veeg33

I would recommend fairly liquid + water. Spray on both surfaces, headlights and also the film (sticky side). Lots of water to stop it from sticking when you position/work on the film. Start from middle and work you way out with a squeeze or credit card. Once you 'squeeze' the water out, the film will stick to your headlights. Depending on the film quality, you want to consider to either cut the film to size ie no folding at the edges or 3-5mm extra to fold it. Both have their pros and cons. To size - No risk of edge unfolding due to film not sticking to headlights well but you might peel it whilst washing your headlights (I supposed you can take care whilst washing them). Folded - Looks better but as above, the edges might start to unfold after some time

Thanks mate!

I guess that's the price to pay if you don't know a good honest mechanic.

Not mod related but swapped both cam covers today as a found cylinder no6 leaking when I was trying to diagnose misfiring issue with my zed. Research shows that oil in no6 cylinder is always due to oil seal on the cam cover have given up. Unfortunately, the oil seal is moulded into the cam covers hence it needs drilling out to replace. A new seal kit cost about £230 (all 6 seals). I can't be asked to drill them out when I can buy full set of cam covers + seals + shiny new bolts from Zmanalex for only £250 delivered next day. This is my first major DIY on the zed. Did some research on YouTube and found 2 good detailed video on how to swap them covers off. I must say these 2 videos gave me a lot of info on what to do and to look for. Started at 9am this morning, removing bolts, nuts, connectors and hose clips. I bagged them in freezer bags and labeled them. I even added detailing tapes on the upper plenum to number the bolt sequence and labeled each bolt that comes out of it to make life a whole lot easier when I assemble them back on. Got all the torque spec and sequence from Nicoclub.com. Printed out the pages I need for torque spec and sequence for plenum and cam covers. Specific instructions to add RTV silicon on the front corner (mentioned in YouTube video and also in the service manual). I'm happy that the cams are very clear, no sign of dirty oil or gunks. I should had taken more pics when the covers are off but can't be asked as I'm more interested in getting it done and get out of the sun. 4hrs in total, stopped for lunch after both new covers are on. Key on and happy to see no leakage anywhere but disappointed that the engine is still misfiring 🤦🏻‍♂️. Drove it around to burn any oil that's managed to drop into the combustion chamber from the leak but doesn't seems too make any difference. As Zmanalex always says - back to basic. Hence unplugging one coil pack at a time to find the offending cylinder. Started with no5 and no charge in engine tone. But when is was plugged back in, the misfiring stopped. Connector! Got my contact cleaner out, gave it a good clean. Reassembled it, stopped the misfiring and thought it is just a bad connection. Drove it out for a test run, it the first pot hole (not a big one, just some sh**t road in my estate that they had not resurface after they finished off all the new builds, bloody 5 year now!) And it started to misfire again. Stopped by road side to give it a wiggle and the misfiring stopped. Biggest fear at that time - please not a faulty male connector on the harness side, it will be a pain to repair. lucky I bought a new coil pack just incase no6 was damaged when oil is pooling in it. Swapped no5 out and thank God it was a faulty coil pack female connector. Took it out for a test drive. Driven about 15 mins. So far so good 🤞. Left the zed to idle for 10mins when I return home whilst I tidy up all my tools. Running normal and hopefully that's now done. 😎

Replaced them covers today, probably picked the wrong day for it. Way too hot to be working on the zed today, sun burnt as I was under the hood got a good 4hrs in total. All went well, started the zed and still misfiring 🤦🏻‍♂️. Drove it around to burn out all the oil left in cylinder no6 which previously had oil leak in it. Didn't stop the misfiring. Back to basics again by unplugging one coil pack at a time. Guess what, it cylinder no5 🤦🏻‍♂️ started playing up. It was the connector. When I wiggle it a little, the misfiring stopped. Took it off and give it a quick clean with contact cleaner. Did the job, but as soon as I took it out for a test run, the first bump on the road sets it off again. Parked on the road side and adjusted it again. I was pretty sure the connector/connection of no5 is the issue. I was hoping is the female connector on the coil is playing up rather than the male connector on the wiring harness. Lucky I bought a new coil pack just incase I need to replace no6. Swapped it out and the misfiring is sorted. Drove around for 15mins and it is all good 🤞. Looks like them coil packs are on their way hence probably best to replace the other 4. I had previously swapped no1. A good day I must say. Enjoyed working on the zed and found out that I can speak many languages too 😎

😎 Happy days! Thanks @ZMANALEX

Absolutely fantastic!!

When I had mine done, I don't recall my mechanic fitted new bolts. You might want to consider braided clutch hose too. As for gearbox, OEM Nissan oil + Molyslip

Awaiting delivery and nice weather, I'll be swapping them out. Was tempted to buy Ebay's special but i guess they are cheap for a reason.

Following up on this: My ears are rubbish 😂😂, no air leak. Whilst it was misfiring last week, I disconnected cylinder 1, 3, 5 and 2, one at a time as it was the easiest to do without removing anything. None of them made a change in engine tone. I swapped no1 few months back, thought the new part is faulty but it wasn't. Since the weather is good this morning, decided to strip the air intake and check cylinder 4 and 6. Took a guess and started with no6. Hit the jackpot 🤦🏻‍♂️. When I took the coil pack out, it was full of engine oil. No issue on no2 and no4. New cam cover time as brilliant Nissan engineer decided to mould the seal into the cover 🤨. Can't be asked messing swapping out the oil seal (drilling and pushing them in and waiting for it to dry for at least 24hrs) and Zmanalex sells a new full covers + gasket + bolts for few less than £30 extra compared to repair kits (6x oil seals + gasket only). Ordering tomorrow and hopefully next weekend, with good weather I'll swap them out.

