GrahameJ
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Posts posted by GrahameJ
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Hi Alex,
have you got the plastics for the front centre console for an 04 model?
I don't need the cubby, as I've covered mine in leather.
Surface marks shouldn't be a problem as I'd like to cover the rest in leather too.
Cheers,
Grahame.
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On 21/09/2015 at 13:58, GrahameJ said:
I can't vouch for Gtechniq, as I havn't used it, but Aquapel does also have an advantage for old high milage windscreens in low sun conditions, reducing the glare from small stone chips. It's American made, but you can buy it on eBay.
For anyone interested I've just bought some Duxback , which is recommended by Ford and BMW.
The applicator looks the same as the Aquapel version, and is.
The telephone numbers printed on the applicator for Emergency Response numbers are the same:
- America/US 1-760-476-3962
- Europe: 1-760-476-3961
But you all know by now that the best is G-Techniq G1 don't you
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Hi Fletch,
a quick look on the EBC site gives OEM replacement part numbers for Brembo and Nissan calipers.
These should help cross reference with other makes of pad.
Brembo: https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/350z/3.5-(Brembo)-2003-2009/9224 Part No DP1644
Nissan: https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/350z/3.5-2003-2009/9223 Part No DP1666
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I bought one of these from Amazon, which is simple to use to read and clear codes using JOBD on JDM FairladyZ 350Z's:
Autool OM500 JOBD/OBDII/EOBD Code Reader Auto Diagnostic Tool Engine Fault Scanner for Japanese Vehicles
Price: £33.50 FREE UK delivery. 
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Spotted 2 Z's this morning
1) Black Track car on trailer being towed M6 southbound by a Nissan Navara(?) pickup truck on the M6 around junction 29.
2) Blue '09 plate 350Z southbound on the M6 and onto A556 south. -
Here is the mod I made to left/near/passenger side radiator trim, which partially blocks direct air flow into the EVO-R intake through the grille.
The aim being to channel air into the intake rather than have turbulent air spooling around the edge of the trim.
My attempt is more functional, than aesthetic just using a knife to cut the trim, and a soldering iron to plastic weld the bits cut out back in their new place.
From the front of the car it's sitting behind the grille, and hardly noticeable.
As I said above I replaced the EVO-R intake with a home made version. This has an entry the full size of the of the trim below, to try and ram more air into the intake.
Front view:
View from bottom:
Back view:
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I found there was no need to take the whole bumper off.
The intake can be fitted by removing the under-tray and by wiggling and twisting the intake it can be pushed up from underneath.
From memory I think I removed the top clips on the bumper near the radiator to give a little extra room.
On mine I also removed the passenger nearside plastic radiator shroud which is attached by clips to the grille area,
and modified the shroud to direct air-flow into the intake, before re-fitting.
PM me with an offer if you like, I'm not great at selling things.
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I have got one that I bought from The Z store in the States.
Not cheap though.... I paid around £180 for it.
It was $89.95 + Shipping USPS: $102.57 and then import tax @ 10% and VAT @20% on top.
I have subsequently made my own with a larger intake so may part with it.
See:
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On 19/03/2018 at 19:30, Willsy1980 said:
No worries, willy was close but willsy is better
btw, I missed the rev limit indicator setting too..
Full list is:
clock
speed
outside temp
DTE
average fuel consumption and speed
elapsed time
Stopwatch
trip odometer
Shift indicator light
It may be an ecu thing . Here is an archive on the same topic:
Apologies - Willsy!
It could be ecu related, although the average mpg on the UK gauges does match my actual mpg calculated manually, as I always fill to the brim and check the mileage from the trip on the speedo.
Digging around in the US service manuals shows the triple gauges are controlled by the heater air-con module, so looks like I need a UK version of that too to get the clock working!
Anybody know the part number?
US Manual for 2004:
UNIFIED METER AND A/C AMP PFP:27760
System Description AKS00955
For the unified meter and A/C amp., the signal required for controlling
the combination meter and triple meter are integrated in
the A/C auto amp.
UNIFIED METER AND A/C AMP DI-59
DI
Revision: 2004 November 2004 350Z
Between Unified Meter and A/C Amp. and Triple Meter
Unit: Unified meter and A/C amp
Input .
LCD indication condition signal
Shift-up indicator setting signal
Oil pressure warning lamp signal
Triple meter receive error signal
Outside air temperature signal
Output
Outside air temperature warning signal
Trip distance signal
Trip time signal
Average vehicle speed signal
Average fuel consumption signal
Vehicle speed signal
DTE (Distance to empty) signal
DTE (Distance to empty) warning signal
Trip computer mode switch signal
Trip computer setting switch signal
Self-diagnosis condition signal
Odo/trip switch signal
Triple meter specifications signal
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6 hours ago, 350Butcher said:
Litchfield do only do Ecutek (so 370z's only)
Bit of a drive (but a nicer one, make sure you take the B4494 from Chieveley to Wantage on your way home its epic!!) but go and see Jez at Horsham he'll get the best from it for you.
Looking at the pic of your car it looks like its running a load of positive camber on the rear (Unless the camera is distorting it) so get yourself a full alignment done while you're there!
Also where did you get the Tein rods and ends? Thought they'd been discontinued a while ago!
I got a set of tie rods and ends from Driftworks.
Their website only shows the tie rod ends at the moment, but no doubt they will be able to get some for you: https://www.driftworks.com/tein-strengthened-tie-rod-ends-nissan-350z-z33-02.html
They give a big improvement in steering lock, and although I don't get my car sideways much, they sure make parking in tight spaces a lot easier!
