cs2000

Try using the search next time mate, but for now http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/106961-350z-headunit-replacement-guide-with-links-to-parts/

You have a PM, looking forward to these.

Try the guides section in the forum, or search... http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/106961-350z-headunit-replacement-guide-with-links-to-parts/

The 6 LED versions are fine, just look for ones with no big metal heatsink on the rear

Brave brave man. I've done mine too, but only got it to about a 45 drug angle, bought a roller to finish it off. I did end up cracking the paint however as both my arches have rust spots and the cracks started there, but I was using a heat gun on the other areas and they're fine Honestly, it's not THAT hard, you just need to take it slow, and use heat. As for corrosion, general advice to to clean the lip well, do the rolling and then re-seal the newly formed lip with something like silicon so you don't get water sat in there.

Any more of these available?

Correct, now gone to MikeyM. Donation proof was sent via PM Mods, please lock

Hey guys, I have a set of 4 5mm wheel spacers available here. They were supplied by Chris at Tarmac Sportz just in-case they were required for my wheels. Turns out they're very muich not required! I got these for free thanks to Chris, so I don't want anything for them. All I ask is that you make a donation to the club for whatever you think these are worth. Send me a PayPal screenshot of you having done this, and il send you the spacers, sound fair? Club donation link is below, or in the banner above, top right. https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_xclick&business=accounts%40350z%2duk%2ecom&item_name=350Z%2duk%2ecom%20Donation&no_shipping=0&no_note=1&tax=0&currency_code=GBP&lc=GB&bn=PP%2dDonationsBF&charset=UTF%2d8

Haha yeah, but I think you guys are a bit special For most people, they may at the very most do it each time they changer a car.

Wednesday was a very long day at Kaizer! So the job list was as follows; Berks HFC's Invidia N1 Exhaust BC Coilovers P3 Service The service I believe was done first, boring so I didn't get any pictures, but next came the exhaust. The bolts on the old one put up a bit of a fight but eventually it all came off, we unpacked the N1 and this is what we saw. Where's the Y Pipe??? SO off to Tarmac's website and I saw this This would be fine, except the previous owner already fitted a Powerflow Cat Back system, so I didn't have the stock Y pipe. Damnit. Somehow, however, Sly has a Y pipe from Clark Motorsports just hanging around, literally. So yeah, SOLD! http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/90183-new-y-pipe-available-from-cms/ New system mounted up on the rear The CMS Y pipe bolted up to the N1 The N1's tips actually fit in the standard exhaust holes with no mods I also fitted the Drift Works camber arms on the rear, and Sly supplied the Eibach Toe bolts I didn't get any pictures of the coilovers being installed, but it took the guys literally about 45 mins from start to finish! The pile of bits removed from the Z There is only one thing missing really in the box with the Invdia N1, this is a set of ear defenders! Seriously, that, combined with the Berks HFC is absolutely ridiculous! I have tried to fit the silencers that come in the box but they don't fit so I need to do some investigation on this. Just wanted to say a big thanks to Sly, he fitted me in with very short notice, and of course thanks to James and Ashton as they spent literally the whole day working on my car with only a couple of tea breaks haha. They also didn't mind me standing around like an anxious parent watching them work and asking questions! More next time.

Hey all, Due to me needing some more clearance in my arches, I have ordered an arch roller to roll the inside lip up. I know there are companies that do this for a fee, but Arch Enemy wanted 100 for 2 arches. Having done it before, I know that as long as you use heat, and your arches aren't already damaged, and you take it slow, its relatively easy to do it yourself. Just wondered if anyone else wanted to borrow mine after I'm done with it, its kinda a one shot deal isn't it? When you've bought it, you use it once, and then what... hence my offer. Obviously, if anyone does want to borrow it, any damage you do to your car/paint is on your head, I'm just loaning the tool. When it arrives and its all done il stick some pictures up.

Youd also think Nissan would be able to sell you the O rings that seal the spark plug holes in the rocker covers so you could have a cheap fix for the common fault of oil getting into that chamber, but youd be wrong and find out they make you buy the entire rocker cover, or that they wouldn't charge you £35.00 EACH for a brake bleed nipple, but again....

Have a look at the logo on the undertray, is there any U Glad to hear you liked the undertray Installation instructions and pics are available here: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/97969-torqen-10-350z-370z-torqen-undertrays/ Haha yeah I realised as soon as id submitted it and corrected it before I thought anyone noticed, but you were quick in there Quality is great. I did see those instructions and they helped, but things like, what do you use to hold the little trap door up?? I ended up using 10mm panel clips as I couldn't figure out what I was supposed to do Other than that, perfect.

Site looks much better than the old one. Good work.