Had a faulty ignition coil back in Sept/Oct last year, swapped new ignition coil at cylinder 1. Had some events of misfire again this morning, intermittently and seems to go away after i restart the engine. Though another coil is on its way. Having said that, I also noticed that the misfiring happens when I'm accelerating (towards the end RPM before gear change, if you get what i mean). After gear change the misfiring stopped and starts again just before next gear change but only if i'm accelerating hard. Checked all coil listening for clicks with screw drivers - All of them clicking, removed the connectors and all made a change in engine tone. Hence I've ruled out coil/spark plug issue for now. Done all this while the zed is misfiring, weirdly it starts to misfire when i reverse into my drive. Whilst doing this, I noticed a hissing sound coming from under the plastic engine cover. Close to driver side's first ignition coil ie cylinder 1. Will be taking the cover off over the weekend and try to find out if there is any leak but I can't remember what's behind the cover. Did i manage to damage something when i swap cylinder 1 ignition coil. I only move one rubber hose out of the way and I've run my fingers around this hose and can't feel any leak or suction. Anyone had similar problem that could share your experience so that I can narrow it down will be a great help. Many thanks in advance.

New coil pack in, everything seems ok after the swap. Will just have to drive it around as per my usual routine and see if any more misfiring.

Small update after I have some time to diagnose. Checked the coil packs whilst the car is misfiring, used the screwdriver method to listen for spark ticking sound. Not easy to start but managed to hear one that's not ticking. 1st coil pack, driver side closest to front bumper. Removed the spark plug at the same time just to check. Swapped the driver side coil pack with passenger side, confirmed the offending coil pack. Order one for collection on Tuesday to swap it out. Hopefully that's the solution.

I checked the coil packs by disconnecting one at a time, but thinking about it now, it might not be misfiring when i checked them hence I could not identify which cylinder is playing up as each one I disconnect made a change in engine noise. Car passed MOT today, with lots of luck for Zed's god, the misfire went away when it was on for emission test. Mechanic checked everything he could at that time and found nothing. Guess what, I started to misfire when I drove off..........lucky it's lockdown now meaning I can do without my zed for now. I will do the coil pack/ plugs check again this weekend and hopefully I can find the offending bugger! Not going to buy any new injectors until I'm sure that's the issue. Will checked everything step by step, coils, plugs and injectors. Hopefully I don't have to go to injectors as it will more screws to remove to get to it. Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

MOT tomorrow, so I'll leave it to the mechanic to diagnose the issue. My money is on injectors at the moment.

Not so great after all. Back to square one. Took it out for a drive and 5 mins into the drive, misfiring again. Makes me think it could be wiring issue? but that doesn't explain why swapping the MAF sensor seems to fixed that issue. Or having a think about it, is my electric system sending high voltage/amp to the MAF when i drive hence it has short my MAF sensor? If that's the case what's next? But this doesn't explain why the misfiring suddenly goes away whilst waiting at the traffic lights. Going to chuck in a bottle of Redex since i have one in the garage.

After some advise from Alex aka ZmanAlex, I've managed to get hold of a spare MAF from an ex-colleague that lives 15mins away from me. His zed is in pieces now (engine rebuild) and far from being complete hence he has kindly borrowed his MAF sensor. Start up with current MAF sensor, misfiring. Switch off, swap to another MAF sensor, no more misfiring. Switch off, replace with old MAF sensor, misfiring. Swap again to another MAF sensor, no misfiring. I think this is now pretty conclusive that my MAF sensor is playing up.

Was ok until Friday when I was doing nursery run =(. Started up normal, drives normal, started to misfire when I stopped at a traffic light about 3milea away from home. ECU reset at daughter's nursery, no luck. Drove slowly back to house, 2 miles in the zed is alive again. Cleaned the MAF again yesterday and also cleaned and oiled my popcharger at the same time. Assembled everything back on, started up normal, 2mins in the misfiring starts again. Maybe wiring or loose connection somewhere? I wanted to get a new MAF to try but no stock within my area (GSF or ECP). Hoping someone or @ZMANALEX can give some advice what else to check as I have MOT booked next week Tuesday. Surely the misfiring will fail MOT due to emission?

I'm glad to see your updates!! Keep them coming when you have spare time away from your day to day job!!

yep, hopefully

Nice weather today hence decided to check what's causing the issue. Remove MAF sensor, cleaned with contact cleaner, reassemble - OK at start up but start to misfire again after 5 mins. **edit - Someone on google search said best to leave it to dry for 20-30mins (which i didn't follow as i thought contact cleaner fluid from the spray usually dry up quick) Remove engine cover and strut bar - Start up and disconnect one coil connector at a time. All of them made a change of engine tone. Did a ECU reset and start up again...… No more engine light and car is idling normal again. Went for a quick 2 miles drive, all normal and no engine light. Reason for cleaning MAF - Saw on YouTube, a video of cleaning MAF and one of the reason he said - If you have aftermarket filter that uses oil, oil can contaminate the MAF hence regular cleaning is good. Yes, I have JWT popcharger hence my conclusion is the dirty MAF sensor. Will report back if issue comes again then I'm back to the drawing board.

Small update - started the zed up to try to get a better video. Car started absolutely fine and normal. Managed to warm up until engine speed dropped to below 1k rpm, all good. Did a quick around the block, no problem. When I reach home, reverse to my drive. I noticed engine warning light, P0300. Turn engine off, then on again. The same idle issue came back. I guess I need to unplug each coil to identify which one to replace or could it be the MAF?

Driven about 7k to 8k with it. Vibration seems to change with engine speed, higher rpm higher vibration I wasn't dare to put my foot on the throttle, incase I might damage something. Mine doesn't normally smell so rich or petrol. Standard cat with Invidia Gemini exhaust.

sounded like a V8