GrahameJ

Anything wrong with adding another coat of HD wax after a month then?

Should I really be claying and polishing first?

HD wax might last 6 months, but I've been using it on my Zed which is in daily use including motorways, and it needs a quick wash once a week just to get rid of the road grime,

so I can see out of the side windows.

Water will still bead off after a month, but at this point I feel it needs another coat of wax.

Last weekend was the first time I managed to do this while it was warm and sunny, and for some reason the shine came through better?

Despite buying a polisher I haven't really used it, apart from small areas where mysterious scratches appear after parking at work etc.,

and I'm about as far from a detailer as you can get.

I have to admit my old Merc just got put through the car wash once a week!

Repeated post

Maybe just supply the adapter plate and connector loom for cheapskates then, so they can use second hand throttle bodies to try this out?

NWP's own dyno graph in the link shows it makes less max power and less max torque than standard,

but does improve over stock from 5700 to 6200 revs.

Any ideas why it loses power compared to stock at around 5300rpm?

The discount code above still works

The Nismo name must be worth an extra 2bhp at least, but the GT version has a bit more style.

Whichever, I've got the paint to colour code it when fitted.

I fitted mine last weekend, along with a modified lower plenum and a DIY throttle body heater.

I also used 1.5m thick Aramid insulating gaskets between the lower plenum and inlet manifold, and the upper plenum and the throttle body heater.

Mods to the plenum involved shaving 2mm from the tops of the front two runners/trumpets, removal of all casting seams, blending and porting of the runners,

together with some more work on the outer of the rear two runners to allow easier flow on entry to the plenum.

The plenum was finally ceramic coated with Techline's Powercote thermal barrier which I obtained from Camcoat in Warrington.

All this work was done to aid flow and to try and keep the mixture as cool as possible.

When fitting I disconnected the battery, as there was a good chance I would disturb the throttle body, and I did have to drill out one of the allen bolts.

These are very, very tight!

Once assembled I then ran through the following reset procedures:

• Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure
  
• Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
  

On Monday I wasn't impressed with any differences in performance, so that night while the engine was fully warm I then performed:

• Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
  

Tuesday - I was impressed, finding myself on pole position at the traffic lights I floored it.

A big improvement with the car howling away from the lights like never before, followed by a metallic thud.

That was the sound of my Zippo lighter hitting the rear plastics, as it flew backwards out of the cubby.

It had never done that before either!

I guess the car is now ready for an Uprev on the ecu, before it realises there is now an idiot diving instead of the kind Japanese former owner,

and ramps back the timing and fuel mapping.

Lower plenum and H-Dev spacer:

Upper plenum and throttle body heater:

Fitted:

My original thought was the Nismo lip, but now I'm spoilt for choice!

I definitely wanted a PU lip, as a GRP version would not last long with my parking skills and high kerbs at supermarkets.

Styling aside, do the bottom of the lips fit flush with the bottom of the bumper?

I'm still thinking along the lines of lip + splitter.

I got more than 10 bhp on my first mod when I fitted one of your stubbys!

Hi,

Do Front lips actually add any down force at the front of the car,

or does a splitter need to be added under this to achieve any down force?

I was thinking of the Nismo version, as that would match my rear spoiler,

and it also looks like the easiest shape to add a splitter later if need be.

Any comments appreciated as nearly all the threads I have read were more to do with styling.

Having said that the GT version looks like it may be better for getting over straddle type speed bumps.

MeisterR Zeta-S Coilovers can also be set to stock ride height - mine are.

Vast improvement over OEM shocks, firm and still supple over bumps.

It's easy to adjust the damping settings, especially if you get the extenders for the rear.

My local garage fitted mine in 2 hours, but the garage owner pointed out the mechanic had fitted the offside rear pipe under the anti-roll bar as it was the only way he could get it to fit.

A search on here showed that this was a common fitting error.

As the garage was now shut for the weekend and the car is my daily drive, I had no option but to rectify this myself.

Led on my back with the car on small axle stands, I removed all the bolts, checking whether the USA labelled driver/passenger front pipes could be fitted incorrectly, but these would only fit one way. I flipped the right rear pipe, loosely assembling the whole system, checked for clearance over the roll bar,

and then tightened up everything.

