heat dissipation (small discs) and used Akebonos are the cheapest solution. Of course there are better options like st40 or st60. I myself will have to make this choice next year and I still don't know which kit to get.

Front Brembos are not enough for heavy track driving. Michael Gardner has a really light car and he probably does only 2 to 3 hot laps per session. For that OEM Brembos might be fine. I have brake ducts, good pads, braided lines and good fluid and I had had no problem with the brakes until I started to really push the car and drive at a limit for more than just a couple of laps. I was just boiling the fluid and the pedal was getting soft but I never had typical pad fading issues. Just need to pump the pedal on straights to bring the fluid pressure up which is annoying. Similar to pad knockback but a lot worse. There is a reason why 370z has bigger discs! Akebono upgrade is the cheapest option and you only really need to do it with the front calipers.

I still don't know what you two are talking about lol Yeah, the front vs. rear ratio I get but how do we calculate the wheel frequency and what is the motion rate about? I'd like to understand the physics and the math behind it!

Are you getting sway bars too?

I think that 18/9 could be ok for more experienced drivers - on a flat and fast track and with proper aero. Definitely not the right time for me as this is still my first year with 350z and actually with a track car I will try 18/9 one day as I already have 9's for the rear @MeisterR care to share the math behind that model? I was always wondering what that whole wheel frequency is about but I never had time to learn it. Is there a formula to calculate the right spring rates for a given car weight/tire combo?

Be careful with that Martin. Stance also recommended 14/9 to me (Swift springs on their Supersport coilovers). It was ok until I started to really push the car on tracks and drive at the limit. I found the car extremely loose, especially at corner entry which resulted in a few near spins at a high speed. If it wasn't for my sim experience and knowing how to save it at the last minute, I would probably end up in a wall. Only now with shocks set up to full hard (front) and almost full soft (rear), wider tires at the back (275/35/18 vs 255 at the front) and a removed rear sway bar have I found a relatively good balance. But this is addressing the symptom instead of the root cause. That's why I want to get the balance right with the springs now and put the rear sway bar back on to get some balance setting options. I've already ordered 6kg srpings and I'll start with 14/6. Michael Gardner uses this combo and he seems to be doing quite well

But aero will "add some weight", won't it?

Hey, I'm wondering whether I should go with a rather safe 14/6 or with 18/9? Swift springs on Supersport Stance true coilovers. The car weighs about 1400 right now. No aero yet but I will be adding it in future. Maybe also removing some more weight to get down to 1350 kg.