GodISmE

You've probably actually lost power with this exhaust anyway

Thanks. You mentioned that the billet gears for the oil pump costed 200 pounds. Did you buy them in the UK?

Butcher, is this the Koyo radiator you got? My top fixings have snapped during last weekend's track day so I might as well replace the whole radiator to help with cooling during those hot summer days. https://www.z1motorsports.com/cooling/koyo/07-08-350z-hr-koyo-upgraded-radiator-p-5133.html

I've just been watching this guy's videos. His build is also based on HR with 272/10,8 Tomei cams but he uses 4,08FD and says it's a perfect match with these cams! Looking at how he takes those 3rd gear corners and how well the revs are matched to them, do you think the 3,9 FD will be close enough?

Anyone knows the OEM part number for the brake pump?

Looks like your oil pressure sensor is kaputt, no? Max psi?!

Ok, I got them mixed up! lol AD08r is what you guys are using and I was thinking about A048r.

I will need to buy a set of new semi slicks soon. I can see you both went for A048R (you and butcher). Are they currently the best choice out there when it comes to good lap times and reliability? How do they compare to r888 or r888r?

I know, I know ... definitely returning them under warranty! I read somewhere that they refund a value of the tire depending on how much tread is left, true?

Does that mean I can't go to a track day this Sunday!?! I already booked it

It's only on the inside wall! All the way around. Normal pressure used and only 4 track days! I think they're DOT..14, need to double check.

Guys, what do you think of this!? Just noticed it today. I bought them new last year (268/35/18)

Thanks, I got a used side flange from an older open diff and it seems to be the right length. I don't know if it's the right side though - does it matter? Did you also replace diff's seals and bearings, would you have their part numebrs as well? I've done a lot of reading over the last few days and I think I will eventually go with a 370z crank, 3.7L, 280i/272e cams and long tube headers but not at this stage. I'll stick with a custom built exhaust for a small power NA (2,5'' max) with decats and a stock engine for now. I will probably gut the interior and add a roll cage first - this car will be fast enough for me then. I might add some aero at that stage, we'll see. I will only start modding the engine when I feel like I'm running out of power, which I don't think is going to be sooner than in two years time. Driver mods first! Oh and I'm thinking about getting this flywheel (14lbs): https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-products/z1-motorsports/z1-motorsports-hr-vhr-performance-flywheel-p-9154.html

A couple of quick questions: - was the shorter stub axle on the drive side or on the passenger side? Did it look like this one: http://www.zspeedper...38220-AR011.htm or this one? http://www.zspeedper...38220-AR010.htm - is your 7kg flywheel made of aluminum or steel?

Great, thanks for the part numbers mate! When do you plan to hit the dyno? What's your projection, around 320hp? If you started with 290hp then 30hp gain might be possible with LTH and the cams. I'm really curious! Are you raising the rev limiter now? Oh and are you getting it all tuned before hitting the dyno?

Well, I guess I will just have to test it on a track - I have two options for softer rear springs and can test both at no extra cost: 6k and 8k. I'll start with 6k with the ARB put back on (softest setting) and I'll see how the damper reacts. If I will be losing traction at the rear during transitions and no damper adjustment will help, I'll switch to 8k. If 8k is going to be ok (in theory it should as it's pretty close to 9k and it's actually the middle of the valving range), I'll switch to 16k at the front to balance it out. It should be fine, I like a stiffer ride and apart from Nordschleife, most of the tracks I will be driving on are pretty flat. Just out of curiosity, what's actually involved in revalving coilovers? Can this be done at any suspension tuning shop or does it have to be done by the manufacturer?

Butcher, which parts did you get to replace those gaskets? I'm not sure what I really need - 13531, 13533, 08320-61400 ...? By the way, what was your pressure at idle before the change and what is it now? You have to post some videos now with the new sound of the engine and exhaust. And let's see those dyno test results! Can't wait PS. The OS Giken guys have just confirmed to me that the LSD does not need to be re-tuned if used with a lightened flywheel in a <400hp car. Good news

They say here that it's ok to even go up by 2k without revalving and it won't have an impact on the ride quality. Does this change anything? So for 9k spring that range would have been something like 7k to 11k, no? What does it mean for me in practical terms when I hit the track with those 6k springs - that I will have no damper adjustment at the rear and it won't really make a difference whether it's 0 clicks or 16 clicks? EDIT. I've just checked with their technical support - they say the valving range is 6k to 10k.

Ok, got it now. It definitely makes more sense with upgraded cams and it's then more a matter of looking at the power/torque curve rather than just pure hp gains. I can see why you're doing it all at once now.

Butcher, did you get the stepped up PPE long tube headers with the merge collector for $1600? Do you guys know how much more power the PPE headers add compared to decats? Shorties would add 10hp (confirmed on my350z.com), long tubes would add 20hp but I don't know what the difference would be between long tubes and decats? If decats add around 10hp then together with short heads isn't this the same gain as with long tubes but for half the price?! PS. My oil gallery gaskets are blown for sure - less than 15psi at idle! I need to fix this before I hit the track for the first time this season. Yours look like the upgraded ones.

I only paid 4x330$ My friend brought them over for free in a container with the car he bought over there. Super light, the 9,5 inch one weighs less than 9kg!

Why not? Most aftermarket ones eat up power or at best do not improve anything. Miltek only adds 2hp but a good 2x2" design can add around 10hp. Proven at the dyno!

Thanks for your reply. Not sure if I understand you correctly - do you mean that with 3k softer springs I will only be able to make use of a limited damper adjustment range (it's 16 clicks right now)? Which end though - they most stiffest settings?

10k in a stock position (spring bucket) will be fine. If it was a true coilover then you would have a big issue when driving on a limit. Driving at 80-90% with such a setup could be fine but who would want to do that? I highly recommend Enkei RFP-1. Night and day difference compared to Rays.

I have to revise my plan now after a bit more reading. I was going to install resonated test pipes and build a custom cat back but I'm not sure about it now. The long tube headers are obviously the best option for max power but 1300$ for PPE ! Ouch On the other head, they will produce more gains than upgraded cams for 1000$. Decisions, decisions...