Demolition49

I was pootling along in traffic today at 15 to 20 and Then put my foot down a bit as traffic speed increased and then car chugged and died, lucky i was going low speed... So i turned off with momentum of the car with difficulty (no power steering) i noticed oil light blinked then battery before the car died... No engine light? So after i pulled over and tryed to start the engine, it turned over then died immediately... So i got out checked oil + if air filter was in correctly and everything was fine, closed bonnet and she started flawlessly, revved fine too... So now i dont trust the Z at the moment im really baffled? I drove it home with no problems... Any ideas??? Car temp was fine also Apologies for spelling on iphone

http://www.viper.com/SmartStart/iPhone/FAQ.aspx

Dose look very cool but is potentially just as weak as the one above, it could be very easily over come by down loading the app and running it through a few special programmes to crack your code/username and matching it to the frequency of your transponder in the car . Would take a while to work out but could be done . I think after reading morein to these systems I will retract my statement and won't be buying one until they can be proven to be just as Secure as factory =( they look so cool tho I think the viper smart start only starts the engine, car cant be driven without keys in ignition, so worst they can do if they somehow manage to crack your password/steal your phone and find your car is unlock it.

viper smart start looks cool

a smoking ban might be in order, nobody is allowed to smoke in my car

If the car didnt get serviced every year id hate to think what condition the fluids are like in that Z not to mention spark plugs are due every 5 years also, could be alot of hidden costs potentially.

hmmm perhaps this is a good excuse to make the headlining black to match the leather seats?

Even if the car is around 9000 miles its been 5 years... in theory it should have 5 services? whichever comes sooner 1 year or 9000 miles no?

Insurers are bastards to be honest but we all have to get insured... nobody could give you an estimate really there are so many factors that affect your insurance (some vaild and some not so valid which make no sense) all you can do is check on confused, compare the market and insure your motor.

My old man has saved a whole bunch of money opting for the service plan where they fix the amount you pay per month (so you sort of pre-pay for your services every month) it ends up being cheaper. And surprisingly when looking at the mpg gauge on the motorway you can get like 40mpg... ive even seen 50 its actually a very efficient engine... but then you floor it and it goes to around 4 But if your looking at a GTR mate the running costs are a bit of a joke + the services every 6 months, don't stretch too far mate, the 100 quid will cover one tank of v-power or tesco momentum... get a 370 Its a very complex bit of machinery so servicing is naturally expensive... what do you expect from a car with a tranny built purposely for that specific hand made engine

After remapping with MREV2, plenum spacer and HKS air filter, plus some iridium spark plugs at abbey i am more than happy with the end result but cant help feeling even after the gains i got the car is still underpowered, although the remap did make it feel like a different car with a breath of fresh air and in terms of the job Abbey done i couldn't recommend them enough... im running 257 at the hubs which + 35 at the fly is about 292 after mods and remap which makes me sort of annoyed that even after all that im still running less than the car is "supposed to run" (296) what i wanted to run was something more like 320 at the flywheel. Can this be done without going FI? I really feel like ive got the bug for more horses which isnt good for my wallet And is it me or do you find you adapt to the new power gains quite quickly?

Abbey Motorsport in a nutshell

And how exactly do we go around making all these solar panels? Do you know the amount of CO2 that would produce? You cant win, we will destroy the planet, so we may as well have fun now The initial production will cause C02 yes, but once your up and running in the long term savings are to be made + environment saved.... or if you prefer you can run nuclear power create waste that cannot be disposed of and cause radiation... perfect example right now is japan. Your wrong, you can change the whole world to be green its just a matter of money (plenty of money being wasted on fuels that are bad for environment and unkind to environment) and power and the way the human race doesnt like sudden change.

what clutch did you put in and did you replace flywheel?

i heard of silicone ones having lifetime warrantee or something along those lines... might be worth looking in to?

Abbey is worth the journey and some, flawless professional service, i wouldn't take my car anywhere else

it makes no sense why we are still running of fossil fuels when if the whole country has solar panels(even in the uk) on every roof (the whole roof) and a few wind farms well out of the way, wed need no energy except renewable... again its all about money and power Corrupt world we live in.

