longsh07

That's some pretty impressive stuff! Would make a great clear coat for paintwork. Looks like it leaves a white tint at the moment judging by the boots at the end of the video.

I keep reading different things which contradict each other! Thanks Ad

Cheers but attachment seems to be broken Post just reads Yep ... can't help with that I'm afraid ... maybe a mod could help ... I'm afraid I don't have a copy on my Mac or laptops because they have all been renewed since I made the calculator Never mind, thanks for your help anyway

Cheers but attachment seems to be broken Post just reads

Good to know, any pictures of it at all Ian? Also that means my option 3 should be fine. Hopefully it will settle my need to modify the car until I can realistically afford the rims without using man maths. Never mind Ian found your build thread

Good to know, any pictures of it at all Ian? Also that means my option 3 should be fine. Hopefully it will settle my need to modify the car until I can realistically afford the rims without using man maths.

Just been doing a bit more reading/research into this and it looks like option two would mean I need to adjust the rear camber or get a camber kit to avoid hitting the arches. As an option 3, I have though about keeping the current wheels (GT4 Rays) and sticking 20/25 spacers on then lowering 30mm. Not seen any mention of this causing any rubbing or needing camber kit/arches rolled. So would this make a good short term solution, while I save some pennies for rims and possible camber kit?

Brilliant, thanks a lot!

So there's no issues with that setup? Thats good to know. Cheers

Hey guys, Sorry if this has been answered already, I have read a bunch of threads but cant seem to find what im looking for. I also may answer my own question but I'd appreciate your thoughts. In future I want to fit some 19" Volk TE37's (ET22), lower the car 30mm on Eibach springs and give it a nice flush look that 20/25 spacers on standard 18" rays gives the car. I also want to steer clear of rolling the arches. The two setups I'm considering are: Front: 19x8.5 Rear 19x9.5 (5mm spacers on front only) Front: 19x9.5 Rear 19x10.5 (no spacers) Setup 1 would poke the wheels out similar to 20/25 spacers on standard rays but is it OK to run spacers on the front only? Setup 2 on the other hand might cause the fronts/rears to rub on the arches, sticking out past the arches, or hit the suspension. Is it OK to run wheels this wide on an standard Zed lowered 30mm? I looked at http://www.rayswheel...19&for=domestic and it says the 19x10.5 ET22's aren't suitable for Zed's with Brembo's unlike the 8.5/9.5's but Im sure i've seen people fitting them without issue? Any thoughts much appreciated! __________________ Below I've included all the inner clearance/outer position info Setup 1 would give me: Front Inner clearance: 2mm more Outer position: extend 14mm (+5mm spacer) = 19mm Rear Inner clearance: 2mm less Outer position: extend 24mm Setup 2 would give me: Front Inner clearance: 11mm less Outer position: extend 27mm Rear Inner clearance: 14mm less Outer position: extend 36mm

Cheers guys will give it a go

Does anyone know which fuse controls the alarm? Also which panel would it be on?

Right, scanned the Nissan Anti Theft System book, sorry its sideways! Had to upload to google docs as was bigger than the limit on here https://docs.google....UFpza080QU9jc28 No joy with the multi meter though as the stupid thing was busted. Spent a bit more time fiddling though and managed to get the chime to sound that indicates you've tried to lock the doors with the key still in the ignition which sounds like its coming from the siren in the boot but still no joy setting off the alarm.

That's what I thought should happen. I'm not getting any of that. Ill have a play tonight and get the multimeter out to see if there is power going to the thing in the boot. Thanks for your help!

Thanks Might have a poke around with a multimeter after work then.

I posted this on another club im a member of and a fellow GT4 owner (believe he is registered on here also as Rabster) said the buzzing comes from the drivers side rear quarter on his car. This kinda ties up with the location of the blackbox/siren.

Will do, but it might have to wait until Im home from work. Ill try and grab the bits over my lunch brake and post them up. Yeah its a UK GT4 (163/176) Here are a couple of pictures.

Yes standard Nissan as far as I know. There was no additional remote or info about an after market alarm when I bought it.

Just wondering if its work disconnecting the battery for a bit to try and 'reset' the system?

Yeah me too, Ive not seen anyone else mention it! Thanks for trying to help

Thanks just read through it but the info is different to my owners manual. Page 2-19 in is all about air bags but looking at the same section (Instruments and controls on page 1-17) it all seems fine. The Indicator LED on my car blinks as it should in the LOCK, OFF and ACC and goes off when the ignition is switched to on. The other book I have, "Anti-Theft System" says the following: "When armed, the system will automatically enter pre-arm mode. If an alarm trigger is received during this time, the alarm does not activate the siren and blinker command but only gives and acoustic warning signal by the buzzer with a continues sound until the cause is removed or the system moves into full arm mode. In the second case, the input triggered will be excluded during the Arm mode." Note: Ultrasonic sensor and self powered siren (tamper alarm) are not signalled during pre-arm time. At the end of the pre-arm time (10 sec.) the system will enter in full arm mode" Im not getting any warning buzzer nor can set of the alarm as I said.

Hoping someone can help. I have a GT4 and was reading the little manual for the alarm. Apparently its supposed to buzz if the alarm is set and something should trigger it? I'd never heard this so I sat in the car, locked it, waited the 10 seconds it says it needs to switched from pre-armed to fully armed then waved my arms around like mad but nothing... no buzzer, no alarm. Did a couple more tests including leaving the window open and waving my hands in, trying to unlock the doors etc. I even tried to open the bonnet while locked and set but the alarm didnt go off! Ive been in the boot and checked the black box/siren behind the spare wheel is plugged and and it appears to be connected up fine. Didnt follow the cables where it runs under the polystyrene though. Is there a fuse for the alarm or anything else I can check as I really want to get it working! Central locking/Super lock thingy works fine, just no alarm. Cheers.

Cheers Alex, going to contact Japex who are not far from me to find out how much they will charge to fit the Exedy clutch and Flywheel once I know I might drop you a PM to place an order. Thanks for all your help guys

Im not an expert so please correct me if im wrong but: Biting point is quite high on the pedal Clutch slips when biting (pulling away and sometimes changing gears), the higher you rev, the more likely it would be to slip Burning smell when pulling away/changing gear I tested mine this morning to see if it was the clutch that was wearing out by turning off traction control, giving it a boot full and popping the clutch up in 1st. Didn't get any wheel spin (would have heard it with the window open) but it ended up hitting the limiter and not moving very fast. Go a lovely burning smell after that! This was probably not the best thing to do but at least it proved it was the clutch. No to drive like a blind 110 year old everywhere until I get it sorted.

So just had a call back from Nissan, Clutch - £609 Retail (they said they could do it £470) +VAT Flywheel - £973 Retail (they said they could do it £860) +VAT So looks like ill be getting an Exedy kit from you soon Alex Fitting at Nissan wasn't too bad, they said 3-4 hours @ £90 per hour but any other recommendations are welcome. Has anyone used Mr Clutch before?