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Update Thanks all. It was difficult to find someone to take them because they haven't got any codes or markings on them, even when I pulled up in the car and said look, they came from that! You can check! In the end I got the big Liverpool metal merchants A&M metals (at the docks) to take them. I had 3 to get rid of, and they gave me £90.

Was on my way to Liverpool's Lark Lane last night about 8:30. Heard someone beeping and thought it must be someone annoyed at me cos I'm going 20 in the newly made 20 zone around Sefton park. Then I look in the mirror and see another silver Z almost exactly the same as mine! The young guy driving followed us for a bit before pulling up and remarking 'nice rims', and then zoomed off before I got the chance to ask if he was on the forums. First 350z I've seen in Liverpool since I bought mine. It was gunmetal silver with I think the Rays 18" alloy option. Mine is blade silver with aftermarket 19" dotz GtR wheels.

Cheers, and nice find GMballistic. Those are about the same price I paid, but you'll get them sooner, and those look polished instead of the Brushed/Matt ones I got.

Couple of things done this weekend. The first 2 pictures show some new U shaped switch guards I installed to stop me accidentally turning on the heated seats with my elbow. Was really difficult to find these, and I ended up ordering them off ebay from a U.S seller for $5 - seller: southbridge_massachusetts The red guarded flip switch beside that gives power to my reversing camera and switches the screen to the right feed. Second set of pictures shows some new laser Cut stainlesss steel Z centre caps I put together for the huge 19" Dotz alloys. I bought the alloy Z parts from a seller on ebay called 1972dragon. He seems to make a lot of stuff like this, and although hes not selling them at the moment, he can probably be persuaded to make some more if anyone else is interested. The discs were about 55m and flat with the Z cut out, and about 3-4mm thick, so i had to dremel out the inside lip of my original dotz centre caps about an extra 1-2mm, and glue these in. I decided it was the only way to make some decent centre caps for the dotz GTR forged wheels, as the centre cap size is huge, around 65mm, so choice was very limited.

Mine is so rusted through that bits are coming off it and it looks buckled - structural integrity gone. I don't think wire brush will help me! Had already spotted the ultra racing one Posted by GMballistic, but wanted to hear some opinions on it before I shell out. Anyone know if it's good value? Long lasting quality? Any better alternative ones? Or is it actually much of an improvement? (I'm otherwise running a totally OEM suspension setup)

Just had the cats changed on my car for a couple of OEM ones I bought off eBay that don't have holes, cracked brackets, road damage and rusted off heat shields. Sorted out my blowing exhaust issues in time for the MOT. Now I'm left with these two less-than-useful ones, I'm wondering if anyone knows if it's still possible to get any money for them for the scrap value of the rare metals that are inside them? I did a search on google but none of the companies I found who said they take old scrap cats got back to me with a quote. I can salvage the lambda sensors off them and looks like I can get around £60 selling those on eBay, but I hate to see precious rhodium, platinum and palladium go to waste in a skip.

Ok, replaced the pins today. The 1.2mm pins are good for thickness, but you can use 1mm too if that's all you have, they aren't the load bearing part of the setup anyway, so they're not going to break. The next size up I had was 1.6mm thickness and they definitely don't fit.

Sorry Ekona, I clicked post by accident on iPhone and I was in the process of editing my post to include the law but you were really quick! Anyway I've been studying law recently for my job, so I got it from UK legislation. It's on the government legislation website. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/1989/1796/schedule/12/made

The law I mentioned is different however, it relates to the effectiveness of centrally mounted brake stop lamps, and not the tinting of windows.

Was thinking about tinting the rear windows but has anyone ever been stopped or fined under the law I found below? It seems that whilst any amount of tint on a rear window is legal, since the 350z has a high level brake light, the tint affects its brightness which could make it illegal. An obvious way round would be to remove the high level brake light completely. Road Vehicles Lighting Regs 1989 requires upkeep of brake stop lamps: SCHEDULE 12 PART I Requirements relating to obligatory stop lamps and to optional stop lamps to the extent specified in part ii 1. Number– Two (one if pre 1971) it then goes on to say additionals may be fitted PART II Requirements relating to optional stop lamps © in the case of a stop lamp fitted to a motor vehicle not being a motor bicycle, first used on or after 1st April 1991 either centrally or in such a manner as to project light through the rear window the intensity of the light emitted to the rear of the vehicle shall be not less than 20 candelas and not more than 60 candelas when measured from directly behind the centre of the lamp in a direction parallel to the longitudinal axis of the vehicle.

