Nuno

I've been thinking about doint this for a while, and have had a look at other cars on the forum with the same thing done. I'll attach them some of you dont know what it will look like (hope the owners of the cars wont mind). I'm not a big fan of fibreglass and prefer things to fit right, cant justify the cost of an original nismo kit and its still made from fibreglass. I bought the shine side skirts as they're the hybrid frp material. I dont have a problem with the rear spats being fibreglass as they'll probably be smoothed in. If kits were easily available in abs then I'd go for new bumpers, a chargespeed rear with the carbon diffuser instead of smoothed rear spats and a nismo v3 front

I was wondering if its possible to fit the open cubby thats on the facelift cars to a pre-facelift. I have the retractable cubby lid which is broken and was going to replace it but like the look of the newer one. I currently have the birdview satnav in there (which I dont use), will also fit in the facelift one?

Hi Guys I own a black 05 roadster. Its standard except for 20" wheels and light smoked tints. I have purchased a nismo style n1 spoiler and shine nismo style sideskirts (thanks sarah for the quick delivery on the sideskirts ). I will also be getting the nismo rear spats and hopefully have it all fitted by Mitz & Andy very soon. I'm considering a stealth look and I was thinking of: Smoothing the rear spats into the rear bumper Smoothing the centre line in the side skirts Smoothing the spoiler into the bootlid. Removing the front and rear badges Smoothing the front bumper badge recess Replacing the front grill with black mesh. Painted the side Z emblems and handles either matte/gloss black The front reflectors, indicators and rear lights will be tinted with the flyeyes kit. Colour coding the internals of the headlights. Powdercoating the wheels matt/gloss black Im not sure what lip to get at the front. I'm not sure whether I should go for a vs style cf lip, or varis. Are there any others you guys think would look good? At the moment I'll just be fitting the kit and not painting as I've still not decided whether I should go for a wrap or not, I was thinking matte black What do you guys think?

Thanks for the replies guys, and thanks dblock for taking the time to write the very informative reply. I've never attempted to change any ICE before and was wondering how difficult it is to do, and I will search for some guides. If its not too difficult I'll have a go myself. Are the front and rear speakers just an easy replacement or is there any rewiring involved? If I chose one of the JL audio subs is it a direct replacement or will I have to modify the current sub box behind the drivers seat? What exactly will i need to do for the sound proofing with the dynamat, do i just cover/fill the inside? I wasnt planning on sound deadening the door. Is it something I need to do with the mdf rings/baffle, or if I just place them in the current location will they vibrate too much? Thanks guys, the info has been great so far

Thanks guys. I know going into the store the advice maybe biased on their stock and the need to sell the most expensive equipment. I thought I'd ask here before spending my money, and find out whether it'll be worth what I'll possibly be paying for. I tried to find a few prices for the JL gear, the Car Electronics instore price inc vat is £200 higher then their website price at http://www.celstores.com Website & instore price: JL Audio XD600/6 - £399.62 & £499.96 JL Audio C2 600X - £97.02 & £119.95 JL Audio C2 6650C - £161.71 & £199.99 JL Audio 8W3v3-4 - £108.74 & £153.19 Total - £767.09 & £973.09 I'm being charged £102.12 inc vat for wiring, what exactly do I need and is that a reasonable price, as well as the price for the dynamat soundproofing and labour listed above? I'm from nottingham so if anyone can recommend a good ICE centre/fitter thats not too far that would be great

Hi everyone I'm looking to upgrade the ICE in my car. I own a roadster so am already limited to options. I currently have the factory BOSE equipment, although I have upgraded the head unit to a Pioneer AVH-4200DVD. I wanted to upgrade the sub, amp and front & rear speakers in the factory locations as I didnt see the point in putting subs in the boot of a roadster. I think the coils have gone on my rear speakers as they vibrate at high volume, but so do the front tweeters occasionally. I don't know much about ICE but went to two different places for advice & quotes. I dont really want to spend over a grand, but if I am going to spend money on upgrading then I want a significant improvement over the standard BOSE equipment. The 1st place I went to was Car Audio Centre, who advised: Inphase 8" sub, approx £60 Namakichi 6" rear speakers, approx £80 Kenwood 4ch amp, approx £250 This was a brief chat and didnt really go into specific model numbers but was quoted around £700 for the above equipment, labour and parts such as leads and dynamat. I was advised to use the amp to power the sub and front speakers, and run the rear speakers off the headunit. He said this would sound ok but if if it wasnt then I have the option to change the fronts at a later date. He did a install on another 350z, only changing the sub and amp but kept the speakers. I personally thought this was expensive, considering I've never heard of the brands he was offering to install other then the kenwood amp. The 2nd place I went to was Car Electronics Ltd. They advised to change everything all the speakers but use a 6ch amp. I also was considering a rear view camera at this stage that I could also connect to my head unit. This was the equipment (prices excl vat): JL audio 8w3v3-4 sub £127.66 (after I was told its possible to fit a JL 10w0 sub aswell that could be done at the same cost) JL audio C2 600x rear speakers £99.96 JL audio C2 650C front components £166.66 JL audio XD 600/6 amp £416.63 Rear Camera (CKO VA9 or cw646 http://www.c-ko.co.uk/rvcameras.html) £85.11 Wiring £85.11 Dynamat £51.98 Labour £200 Total = £1479.73 inc vat Their prices for the equipment is higher then what i could find online, but they wouldnt price match websites. I was advised that I could save £100-150 by using the 4ch amp instead to power the speakers and use a monoblock for the sub, but could affect sound quality. What are your views on the 2 options? I thought £1500 was alot for this kind of ICE upgrade but what do you guys think og the the JL audio equipment? Thanks in advance for any help and advice

I have 20s +35 with 245/35 & 275/35 and no rubbing. If they rub on the suspension strut because of the offset and tyre width on full lock then you may want to use spacers. If they rub on the wheel arch then you may want to roll the arches. I'd go with the eibach pro kit springs as a cheaper option, and if they rub on the arches then roll them, which is what I'm thinking of doing also.

what kind of tint film did you use, standard car window tinting film or the vinyl overlays from ebay?

