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Posts posted by Keyser
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oil pressure looks a little low mate
Looking good
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9 hours ago, Ian said:
Was going to scrap it but if anyone wants it they are welcome to come and collect it for free
Ah Ha - Can I be that bloke??
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What you doing with the shell?
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Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the OC.
I'm to far South for you but keep an eye on the forum for meets
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On 25/05/2019 at 17:39, wizard said:
What kind of modifications did you do to get the oil pressure sender, the hoses may get in the way. Otherwise people are saying get a triple sandwich plate for the feed line? It's better to take it from the oil pressure sender?
Basically I added a T piece and an elbow from the second pic. I'll see if I can find a picture of it.
No reason you can't take the feed from the sandwich plate that I know I think they just use the oil pressure sender as it is already there and in the main oil feed line from the pump so pressure should always be good.
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1 minute ago, mattross1313 said:
The wife
OK apart from
lack space,
funds,
knowledge,
AND The wife
What's stopping you ................. What have the Romans ever done for us
Brilliant answer BTW got a good out of that
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On 23/05/2019 at 10:22, mattross1313 said:
but I lack space, funds and knowledge
Yer but apart from that what's stopping you???
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Fan shroud
in Wanted
2 hours ago, LukeA said:I was looking at buying them but checked here first so didn’t buy them in the end.
No just standard HR rad.
A lot lot of effort for not really much gain isn’t it? but I suppose it would be good to do and could help other members do it
Probably be harder for a standard Rad - If you have an after market rad like the mishimoto they are basically dead flat so its only a flat ally tray with 2 big holes in it, that's it. Standard Rad is a bit more "curvy" and as you say be a lot of work really.
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I had the same setup
Had to adapt when I fitted an oil cooler
I don't have a pic of the APS sump but that had a top return which I used for the V2, the reason they say to drill the upper sump is because it's a gravity return and it won't work if the return is below the oil level, if you have an after-market sump and can get the return above the oil line you will be fine - or I'm talking bollox - which is a possibility to be fair
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Looking good.
The zeditus is setting in already
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2 hours ago, coldel said:
Similar here, drove up to Coventry bought it drove back to Surrey. Had a little panic on the way back when I noticed the windows wouldn't open, even pulled over and got out and shouted at myself for not checking something so simple, then saw the window lock button...
I got a great mental picture from that - Imagine driving down the motorway and seeing Col giving himself a darn good talking to on the side of the road
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I'm still reading this thread
Keep it coming I think it's a great little project
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Looking good Alex
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Fan shroud
in Wanted
Have you got the fans?
Is it going on an after market Rad?
I don't think it would be hard to make one and you are not that far from me
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9 hours ago, harryjackson said:
@Keyser what would do 200sx build consist of? Would we get some SR20 goodness?
I'd probably build it as a track or drift car, don't know what engine I'd go for, got a lot of turbo bits to add to a standard engine but then I'd have to get it forged so I'd probably look at alternative engines
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Hmmm Dilemma,
I have the 2 x 200SX's back and now I have to decide what to do, I have to many projects for 2 reasons.
1. Space - So much is now in the garage I'm running out of space to actually work!
2. Mrs Keyser - She is happy for me to do whatever but if I fill the garden with rusty car shells she may not be so accommodating!
So what to do????
Do I put the Pop in storage and build the 200SX the better of the 2 shells is recoverable or do I sell it on and get back into the Pop Z.
I can't do it the other way round - well I could but it seems pointless to pull a car out of 9 years storage then put it back in again not to mention you would be storing the donor car just for the parts and storage is going to have a cost attached, that will be more for the two 200's rather than just the Pop.
Been trying to decide on the best option, but I need to do something so I can get back to tinkering.
In other News -
Radical went out on Monday for it's first track day of the year and since it has had the newly rebuilt engine in.
Got to track went to noise testing, Passed that and the clutch started to slip on the way back to the pits
Stripped the multi-plate clutch in the pit lane, then the slave cylinder nothing obvious, went to bleed it back up and the master cylinder stopped pumping
Luckily Merlin who are at Castle Combe have the recon's in stock and only about £5 more than I could get it online.
Fitted that through the tiny hole designed for filling the brake/clutch reservoir - What a PITA job!!!
Anyway did all that and finished during the lunch break, She ran great all afternoon
We ran her on Map 1 (200HP) and a quick run on Map 2 (225HP) - made 5mph more over Avon rise in Map 2 so it seems all is well, pulls better out of the corners as well, We will give her a once over and full nuts and bolts check then get her back out for another run and try the Big Boy maps soon
Keyser Maximum Effort
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Yikes - That really sucks in a straight line
As I've never used the fuse trick I can't answer that - a search on here may help - hopefully some one who knows will post up soon.
Weird that they stay locked, you would think that has to be some sort of valve in the ABS holding it but I've never come across it unless it's in the ABS unit itself.
Here's an off the wall thought for you - Off throttle so TB closes, engine braking starts meaning the inertia of the car keeps engine at high RPM which creates large (than normal) vacuum in Plenum, Brakes are servo assisted meaning the vacuum in the plenum is holding the brakes hard on even when you release pressure with your foot. - That's just a well somethings doing it type thought that may be worth looking at.
I managed almost the opposite with my SC - dump throttle SC still turning at high RPM creates positive pressure before (sticky) blow off valve dumps it - result in very poor brakes going into a bend due to no servo assistance - that was a bum twitch moment!
EDIT: - or a faulty servo? - I have spare if you want to test that theory
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Neat fix
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Doesn't SC = Stability control ??
Also if the TC light is coming on and going off TC is not disabled - it stays on if its disabled. If you are switching it off with the button I don't think it's completely off any way. I think that's why they say to pull the fuse or use the Mod that @cs2000 does.
Any way to answer your question I think your just overloading the system and it can't handle it, TC on a 350 is pretty much just an engine cut it's not a refined racing aid, The car has some clever electronics stability control and abs that "try" to interpret an issue and correct it. hard acceleration then hard braking and cornering deliberately (all be it with good reason) is probably beyond it's comprehension, add to that no doubt upgraded brakes both disks and pads and the cars "corrections" or attempts at it appear to do more harm than good. That's just a guess mind you but I'd start by turning more on board control off.
Hope that helps point you in a good direction
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Loving the work - that Mini has had more TLC in the last few weeks than in the last few years
PS - Tango the wheels
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Humpys 370... Another not going to mod thread ;)
in Member Build Projects
Posted
I wonder what the " a lot more carbon yet to come" could be