I feel your pain buddy. It's rare to hear of such thefts these days, but then Birmingham must have some of the highest insurance premium postcodes in the country for a reason. I'm in Liverpool which is probably the second worst city for that and I had a fraudulent insurance claim made against me within the first 4 days of buying the car. Still fighting it 3 months later. It's like you just can't own a nice car without attracting the wrong type of attention. Stories like yours make me still think about fitting a tracker, as cheap as they are, but I do keep my keys locked in a safe when I'm not using the car and have a couple of sneaky kill switches which make it tricky to startup. More likely than theft though I'm dreading the day I'll go out to it one morning and find it on bricks.

Great guide, but I have a quick suggestion to try first before going to the trouble of removing the senders. When I bought the car in February this year (2004 350Z) I filled it up and the gauge would only read 3/4 of a tank, and it was like that consistently. Now as a habit, I always when buying a new car, put in a few treatments of RedX petrol additive (it's supposed to clean the injectors and such, but a lot of people believe it's pointless stuff). Anyway I eventually did it (when I saw redX on offer in Costco, 4 big bottles for like £12) and after the third treatment and full tank of fuel, the gauge now reads properly that I have a full tank. And there you have it. If it can clean the fuel injectors, then it can clean the fuel tank senders too. Give it a go

Excellent guide. I'll save it for later in case it's needed. As a way of saving time on it however, I have two suggestions. Am I correct in assuming that it seems more likely that the driver side fuel sender (behind the subwoofer where the fuel pump is) is the one likely to be getting dirty? And secondly, I accidentally fixed my dodgy gauge with the following method: When I bought the car in February this year (2004 350Z) I filled it up and the gauge would only read 3/4 of a tank, and it was like that consistently. Now as a habit, I always when buying a new car, put in a few treatments of RedX petrol additive (it's supposed to clean the injectors and such, but a lot of people believe it's pointless stuff). Anyway I eventually did it (when I saw redX on offer in Costco, 4 big bottles for like £12) and after the third treatment and full tank of fuel, the gauge now reads properly that I have a full tank. And there you have it. If it can clean the fuel injectors, then it can clean the fuel tank senders too. Give it a go

Same thing has just happened to me. Went out today to touch up the caliper paint and noticed one of the brake pad retaining pins sticking out about 5mm more than the other, on one of the rear brakes. The R pin that secures the bigger pin was indeed missing. It's a little scary that something so small is so important. It's been about 1000 miles since I last did a full check over on the brakes and the loss of this little tiny pin could mean everything comes apart very quickly. I've had a look for some replacements and found these which are a little thicker than the usual ones you find, and they're also bent over at the end like the original ones. Hopefully they will be a good fit. I'll let you all know. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=400814973608

Little bit worried about doing this mod now, wonder if you guys can put me at ease (since obviously so many have successfully achieved it). Took my key to the local Timpsons and they told me it's now company policy not to cut these keys anymore (any uncoded car keys) as someone had it done there but was told not to try and start the car. Anyway he did try it and the immobiliser kicked in and bricked the engine until he had paid the stealers £300 to sort it out. So my question is, if the key is not right or I mess up with not having the electronics or this transponder thingy in the right place, is it gonna lock up on me? Or is this just the Timpsons guy selling me some BS, and if I haven't done it properly all the will happen is that it won't start till I get it right? Also, I ordered mine from the same seller link from the beginning of this thread (remotefobcentre) - buy it now £14.99 or best offer. He accepted £9.99 which was my first offer. I saw the £7.99 one but I wasn't able to confirm the blade is the right length of 4.5cm on that auction, and it was from outside UK so would have taken a month or more to arrive and maybe not be the same quality.