This weekend was a testing one.... First job was nice and simple, get rid of the old pastic undertray which was 95% cable ties, and replace it with a Torqen 350z metal one. Yes I know its a crappy picture, but its a very well made piece of kit. Having new bolts and clips is a life saver, but it could do with some proper instructions. It all comes together easily enough however when you're under the car. Il get some pics when she is next off of the ground, probably Wednesday. Next, I ditched the idea of arch extensions as actually the car has settled since I had it jacked up fitting the wheels and there is only a few mm of tyre tread showing which can be adjusted easily in camber, but i decided to fit some camber arms to the rear. First job was to undo the bolts on the wheel side, no worries with a 2ft breaker bar as they were copper greased. Next, get off the toe bolts.... Had the car on axel stands, wasn't enough clearance for the 2ft breaker bar to turn, tried to slide the 4ft bar in from a different angle, no luck. I trued using heat, and penetrating sprays to no luck. I then caved in, went and bought an air compressor and a 350lbft rattle gun to try and get the bugger off. Yeah, it didn't even shift a mm. So i resorted to jacking up the car with two jacks to the max they would both go and managed to get clearance for the 2ft bar. Using my feet, and someone else to support the other side of the car so it wouldn't move, it turned then the little **** snapped off! This was 3:30 on a Sunday, as we all know, shops close at 4. I have a garage appointment with Sly on Wednesday so I physically HAD to get this working. I ended up racing to B&Q and getting the bolt that was the same thickness, but another cm or so longer and some Nyloc nuts. Currently the toe angle is all over the place on both rear wheels but it is secured with two bolts which should get me to Sly's so he can replace them with two proper toe bolts. In the end, we did get the arms swapped out, so the camber can be adjusted back into spec when lowered on the coilovers, the only casualty was two toe bolts, and having a temporarily very unstable car, squirms all over the place due to the hugely out of spec alignment! Looking at the sheared bolt, I don't think Godzilla himself could have got this little bugger off, it looks to have well and truly rusted all the way through the bolt and both on the front and rear so I think it was always going to snap, it had no copper grease on it either which didn't help matters. The trials and tribulations continue Wednesday. Stay tuned...

Cool - do you remember what actually comes cable-wise? There's an HDMI output and two USBs on the AVIC F70 DAB I have - are the HDMI and USB cables supplied? You don't get a HDMI cable, but you do get 2 USB extensions, a male to female one so you can either stick a SB dick straight into it, or a iPhone cable. Personally, I have iPhone cable in USB1 and a USB stick in USB2

The cables in the box with the headunit are long enough to run along the centre console and come up in the cubby you don't need any extrensions.

No worries mate, glad I could be of assistance. A proper guide on busters RCA mod is now available here http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107583-how-to-busters-rca-headunit-volume-fix-guide/

Thanks for the comments Yep, assuming you bought the pioneer patch lead (which was the one I linked to in my other thread, youre good to go. Yes, it is a must to be honest. Others who havnt done it have either had to put the volume of the headunit up to full to get anything decent out of it, or but inline boosters at £18.00 each, and you need two. The mod is MUCH cheaper as the only thing you will likely have to buy is heatshrink. Yes, the sub still works. If I'm honest, I'm not 100% sure how or why, but trust me it does. No chance of blowing the speakers unless you turn the volume up WAY past the level that would be considered loud, the sound would distory way before then anyway, same principle as any speakers TBH. Reverse camera is ideal to do at the same time, but it isn't part of this mod per-se.

Really glad to see your target has been smashed. Also, free bump

I was selling this cable pre-modified but I'm afraid its already gone. Glad you like the guide though.

Matty, you have a PM. Elliot, Dibs have obviously gone to Matty but youre second if he should fall through, but, since I like wiring, if by chance you wanted to order the leads, get them sent to me, il do the mod for you and return it, your call. SOLD

Just a FYI for anyone looking to do this. If you struggle to follow Busters instructions, I have now written a guide for this linked below. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107583-how-to-busters-rca-headunit-volume-fix-guide/ Remember, I just wrote the guide, Buster actually figured this out

Hey all, for sale here is an extra lead I bought, purely so I could write a guide for the forum. The lead simply allows you to install a aftermarket headunit and keep your steering wheel controls. Most aftermarket headunits however suffer from a low volume issue when connected due to the RCA connectors on the 350Z, this can be resolved by following Busters hints as shown here http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/58947-reduced-sound-out-put-after-replacing-oe-bose/ I performed this mod on my car, but then thought it would be handy to write a proper guide, so I bought ANOTHER cable, did the mod, wrote the guide http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/107583-how-to-busters-rca-headunit-volume-fix-guide/ and am now selling this cable pre-modified as I cant fit 2 stereos in the car! haha. The cable has been tested and all works, you just need to plug in a few connectors and away you go! New stereo with nice loud volume! The sale also includes the InCarTec 29-025 universal patch lead. This comes with comprehensive instructions and all the required bits to create the cable you need to allow the steering wheel controls to be connected into your new headunit. Its compatible with basically all brands on the market, including generic Chinese headhunts from the likes of eBay. The RRP of the cables come to £39.00 + Delivery, these are brand new, never been fitted and pre-modified so you don't have to do it so I'm asking for £35.00 including delivery. I know its not much of a saving, but I'm still loosing a bit of money for something I did purely for the forum, and you're getting a cable you can just connect without any hassle. ANy questions, ask away. Dibs in the topic and not PM please.