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6 hours ago, Willsy1980 said:
On the uk ones there is usually:
mpg, dte, clock, temp, lap time and speed. Think that's them all iirc
Only ever use the clock and DTE
Hi Willy,
thanks for confirming there is a clock function
Now I just need to know how to get hat working.
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Just fitted some UK gauges to my JDM model, so as I could now see mpg rather than litres per whatever, I then tried to reset the mpg.
1) Cycle through using the top left button until mpg shows.
2) Press and hold the lower button until the gauge reading starts flashing and then resets to nulls (dashes).
3) Drive for a mile or so and then the new mpg figures will display.
Hope this helps
There is still one function that does not work, which looks like it may be a clock, currently just flashing showing nulls(dashes) when I cycle to it.
Can anybody confirm if there is a clock on UK models, and will a UK heater control module be needed to get this working?
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On 10/01/2018 at 19:00, Ortega_9 said:
And all stitched up again.
Now i need to patch a few holes in the downpipes and in a intercooler pipe, and then i think i'm ready to start taking the car apart.
Nice to see someone purging for a change
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I was getting a lot of condensation in mine too, and have cured this with 2 x 1 kg Silica Gel bags off eBay for £11.
Overnight I pop one on the dashboard and one on the rear cross member, and all the glass is clear even if it has been pouring down with rain overnight.
Prior to that I was busy with micro-cloths wiping down the glass with the air-con on before I could get going.
The bags are re-usable, just pop them on a radiator to dry them out.
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Just get the flap resprayed by a good local painter.
My didn't match either, although my car colour is Blade Silver.
These days your local paint supplies shop should have a paint camera, so they can take a picture of the paint colour on the wing and mix the paint to match.
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Demon Tweeks sell bends and perforated exhaust tubing that may help make the job easier: https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/universal-exhaust-parts
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Currently running Continental ContiWinterContact TS810 Sport tyres for the winter on stock wheels as we do get snow and ice up here in the North and the car is my daily driver.
I also run Continental Sport Contact 5 tyres on Ray's wheels for the summer.
Handling, steering and grip is generally good wet or dry and they shift a lot of water on the motorways.
I can't compare them with Michelins as I haven't tried them, but Continentals are a premium rated tyre and stopped the traction control light flashing on the dash which happened with the Yokohamas originally fitted to the car.
As your tyres are part worn I'd check the age of the tyres before purchase from the codes on the side walls of the tyres.
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I quietened mine down using Duralay 3mm laminate flooring underlay from B&Q.
It's claimed to reduce sound transmission by 22db.
In my JDM I took out all the boot plastics, and covered everything from the seats backwards, including the inner wings.
I then used the original boot carpet as a template and glued two layers of the Duralay to that too, and still have some left.
The roll covers 7.5 m², so will easily cover your boot and transmission tunnel.
Cut to shape with some heavy duty scissors and glue it down with spray on carpet adhesive.
Note - JDM models come with minimal sound deadening, and if you lift the carpet up it is painted metal underneath,
so my efforts were mainly to overcome road noise from the rear tyres.
The original JDM exhaust is quiet, and one reason I later bought the India Gemini dual exhaust system so I could hear it!
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There is a good chance that the switches were wet on previous occasions too, as it tends to rain rather a lot in Blackburn,
and I do prefer to drive with the driver's window open slightly, which always results in some water finding itself on the inside of the door.
Having said that the fault is very intermittent.
I don't know if there is a live feed at the switches with the ignition off, but I'm sure there will be someone more knowledgeable on here that does.
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My passenger window has a very intermittent fault in that it has happened 3 times in a year of ownership.
The issue being that after locking the car yesterday evening, the passenger window was fully open this morning.
Other than that the window works normally, drops slightly when opening the door and raises again upon closing the door,
and opens and closes smoothly over the fully range using the switch on the drivers door.
I'm wondering if this could be due to water in the switches, as I had used the wiper washers to clean the windscreen whilst driving with the drivers window open,
and some of the water ran down onto the switches.
So, is the problem likely to be the switch or will it be a problem with the window motor, or even the body control module?
I have searched many of the threads on windows, but most relate to sticking windows or windows not moving at all, and all seem to be related to window motor problems.
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Here you are Olly, a side on view.
Lots of work with cardboard, sticky tape,fibreglass and several fittings to try and get the shape right to fit.
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Here is my home-made version similar to an EVO-R performance cold intake duct.
It connects to the standard air-box containing a high flow AEM filter.
The intake entry sits flush behind the OEM grille occupying all the space normally taken up by the left hand plastic radiator shroud which I have removed.
The top seals against foam sheet on the normal OEM bulkhead air entry.
Inspiration came from the air intakes on high performance motorcycles, taking in air from a high pressure area at the front.
Fitted:
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Once you get under the car, you will find lots of holes where you can insert an extension tube from the spray gun.
I used Waxoyl as my local accessory shop had it in stock, when I got my car, and just sprayed into every place I could see.
Not sure about Dinitrol but Waxoyl needs to be pretty warm to spray it.
I learnt that the hard way where I was warming up Waxoyl in the kitchen and then going back out to spray into the cavities on the car.
The Waxoyl in the extension tube had solidified slightly by the time I got back, and I expected the pressure to blast this out.
Wrong - a few more squeezes on the trigger and the can blew off the spray gun sending a fountain of hot Waxoyl up in the air.
I was glad it only hit my ear n the way up, but I watched it come back down to completely cover the roof and windscreen.... doh!
So, take care or pay somebody else to do it.
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First attempt ever with a machine polisher.
Poor Boys Black hole followed by Autoglym HD-wax.
Then it rained the day after, but I know some of you like beading.
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4 X 350Z and 1 x G35 SKYLINE BREAKING FOR SPARES
in For Sale
Posted
How about the lower part where the heater dials go?