Fluke

I am going to be swapping out my Miltek on my 350z for something a bit fruitier sounding. Which would be the best sounding with Berks HFC's, an Ark Grip or an Nvidia Gemini? I most definitely won't wan any drone, as my daily commute is 30 miles on the M6.😩

Alex, do you have a sensor available?

The Berks seem to fit fine, and I cant detect anything blowing. I was wondering if a bad seal around the o2 sensor going into the HFC would cause an issue? I know that the thread on the HFC bung had to be chased when it was fitted.

Would a dodgy front sensor work with the factory fitted cats and not the Berks? Would a leak down stream of them throw up the code? I replaced the both rear O2 sensors when the Berks were fitted as they were falling apart when they were taken out during the factory fitted cat removal. The car runs fine and if I refit the factory cats and clear the code, it doesn't return. Would an air leak on the Berks HFC's cause a P1283 code?

Its the second time I have been back to them and it only seems to happen with the Berk's fitted. Has anyone else had the same problem?

As per title, my car (Its a 2003 DE UpRev) threw a P1283 after having the Berk HFC's fitted to my Milltek system. This was after having a remap at TDI North last week. If I swap my HFC's back to my factory standard cats and clear the code it doesn't return until I put the Berk HFC's back on, and will return after a few miles even after multiple resets. My understanding is that the code is a lean shift on bank 2 sensor 1 and this is pre-cat. Can anyone tell me how to solve the problem?

I need to replace the drive shaft on the rear drivers side. Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the drive shafts from an auto or manual gearbox car?

My car failed its MOT yesterday with a broken front drop link amongst other things. I will be doing the work on my drive way, how easy are they to replace and what is access like? I will be doing the work on my drive way.

I have been running Eagle F1 Asymmetric 2's for the past 12 months on a set of 19" 370z alloys fitted to my 350z. They have worn very well and have been great in the wet and dry.

Either the gear on the end of the starter motor which gets thrown into mesh with the fly wheel is damaged and sticking in mesh with the flywheel or the starter motor itself is duff. Have you tried putting the car in 2 nd gear and rocking it back and forwards to see if the starter motor gear wheel u meshes from the flywheel? No, I tried doing that in first gear, would that make any difference?

I put my old starter back on and the car fired up straight away, I turned it off and tried again and just got the single click again. I am not sure if it was a fluke or that it does point to the starter motor being duff?

I managed To remove my starter motor, both the actuator and starter motor work ok when I hooked it up to a spare battery. Is there a way to test the clutch switch? Is there likely to be a fuse that I have missed?

the battery is only a year old, and I tried jump starting with a set of leads. It started when I had a mate push it and I popped the clutch.

The car will bump start so I figure it's the switch or the starter motor?

I am trying to eliminate issues that might stop my car from starting. I have already made sure my battery is fully charged. Checked the fuses behind the battery and I still only get a single click. All my lights and other electrics work, so unless anyone can point out something else. The only thing I can think of is either the clutch pedal switch or the starter motor. Before I have a go at removing the starter motor and trying another one, is there a way I can rule out the clutch switch? Any tips for removing the starter motor on a driveway?

Thanks Alex, are there any fuses I should check? Can you PM me a price including next day delivery?

When I tried to start my car after work last night, all I was getting was a single click. Thinking it was the battery, I got a mate to try and give me a push and we managed to bump start the car and I put my battery on charge when I got home. The battery is only a year old, but was fully charged during the night and when I put it back on the car this morning, I am still getting a single click. I will check the relay and fuses, but think that it maybe the starter motor. Can somebody tell me if it's possible to replace the starter motor just by accessing it through the passenger wheel side? Is it an easy job that can be done on the driveway?

Which fuse was it? I am getting a single click but no start. I have my battery on charge, but suspect the starter, as the car would not jump start, but would bump star.

I have had the uprev with decats and I had no CEL, but now with my Berk HFC's fitted I get a CEL.

I have am in the process of replacing my rear bearing, the hub grease seal is all deformed. I have a new one, can somebody confirm which way it sits on the axel?

I need a new hub grease seal, the Nissan part number is 39252 35F6C and is pictured below on the far right. Can anyone help?

BTW - The seal I am after is this one.

I plan on replacing my rear wheel hub/bearing when get home this coming weekend and want to fit a new hub nut and drive shaft seal. Before I go to a main stealer, is there anywhere else I might be able to order one from online?

I have a set in good conditions with good tyres. I will try and get some pictures and PM them to you.

If done properly, I don't see a problem. Do you have a picture showing the scale of the issue?