350Butcher

Think I have spaghetti arms too so we're all good! Suppose my point is with that kind of budget there's is some of the very best stuff available, if I see a set of either that I've mentioned behind your wheels in a build thread somewhere I will be very jealous The PF set up is definitely rarer on street/ track day cars but they are big in motorsport you're also tied to PF for the only pads you can use that I'm sure puts off a few but that is like saying you're stuck with only Megan Fox to sleep with so I'm ok with that and I nearly ordered a set of these as a result But the alcons are the choice for BMW Csl Cup brakes Noble's new 650bhp M600 So proper proven stuff! And to go back to the original topic I think spending a £1000 on upgrading pads/discs etc with the use of standard Brembos is good enough for most fast road/track work and probably up to taking on most basic BBK available and if you do need something really up to the job then you need to be saving up and going for this level of stuff to really notice huge benefits and take it to the next level.

This is just my opinion and I'd just urge you to maybe do a bit more looking into it before parting that kind of money, but these are the fronts from Alcon, they maybe bit cheaper else where but these came up: http://www.rosssport.com/Brands/ALCON-BRAKES-COMPONENTS/ALCON-KITS-COMPONENTS-NISSAN/ALCON-ADVANTAGE-EXTREME-KITS-NISSAN/ALCON-AdEX-FT-365x32mm-6P-NISSAN-350Z-ALCF97ZG02-03F7E +£250 for some proper pads as the DS's they come with are no good for track work unless you're not tracking it, leaving you a couple of hundred quid left to sort some rear pads/discs. This set up hurts it brakes so hard, I promise you! (and I had 343mm discs on my Evo, this is a 365mm kit) PS.. if that really is the size of your arms, then you my friend are right and you can do whatever you want!!

What have you priced up there? Don't make the mistake of more pistons is always better either if you're referring to the ZR31 caliper

Brakes seem to be a hot topic at the moment! The 350's brembos are very good they are just in need of a proper set of pads, braided hoses and fluid that can cope. I've been regularly tracking a Zed for last 5 years and brakes are not a problem at all. Do a search and you'll find all the advice you need just make sure you pick through and find who's talking from experience and worth listening too. Nearly £4k on these!! You'll get change going for Alcon advantage kit (which I've owned on my Evo) or Performance Friction ZR31 kits both monobloc calipers and proper proper motorsport stuff that will tear your eyes out your head.

Do you mean JWT? C1HR cams? Went for the Tomei's as I like the specs to give me the results I'm after while still remaining acceptable for normal use and not pushing all the power to the very top end at the expense of a solid midrange. There's also the huge plus that they are as wild as you can go with keeping the factory pistons. I kept toying with the 3.9FD and probably should have done it before but the reason I went for it now is after this round of work the engine should be making good power all the way to 7500rpm maybe higher which meant I'd be hanging onto the already very long gears for even longer so it was a no brainer to swap it as part of this lot so it pulls through the gears easier and makes the new top end power more accessible. Re the standard clutch/flywheel setup, bin it asap it weighs a ton and definitely revs freer once replaced for lighter single mass setup. I went for the Xtreme kit through http://clarkmotorsport.co.uk/ which comes as full kit which also replaces the troublesome slave cylinder. I'd recommend it but probably would have gone for an even lighter flywheel to be honest but its a nice kit and so far handling fast road and track fine. Diff wise I went with the os giken superlock, its a great bit of kit and I couldn't find a bad word on it when I did my homework and for good reason! I did spec mine myself as I didn't want any lock up on deceleration to help with better turn in but the drive out the corners is far better than stock VLSD, no inside wheel spinning at all and no grabby lock up either just clean tidy traction all the way and totally consistent unlike stock too............if you want to stab the throttle and get it locked up and a smoky over steer exit its happy to oblige too!

They are pricey but right for this level of pads, I've wasted £00's on pads that came highly rated only to be used for 5 mins on a track and then thrown away. I've got no experience with CL pads, whats the modulation and pedal feel like with those? As this is another area that I've always really rated the Pagids If you wanted to try anything Pagid or Performance Friction give Alyn a call at http://asptrading.co.uk/ I think (and say if I'm wrong Rob) the point about re bedding in pads is that if its doing a load of low speed daily commute type driving pads like these can glaze up so taking it for a quick blast and carrying out a few big stops say 80-20 a couple of times gets them back to their best again. Also the point regarding the DS2500 pads is exactly what I found too, they just can't take the heat of track work and fall off very quickly and I even had material transfer on to my discs with them which gave me the worst vibration under braking I've ever had so best to stay away from these unless road use only

I was just trying to write something along the same lines but you put it better than I could. This post was started because of a trader with little knowledge and a lot to sell.