Time spent - 1 and 3/4 hours.

The garage mechanic would have had to deal with rusty nut and bolts, removing the old system, so 2 hours should be about right unless the studs on the CATs break and need to be drilled out.

Here is the right rear pipe over the ant-roll bar.

As others have said it is hard to define drone.

I bought an Invidia Gemini system from Torqen in the recent Group buy.

Running this with OEM cats it has a nice deep resonant tone with no rasp.

It is considerably louder than the OEM JDM exhaust it replaced, and is audible over any tyre noise motorway cruising at 3000 revs.

I run Continental Sport contact 5 tyres rated at 73 decibels (MPSS are rated at 71db).

It's all relative, and unlike a full fast road tuned Ford engine kit car I once built, the Invidia doesn't make little old ladies dive into shop doorways at their bus stop when I drive past

In my racing days pops and bangs on the over run mean that there was either an air leak in the exhaust or the carburation was way out.

Can throttle response off-idle be mapped in various ways too?

I'll be looking for smooth linear progressive power to push me out of the corners on the car's limits, rather than an on/off switch with max power coming in with a bang and upsetting the handling.

Hi Adrian,

when are you expecting delivery of the exhausts on back order?

They All Do That Sir!

Either that or - Texas Alcohol and Drug Testing Service

I got the CC module from the US - they assured me they would work on a JDM - pedal sensors from ZMANALEX - I spoke to Mark@ Abbey and he said the ECU needs reflashing so it will recognise the cruise control - Maybe its a bit of gamble but the guys in the US seem convinced it will work - it won't work on a UK CC

The US switches are a straight upgrade to retrofit to a US model, so lets hope they work with JDM models!

Courtesy car parts in Texas have these switches for a 2004 model - $62.41:

Manufacturer: Nissan

Part Number: 25550-CD000

Part: SET/RESUME SWITCH

Part Notes: 350Z

Related Parts:

Manufacturer: Nissan

Part Number: 25300-AT300

Part: BRAKE SWITCH

Replaces: 25300-4M400

Part Notes: 350Z

Price $25.35

Manufacturer: Nissan

Part Number: 25300-62J0E

Part: CLUTCH SWITCH

Replaces: 25300-62J00, 25300-V5000

Part Notes: 350Z

Discontinued!!!!

http://www.courtesyparts.com/auto-parts/2004/nissan/350z/touring-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/fuel-system-cat/cruise-control-scat/?part_number=2530062j0e

MIght get this done - still have the bits to retro fit the cruise control onto my JDM - been on the to do list for ages

Hi Mudman,

I'm looking to do the same and have posted a wanted add for the cruise switches.

Do you have the part numbers for the JDM switches, and where did you get them from?

Thanks....

Hi Rich,

I'm porting a lower plenum in preparation for your spacer, can you supply the other gaskets I'll need?

Hi,

I'm looking for a set of the steering wheel cruise switches and wiring loom from a JDM 350Z 2004 model.

I've been informed they need to be JDM to match the CAN bus wiring.

If anybody knows the part numbers that will be helpful.

Has anybody used Johnsons Ray Guard 5% Window Tint film?

Last year I bought a graded sun strip film to deal with the low winter sun, and it helped, but by the time I had trimmed it to fit the windscreen, the lower edge was way above the rear view mirror.

So, I am looking to replace this with some high quality film, which I can cut to size.

The other brand offered by the supplier is SunTek Carbon Window Tint.

Any preferences or alternatives for a DIY job?

As this is in the performance section, does the Invidia Gemini outperform a Milltek exhaust?

If Motordyne's figures for testing the differences between a 1/2inch and 5/16inch spacer are accurate than it should be a possible gain of 1.664 HP difference for a normally aspirated engine - zilch as you said!

The big gains are from fitting the 5/16inch spacer in the first place - as per this group buy!!!

Here is the theory explained on their site - Plenum Spacers & The VQ35 DE : https://motordyneusa.com/vq35-de/