Mark@Abbey m/s

So you go out on your 1st track session with say 34 psi frt 36psi Rr, then do your 1st session you come back in the pressures have gone up to say 38psi frt 42psi rear , you lower the pressures to 36psi frt and 38psi rear this is your warm tyre pressure , then you do another session do the tyres not gain anymore pressure? if they do do you leave them as is or do you lower the pressure to your warm temperature pressure?

Send me a email to mark(@)abbeymotorsport.co.uk.

This kit is for a DE (276bhp) motor it wont fit a REV UP like your Wasso. I know Cookbot modified his bracket but I am afraid we wont due to strenght issues. It has only a couple of brackets missing from the intercooler/supercharger oil cooler set up, very easy to make; I was going to fit it to my Red 350Z car but I think I will soon be moving this car on to make way for either a 350Z convertible for cruisng or a 370Z for development usage.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HKS-350z-Rotr ... 20be06a6d5 Get yourself a bargain guys; http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/nismobear1/?_ ... 4340.l2559

Neil, I am not saying that I know everything far from it but I am sure we can have a reasonable discussion on here to help other people understand trackday tyres pressures. I agree a heavier car will need higher tyre pressures , but when you run on the track and the tyres start to heat up due to friction the pressures climb fairly quickly, we then lower the pressures to keep the tyre pressures around the idea pressure. I agree a higher tyre pressure will make the tyre be stiffer on the sidewalls but a higher tyre pressure can cause the tyre to ballon and over heat so losing grip, Neil have you ever used a tyre pyrometer to check temps across a tyre after coming off of the track?

I disagree, blow your tyres up to a high pressure they will ballon in the middle of the tread due to the flexibility of the tread carcass. That's why when your tyres pressure's climb high the call will over heat the centre of the tyre more. A RWD car will work the rear tyres harder than the front tyres, that's why I say remove more pressure from the rears, and to be 100% correct you may need to remove a little more from the left front as this will work harder than the right front. I have worked in Motorsport for over 15 years so i do know a little about car set up.

you need to run the cold pressures lower as the tyre heat up the pressure climbs and the tyres ballon in the middle. Running higher pressures for sidewall strength doesnt work as it will cause the tyre to ballon; if your only doing 3 laps runs knock around 2 psi from the rear around 1 psi from the front, any more laps than that may be 3/4 psi removed from cold tyre pressure's

You have a PM; Mark

yes in stock and ready to go as they say!!!! Ring Scott on 0188 732331 ext 2 Mark

286bhp or do you mean 278bhp? I have dyno plots with Milteks system's but no HFC's with stock systems yet.

Quote as requested; We can also supply Milltek full exhaust and Milltek Y pipes at good price from stock and Motordyne Y pipes as well.

Berks delivery has turned up, from the 6 sets of each Cats we ordered 350Z (DE/REV UP) and the 370Z (350Z HR and all 370z's) we have 5 sets of 350Z and 5 sets of 370Z HFC,s left. Berk Race cats deals; 350Z DE/REV up berks are £400-00 inc vat 350Z HR/370z berks are £435-00 inc vat we will fit these free of charge is you book at UPREV remap at the same time and even give you £25-00 off of the Uprev price. so to supply fit and remap a DE/REV up will be £777-00 inc VAT HR/370Z will be £812-00 inc VAT

Sounds like the car wants a throttle reset/idle set up to allow the idle speed to be correct. ECU Resetting Procedures Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second?s needle will be useful. ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second?s needle will be useful. Operations Procedures 1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds. 2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5. Wait about 10 second. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8. Turn ignition switch to ?OFF? position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Operation Procedure 1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Operation Procedures 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch is ?ON?. 3. Turn ignition switch is ?OFF? wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning) It is better to count the time accurately with a clock. Operation Procedures 1. Perform ?Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning?. 2. Perform ?Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning?. 3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. 4. Turn ignition switch ?OFF? and wait at least 10 seconds. 5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds. 6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD) 7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON. 9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON. 10. Start engine and let it idle. 11. Wait 20 seconds. 12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications. or visit a friendly garage with Nissan Consult 2/3 to reset both the throttle and idle speed very quickly. hope this helps

I think you maybe lucky and get the angles back in spec with sometime on the 4 wheel alignment, it would be a pretty big hit to damage a hub, the subframes do tweak thou but normally you can get the rear geo back in spec.

The hissing is all to do with cam control on over run we normally find , Scotty is your noise at 3000rpm on the over run or on full throttle? On the 350Z we tweak the cam map ont he over run to help with popping on the over run , we still cant get into the cam control on the 370Z so we are a little stuck at the moment on the 370Z's. But I think cam control remapping wont be far away with the Uprev software. Mark

When you carry out 4 wheel alignment when adjust the rear camber/track you have to juggle both eccentrics to get both the camber/toe correct. You can't just leave the camber link in the same position and expect the angles to be correct Get the car on a laser 4 wheel alignment machine.

its back to the old MOT rules are different to construction and use motoring laws. Mark

We done this a few times on 350 Zed's with good results.

I thought this was brought in as law a long time ago.

Sam, I think after 1994 if a car had a cat fitted as standard I think it is illegal to run the car without. I would need to have a look around to be 100% sure thou , spot checks are getting more common around built up area's I have heard.

P1283 NISSAN - Air Fuel Ratio (A/F) Sensor 1 Lean Shift Monitoring Bank 2 sounds like the front lambda on bank 2 has had a fault, you maybe luckily and reset it and it wont come back on. Another good idea is to swap the front lambda'a over from bank 1 to bank 2 and vice versa. This sometimes sorts the problem out. I doubt the plenum spacer/air filter will be the cause. Mark

The cats have a matrix inside that converts the exhaust gas into a safer gas , a stock cat is around a density of 500 dpi where as a HFC(high flow cat) is nornally around 250/200dpi so it is less restricting,so the exhaust gas flows easier so less restricting , but still allows the car to pass the MOT emission test. Being less restricting fitting HFC's makes the car's sound a lot better and then fitting a nice exhaust system and a remap will keep the car legal and let the car sound and go like it should. hope that helps.

It wont be a Stillen exhaust on the deal it will be a HKS , are you still interested? I also have a big berks delivery on it's way to the UK so we can also add a set of HFC,s into the deal if your interested in the HKS super sound master exhaust system. Mark

We can do you an awesome deal on an exhaust and include a Uprev remap if so needed. Please dont count us out thou as we arent the cheapest labour rate but far cheaper than a main dealer but we know the 350/370 Zeds really well and have the latest diagnostic equipment in house.

If it is in the sandwich plate it can be in the oil flow to the oil cooler or oil flow from the cooler, so you need to make sure they are in the same place before comparing.