This, but I'd take Pagid RS29 pads and PF Floating discs if budget allows RS29s are hardly everyday pads! lol not sure they're even road legal anyway. Hardcore track-use territory those... I've driven on RS29's for must be 10 years and they are great from cold and handle all the track work you can throw at them, they aren't too aggressive to discs and out last most others too which goes a huge way to justifying their price tag in my opinion, don't even have bad manners in terms of noise either. The one and only down side I find is that the dust they produce does need to be cleaned off wheels fairly quickly and that's about it. I think I'm right in saying proper Porsche's come with these fitted so as for legality I'm sure they are good too

And EBC I wouldn't fit to my mountain bike

This, but I'd take Pagid RS29 pads and PF Floating discs if budget allows

Cheers guys, I'll give them a call

It's the bearing pre load I really want checked on the new pinion I've installed and I don't have the gear for? This is a specialist job as it needs to be set to a very tight and strict tolerance. The shims and the rest I can do really but would leave to someone else to double check if I found someone good. Did you know of anyone?

Not sure this is the right section but...... I've put my diff back together with new bearing etc and I am after a transmission expert/specialist near Warwick if anyone can recommend someone/somewhere? They need to be properly up on measuring bearing preloads in in-lbs and checking clearances and kitted out to reshim if necessary. Cheers

Just to echo Jeff, the harnesses run straight out the back of the seat so no probs anyway and when pulled tight are spot on. I spoke with the guy from GCF when I ordered and I think this bar went through a few versions to get it right and this being the latest addressed any previous issues/concerns. So think a lot of the stuff on forums is bit out of date (always good to do homework on stuff though)

Really can't wait to take it out again, be quite a different car I think addressing a few of the areas I thought let it down a bit My back and knees (that now bend the wrong way) can confirm how low and far back the engine sits!

Hope seller doesn't mind but thought this may help with sale, I have this exact same bar fitted to my car with harnesses attached and there no problems at all.

Cheers!! They should perform as good as they look too. Cant wait to get it all together again and go for a drive

Cheers! Yeah will try and snap away between spannering. Yes its all happening at home in Warwick. Its does add up quickly and there's so many bits that you "should really do that while I'm this far in to it" that it goes up even when you thought the list was finished

Would love the use of a ramp!! Make the most of that if you can. Work started Saturday.... Then I thought I'd best test fit the manifolds as they didn't actually fit with the heads in place (might have gone if it was up on a ramp but not with the room I had). Its a fag paper job to the steering rod and knuckle but it fits Sorry for the blurry pics phone + oily hands Just got to get the heads off to the "shop", Steve thinks about 2 weeks to get them back and then it'll all go back together

Good to do as much homework as possible and make a proper shopping list first anyway before work starts. My family are in Surrey so maybe when the cars all finished you could come and have a look and see if it ticks your boxes and then you can copy my spec over winter 2017/18. Although parts are pricey if you can and are happy to get your hands dirty and do as much as possible then you safe a wedge on labour!

What have you done with yours? I'm really hoping all these bits go and work well together, looking forward to the result and the clock is ticking for May and it's a BIG job pulling these engines apart

You should go for the AD08R's you wont regret it, they are the control tyre for the sprint class at World Time Attack for a reason. Yokohama changed compounds for the "R" to work better in the wet. These can't even be compared to high performance road tyres, If you're doing 3-4 track days a year these are the right for the job, you'll destroy even the best "road" tyres like MPSS on track where as AD08R will take the high temps and loads with no problem at all. Even in the wet they grip really well and more importantly they give up their grip really progressively and as a result on road they perform well too. The AO48 is a full on track tyre which is fine but probably a bit full on for daily/track use car such as yours and mine. As mentioned the "R" replaced the previous tyre so any stock you can find will be quite old now and probably best avoided for such a small cost and drop in performance.

So its getting: Stillen Gen 3 long tube intakes PPE long tube manifolds Tomei Intake and Exhaust ProCam Cams 272 Deg 10.8mm lift Tomei Springs Ported heads with high flow cnc valve seat cut Billet oil pump gears Walbro fuel pump and R35 injectors and to pull through the gears quicker I'm going to put in a 3.9 final drive Vibra Technics engine mounts and prototype gearbox mount Then it'll be getting UpRev'd again with Mark@Abbey No dates yet to go back to the 'Ring, but I am booked on at Anglesey May 29th bank holiday. Friends of mine will actually be there on your dates so keep your eyes out for him is his nice grey Evo 7 and his mate in a Pulsar GTiR

Yeah about the noise!! I'm hoping its not too loud as track days will be a problem but I thought I'd see how it is after and may need a custom system to get the noise down if needs be Power wise, from reading all the stuff in the states seems 15-20HP is possible and looking at stock manifolds there's definitely gains to be had there. It will be getting remapped after I've finished but it's getting more than just the manifolds so wont know how much these add on their own. See the bottom of this link/page for a totally unbiased result of what these can do! http://www.ppeengineering.com/products/nissan/350Z.php

I know we've not had the smoothest of dealings recently but I'm sorry to see this Adrian, fire really is horrible, hope you manage to get things sorted out swiftly. Thankfully everyone was safe