If you're going to buy spacers just to make sure they clear the brembo calipers I would suggest you test fit wheels. The rears may clear but I don't think the fronts will, I have et35 and they're 2mm from the front caliper and clear the rear fine. If you're doing it for looks then put the wheels with tyres on again before you buy some spacers. They're wide wheels so may not look too bad, if they look ok but touch the front caliper you could try using shims on the front.

There's lots here... http://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadster/4 ... re-54.html I would go for some nice 19 or 20s first

I managed to complete the first part, buy am confused with the second part.... " Without Consult Turn ignition On. Turn diagnostic mode selector on ECU fully clockwise and wait until inspection lamps flash. #Number of flashes displayed indicates corresponding mode. Note number of flashes, then immediately turn diagnostic mode selector fully counterclockwise." where is the diagnostic mode selector and ecu?

Thanks for the replies. The car has not been modified and yes it's in gear correctly. I have tried to reset the ecu via the manual method but I can't seem to get the cel light to blink, so it seems as though it's not being done properly but I hav follwed the steps correctly. Is there any other way to do it myself without any equipment or will I have to take it to the dealer to reset the ecu?

No there aren't any warning lights. I'll try to reset the ecu once I figure out how to do it to see if it helps. What do you mean by sequence to activate the fault code? I also read the sticking throttle thread. Would using a fuel additive or cleaning the throttle body help in this situation?

I have noticed a new problem yesterday. When I put put my foot down to accelerate the car starts to deccelerate for 1-2secs when it reaches around 4-5000rpm, it slows down by 5-10mph and drops 500rpm, then after continues to accelerate. 1st gear is fine but it only happens with 2nd gear onwards. Gear changing is not a problem, only the decceleration when I don't want it to deccelerate. Anyone know what's wrong or had the same problem and how I can rectify it?

we all know it's a term used in a derogatory manner rather than an abbreviation. And you're right the thread is about clamping, so why you felt the need to mention the ethnicity of the person who clamped your car I do not know, no one needed to know and I'm sure no one really wanted to know. I highly doubt if it was a white person who clamped your car you would have felt the need to mention it was a white person. But thanks for letting us know it was a 'paki'

nothing racist? calling a pakistani a paki is just as bad as calling a black person nigger.

why dont you carbon wrap them for alot less?

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Here's some pics for anyone deciding to go for 20s. They are 20x8.5 with 245/35/20 front & 20x10 275/35/20 rear, ET35. Rear dish is 4". I wanted 245/30/20 front & 285/30/20 rear tyre sizes but came across these used tyres and decided to save some money. The rears clear the brembo calipers fine, but the fronts are very close about a few mm, and also close to the suspension strut. I can tell the front wheels are rubbing on full lock but seem like they're a good distance from the wheel arch. The car still rides and handles fine. The car is sitting higher than I would like so will be lowering it soon possibly with the eibach pro kit, but wanted more than a 30mm drop and then roll the arches. The windows are also tinted medium smoke 35%. Future mods are a vs style carbon front lip, nismo side skirts with the centre line smoothed in, nismo rear corner spats smoothed into the bumper, nismo rear spoiler, colour code the handles and smoke tint the rear lights and bumper reflectors.

thanks. i would do it myself but dont have much time to do so. just wanted an idea of what to expect to pay

I have gotten quotes for a few places to fit lowering springs and they vary by a considerable amount. What price should I expect to pay for fitting some lowering springs from a reputable garage and how long should it take? I may as well change my front and rear pads and tighten the handbrake at the same time, can anyone tell me what price to expect to do that as well please?

I'll put some up soon

I have just put some 20s on mine. 20x8.5 with 245/34/20 front, 20x10 with 275/35/20 rear, ET35. The rears clear the brembo calipers fine, but the fronts are very close about 2-3mm to the calipers and also close the suspension strut. They look pretty good and dont really need spacers. I'm not having any issues at the moment but the car is sitting a bit high so I will be lowering it, so the tyres may or may not rub against the arches, if they will I'll have to roll the arches. If I were you I'd test fit the wheels to make sure they clear you calipers before buying spacers, if they are touching the calipers you may be ok with getting some shims. Remember to take that bolt off on the front hub otherwise your wheels wont fit on.

I'm going for the stealth look too. I'll be doing the wheels in matt black too and the badges/handles in kuro black. Your car looks good but I'm not a fan of the grill you got in the front bumper. What did you use to tint the lights/indicators, vinyls or spray? How much did it cost to paint the handles and badges or did you do it yourself? Your car still seems like its a bit high considering its lowered 30mm, you got any pics of what it was like before it was lowered?

Mine's a roadster so it was smooth no holes when i took the rear badge off, i did contemplate whether to put the badge on or not. the front had two small tabs sticking out in the recess