Hey all, I recently fitted a new headunit and was aware of a low volume output issue that seems to affect most aftermarket headunits due to the Bose setup in the Z. I managed to figure out busters instructions for fixing this and have been running this setup in my car for a couple of week now with no issues at all, other have been running this for much much longer. Busters instructions aren't too good however and several members have been calling for a 'proper' guide, so here we go . I will say again, I did NOT figure this method out, the credit for this goes to Buster and his original topic viewable below, I am just writing up a guide for his method. I have made one small amendment however by adding in an extra connector which saves you hacking into your new headunits harness. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/58947-reduced-sound-out-put-after-replacing-oe-bose/ Parts & Tools Required 1x Autoleads PC2-76-4 Nissan 350Z 2003 - 2006 Car Stereo ISO Harness Adaptor Lead £3.85 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261373114757 1 x Nissan 350z Bose Steering control interface - (29-674) £34.99 https://incartec.co.uk/Pages/Product.aspx?P=2975 Soldering Iron & Solder Heat shrink in 2.4mm, 3.2mm and 4.8mm widths with 3:1 shrink ratio Scissors Wire Strippers Multimeter (Optional but recommended) Hack 'n' Slash OK, firstly, grab hold of your Autoleads PC2-76-4 adaptor cable. This is the type of cable used on cars that don't have the bose system, but for our use, we will just be stealing the brown speaker connector. All we need on this is the brown connector and its associated leads. If you look at the writing on the side of them, you will notice each one is printed with a speaker such as "Left Front Pos" and "Left Front Neg". Take your scissors and cut this off. Discard the other piece, just keep this bit. http://i.dankdronedownloader.com/uploads/2020-08/5MZDMb.jpeg Next, grab the InCarTec 29-674 lead and your scissors and cut off the RCA connectors below the gland as shown here. Preparation OK, enough cutting, now into something constructive. Strip the cable ends you have just cut on the InCarTec 29-674 cable, you will see a outside wire, some more insulation and an inside wire. Separate these so that all of the outside wires point off at 90 degrees, then strip the innards too. Now, get your 2.4mm heatshrink and cut 8 lengths of 1 cm, slide them over the wires on the brown connector you cut from the Autoleads PC2-76-4 connector as shown below. Next, grab the 3.2 and 4.8mm heatshrink, cut these into 4 lots 1cm and 2cm lengths respectively and slide these over the wires on the InCarTec 29-674 cable so one fits just inside the other as shown. You should now be able to see that the wire colours between the two harnesses actually match! Purple is Right Rear, Grey is Right Front, White is Left Front and Green is Left Rear. Constructing the Cable OK, so you now need to connect the first of the 8 leads together. Lets begin with purple. The purple lead with no stripe is the Positive connection for the speaker, you need to twist this together with the centre purple cable on the InCarTec 29-674 cable as shown in the bottom of this cable. Then twist the one with the black stripe to the wire that was wrapped around the outside of this purple cable, shown at the top here. Solder these together trying to use as little as you need, then use scissors to cut off the extra bits. When you have soldered these, we now need to insulate the positive and negative connections, so, slide the 2.4mm heatshrink up from the brown connector end over the positive connection you just soldered, heat this up and ensure it covers the joint. Next, slide down the 3.2mm heatshrink over the negative end as much as possible, this may be tight, but this bit isn't 100% essential. Lastly, slide over the larger 4.8mm bit to cover the entire lot up, you have now insulated the Pos from the Neg, and secured the whole lot together. Its a simple case of repeating this fro the other 3 wire colours so your cable looks like the below. Check Your Work!!! Your cable is now electrically connected, but id HEAVILLY advise you to check you have connected things properly. This is where your multimeter comes in, set this to continuity. If you grab the brown connector, you should see 8 pins at the end. Follow these back and you can easily tell which cable connects to which pin. The image below shows the two white connectors, on top of my finger you can see the pairs of cable (White & Black, Grey & Black, Green & Black, Purple & Black going left to right). These colours should match from end to end. I would advise you con connect your multimeter between these ends and check continuity between them. i.e, stick one end in the purple leads pin on the brown connector end, then touch the other end on the purple cable pin on the white connector, it should bleep to indicate there is a connection between the two ends. Then move to the black cable on the white connector, and the purple and black striped cable on the other end. Its hard to explain, but its simple with the cable infront of you! Completed Cable So, now your connections are completed, il just run through what goes where when you come to connect this up in your car. And here is the rear of the Bose headunit The Red circled cable is for the steering wheel controls. This plugs into the connector in the bottom left of the Bose photo. The two Green circles cables plug into the other two white connectors in the back of the Bose unit. These are TOTALLY different sizes, so you physically cannot plug these in wrong! The two Blue circled plugs connect to the corresponding plugs on your headunits harness adaptor, this will usually be a big black connector as shown below. You need to take care here as the brown block has all 8 pins, but the black one only has 5. This matches the pin count in the black block connector too (5 on the top and 8 on the bottom) That's it, your leads are now all connected and if you connect your headunit (and remember to connect the earth loop eyelet on the InCarTec connector!!!) you should have all functions and a nice loud volume! Any questions, ask away!