+1 On getting uprated... its the only way to go as in terms of re-doing the job, you'll of saved your money compared to replacing several times with nissan standards. Its a no brainer really! Wow talk about being overcharged 1 hour labour for max 20-30 min job I had mine done and its so much better not hearing that annoying clicking! (also got from ) Plus now that i have the uprated i dont ever have to worry about my droplinks again job done properly

+ 1 on that, anybody in london?

If you can afford it get some PF discs up front and DBA and rear, i got mine off along with a set of ferodo ds2500, and if your going to fit new discs and pads you might aswell go and get some braided lines too as its nothing in comparison to what youd spend upgrading/replacing all discs and pads

What do you need to know re the dyno plots? The 1st plots is axle hub BHP and Torque. You need to divide the hub torque by the final drive ratio which is 4.651 to 1 this gets your a flywheel torque figure. Hub bhp you can add 35bhp to get a approx flywheel bhp figure. The other dyno plot gives you flywheel torque(the same as above working out) and air fuel ratio. Any more questions ask away , PM me your email addressand I will send you the dyno plots via email. Mark Hi mark thanks for the reply, as tez stated i just thought for nissan quoting 296 id expect to get more, i guess its quite shocking really how low on power the car really was compared to what nissan say... how can they get away with this Just wanted to know compared to the other 296 cars you've remapped if mine was along the same mark in terms of power or was it a bit down or perhaps up? What else would you recommend in terms of bolt ons for the rev-up to get any more gains? I was thinking of race pulleys and sport cats? is there anything im missing. Im also wondering as im running a bit of extra power are there any parts of the car i want to be checking regularly, wondering how the transmission and engine will cope with the extra power, and if anything should be uprated just to make sure kind of thing. You have a PM regarding a digital copy of dyno sheets, thanks.

Any update on my query? Oh crap + 1 on that, i didnt realise it may not work on the 296 model! if not i will have to wait Anyway i just ordered a set of belts from will be good if i can fit these pulleys and belts together

1. andlid 2. jamzee500 3. octet 4. evest 5.keyser 6. Jim Clark 7. DBlock 8. Simon da Silva 9. Daryl 10. Introspect 11. Evilscorp 12. Demolition49 Im in, wonder how much torque is to be gained?

Id also like to say thanks again alex for supplying me with All the parts and also giving such great friendly advise!

Got my car back on the 1st of april from Abbey, the drive home was wonderful, the car felt much more spirited and smoother to drive, felt the power gains definitely in the lower gears! Id like to thank scott for dealing with everything i requested so smoothly and mark for the remap and all the team at abbey for a great job done! Id highly reccommend them to anybody thinking of a remap Overall im very pleased with the remap but im still a little confused on the dyno sheets and would like some break down or explanation if possible! Im not sure how great my gains were as i don't really have much to compare to and didn't get much of a chance to speak with mark, so im just wondering what he thinks? Also if possible could mark or scott send me a digital copy of the dyno sheets i forgot to ask when i was down The new brake setup not only looks great but feels it too, on the way home the pads got more and more bed in and felt better with every stop! So before the remap i got mrev2 and plenum spacer fitted in addition to an HKS air filter, HKS iridium spark plugs, Performance friction discs front, DBA rear discs, Ferodo ds2500 all around the car, goodridge lines, rbf660 fluid, rear powergrid drop links and also an alignment done. I think abbey may have even tightened up the handbrake for me aswell as it feels much better, infact the car feels much better after all the work done, doesn't feel like the same car! Even the handling feels better! maybe its from jumping back in after having the micra courtesy car which was a great little run around and surprisingly pleasant to drive although it may have been a little low on power Another question ive been meaning to ask is what engine oil should i have in the car now? Its only got the stock semi synthetic 10w 40 shell oil that nissan put in after a recent service! I really should have got an oil change while it in with you guys thinking about it So for now ive taken pictures of the dyno sheets but itd be great if abbey could upload some FLY WHEEL POWER & FLY WHEEL TORQUE http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4507212/350Z/Dyno/IMG_1047.JPG AIR TO FUEL RATIO & TORQUE (before it was all over the place - so hopefully will see better mpg) http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4507212/350Z/Dyno/IMG_1048.JPG