kazman

On the way home I noticed that it only occurs when the revs are below 2k. To be fair I suppose it may have always done it and therefore be down to the map as it only happens if: 1 I am below 2k Rpms and 2 I have been on the throttle aggresively before hand and 3 I press the clutch very shortly after coming off throttle my rpms when cold are 1500 btw. About 700 when warm.

My car is pre up rev (55 plate uk) (not nessesarily relevant but are all the other occurences of this on this thread on rev up engines)? and i have never noticed the revs climb when the clutch is depressed untill this morning, so i dont believe its the map....

good stuff, would be nice to know if we all have the same problem

So did any of you get round the problem of the revs rising when the clutch is dipped (at speed)? Mine seemed to be climbing by about 200rpms when i dipped the clutch to change up this morning. Foot deffinately off throttle. I also think that it did not happen if i took my foot off the throttle and waited a couple of seconds before depressing the clutch... does anyone else find this?

I have posted this question in several topics now but no one has been able to help: Do you unlock car with origional fob and then put origional key in ignition barrel and turn on off six times, then do the press the lock unlock buttons on the new fob (whilst origional key is in the ignition) OR Unlock car with original fob, then insert new unprogrammed key in to ignition barrel, turn on off 6 times and then press the lock unlock button combo on the new fob whilst it is dangling from ignition barrel? Really don't want to end up with no working keys and I have found no clear answer to this despite loads of searches! Thanks guys.

Cheers mate!

No need for luck, i have bought it

Really impressive progress. I wish i had your motivation and ability (i suspect having the ability increases motivation levels mind).

No, i want a pre 07 one really, just wondered if many people with a pre 07 car were selling their bonnets to buy post 07 ones (in which case i will wait a bit longer for one to come up before resigning myself to a respray).

Thanks mate. Will keep my eyes peeled on this thread and any others that might come up in for sale. I assume the post 07 bonnet goes straight on to a pre 07 car? And the colour code for GM is still exactly the same?

Bump just incase any one has one laying around and missed this

Sorry to hear of your bad luck. On the plus side though, that was quite a clever first post...

Thanks mate, very thoughtfull of you

As per title. Must be in really good condition with no signs of wear (which is why I need it). Pictures or accurate description would be good if anyone has one floating around spare... Cheers

Same problem, knocking sound when turning wheel left and right when stationary. I got under and investigated and I think it's coming from the drivers side inner track rod. I also have a knocking rattle over the bumps which might be the same issue but I think more likely that it's the compression rod on the passengers side. Or maybe they all make a knocking sound when turning the wheel when stationary?!?

Hi all I have too many stonechips on my bonnet now, and there is a scratch on the front that i have made worse trying to remove (ie i have taken some clear coat off). If anyone has a good condition bonnet in gunmetal for a reasonable price then i would be interested. I have been quoted £180 for a respray, so it needs to be very competitive to this. My car is a 55 plate, so the bonnet type and colour code needs to match this. Thanks

Thanks for all the help guys (including Finbar Saunders quotes) Good to hear the invisible ones are looking like a popular option - i have always been interested in this solution. And yes, im not afraid to admit that i find the rear visibility in the Z quite tricky... though of course i will blame the requirement of it on my GF when my mates ask...

I actually read that thread earlier today, but thanks for attaching it - really kind of you. Ok, bumper off it is. Think i might go for the invisible type sensor if i am going to that effort (i understand that the crash bar is insulated as standard and therefore presents no problem).

Thanks chaps. 15 minute job? I go the impression it took a couple of hours!

Hi all Can anyone tell me if it is possible to fit the conventional type parking sensors (4 of them) to the rear bumper WITHOUT having to remove the rear bumper? Im sure one of the searches i read suggested that you could, but i waould be interested to know how you run the wiring through the grommet without full access? Thoughts from anyone who had performed this / failed to perform this much appreciated

I now have some sorted. Thanks guys

Thanks mate, and thanks for your pm. I was concerned that there was no where to support the front of the car if you are removing that front cross member. I assume there is another point underneath the engine tray that is robust enough to jack up from?

Hi all although my friend and I could not find any sign of wear in the front suspension ball joints, I am assuming the worst and that the drivers side compression rod/ banana bar needs replacing. This looks like a git of a job as the front cross member needs removing ( I assume it does not on the lower control arm), and so I was wondering how many hours a garage would charge for this job? I'm still hoping it's a drop link, had them off today to find that the supplier had sent me the rear ones (despite me emailing them and asking them to confirm it was the front ones they were selling). Thanks

Looking for the front pair. Failing that I need the front passengers side (near side) more urgently. Must be in known good condition. Thanks!

Thanks for the detailed reply, much appreciated. Still a touch apprehensive as this is the kind of issue I am keen to avoid. I would have thought you had to use the old key when you turn it on off 6 times so it is interesting that you used the new key for this procedure. Think I am more confused now but at least I know what to look out for!