GT4 Zed

Anyway congratulations Dan for popping your Ring cherry and had a good time doing it It is so bloody expensive which is why i don't do a UK track days for 2 yrs now so i can focus all my eforst there and i think its worth it! The trick is to buy a Jahreskarte and so you can drive unlimited laps the whole year and your subsequent trip become more affordable I think its a good thing you did not get to use your R888s as it would goaded you to carry more speed into corners and possibly run into trouble but also the brakes would be called to do more work and overheat Your laps were conservative as expected but smooth following classic racing lines but if you spend longer there you would find that most Ring corners require late braking and turn-in to get the best weight transfer and rear-end grip therefore confidence to put power down earlier. So BBKs will shave a big time of your lap My first laps where 10-11sec then 9-10sec on a standard car as confidence grew but a could never seem to get into 8s. I did high 8s with suspension upgrades and uprated pads but after i got my BBK i am in low 8s with best BTG of 8:15. I am sure that getting more experince has also contibuted but the BBK just gives you so much confidence. I am yet to try with R tyres and that would be my next test when i go this summer and i should get some footage now armed with an HD bullet cam and the £10 jobbies Anyway how many laps did you get out of the £500? Did you get any inar tuition? That and chasing an ring veteran improves your knowledge of the track alot.

The BTG time is from this "Bilstein" bridge at start of Tiegarten and ends with the "Audi" bridge as you get unto Dottinger hohe straight I am sure this video is not that of his best 9:38 lap as this particular lap would be about a 10:35 BTG, if as you rightly pointed out include 30 secs of missing footage between his video start (@ Hohenrain) and the odd 5 secs missing before he got to the Audi bridge

As usual we have the usual suspects who instead of contributing in constructive argument feel inadequate and the need resort to hot air and name calling The OP questions was of a subjective nature infering sharing of ideas about the "best mod for money". ultimately the choice or correct answer will be borne of personal circumstance or budget from all info gained. What mods or tuning route for the zed has been covered to death here ir in the US and is not a mystery anymore. I have a lot of respect for some of the tuners here and will go by their recomendation anyday. But as mentioned before it is obvious that some of us here cannot appreciate what is being asked or show respect for fellow forum members. Please do grow up chaps

Correct on all accounts Dave. the PS and BHP figures always get noobs confused VQ35DE: 276 BHP = 280PS VQ35DE Revup: 296BHP = 300PS VQ35HR: 309BHP = 313PS Dual intakes is the most distinguishing feature in the HR as mentioned for the nth time

A lot of weight like 200kgr??? Because rims apart (rays are perfectly light) i cant see how you can get the coupe below 1500kgr. Thing is you still want a car drivable every day. you need the air con and the stereo. oh and the door panels. Then add roll bars, thicker sway bars, heavier brakes, bracings, even the adjustable a-arms are heavier than the stock ones. grrrrrr Racing buckets, removing spare wheels, thicker carpets, swapping body panels, doors, boot and bonnet for carbon items, 17" lightweight wheels would get you close that figure but thats about the limit and it costs shed loads unless you want to go balls out and strip the car like a race car etc Running with just enough fuel required on track also it makes a noticeable difference However unsprung weight is the killer and the relation is a factor of 4-6. 1kgs removed is equal to 4-6kgs of static weight So lighter brakes, tyres/wheels should be targeted more. Get rid of those Dotz

I am afraid they do , Steve (Mr Lizard) race car came alive when we fitted the Mrev, Gamma exhaust system , Resonated De-cats and a reflash made a huge difference in torque and bhp. What i meant was the differences were small and poor bang for box. Eg i took of the HFC and MREV2 and remapped the car and the was only a 6HP loss and 12lbft torque I sold these items and My HKS RS coilovers and bought KW V3 coilies which further transformed the car which still brings us to the original argument. What is the Best VFM mod? It is relative and certainly if you want to get every drop of perfomance from the zed then you need to put everything in, but do the extra few miserly ponies/torque represent VFM? It would in Mr lizards case as he is in competitive racing but does this aply to Joe bloggs? I think not, unless if that's what Joe Bloggs wants and that a different argument. But the OP's post was about VFM not what can be done to get the most power in a zed as the possiblities are endless. Really even at idle/low rpm what do you need to bother tweaking the map or does the UTEC cancel the closed loop aprt of the stock map. With you year car you can have multi maps on the cruise control switch so you can have economy maps , valet maps , unleaded maps with out any extra switches and wiring. I can even supply a modded ECU so the DE boys can have multi maps on the cruise switch. I am aware you can do this with Uprev now Mark and I agree its worth it, so not sure what you mean. My maps are just progesively tunes with different combinations of mods i had (the usual suspects minus headers). We swapped so many combos eg OEM intake with AEM intake, K1 with bungs on and off etc and the Map 4 is the best combo -full fat. This gave almost 20HP more than the rest and but the biggest difference seem to come from running the K1 with bungs! Bungs on is best. The MREV to gave torque gains the middle but little change in peak torque. I was disappointed about my gains from the these hence why i got rid of this and HFC. When i when for MOT it was on map 4 and it failed the emissions so i just switched to OEM map. How it works i dont know, i just drive the nuts off it But the Novidem isn't cheap like the Vortech kit(espec when S/H) , which I am afraid isn't in the same league at the HKS S/C kit with refinement, power delivery. Have you driven a S/C when the belt is removed your finded the charger is restrictive when it is sucked throu. Yes i am aware it will be restrictive and agree its not a practical solution. but VFM the Novidem is £58/WHPgained and 75 shot NOS is £80/WHP gained is if you assume they cost £7000 and £4000 respectively (it will still come in at £61/WHP gained if it cost £3000 to install ) This calculation is based on a zed with 260WHP which is a good average with most mods and Uprev reflash . Similarly a new bolt-on standard Vortech V3 kit is about £5k installed therefore VFM is £50/WHP. It may not be "refined" as the HKS but thats was not the point of the argument and it is debatable At the end of the day i know where you are comming from Mark and you/abbey are among the best there is and would not hesitate to follow you advice but tuners are interested in what is the most performance they can achieve and may not always be the best VFM route for the client

guys Very nicely done car

Personally if i was to start all over again bearing in mind that i track the car and have had so much fun doing so and developing the car towards this goal, i would go again for: - coilovers - adjustable ARBs and droplinks - BBK with race pads - go for lightweight 18"Rays with R tyres as my wider 19" wheels though giving more grip are slightly heavier and tyres for this sizes cost much more. - reduce weight were possible eg seats - and finally just get a plain remap with no HFC, Plenum mods, exhaust etc All these (HFC, Plenum spacer, MREVs, or ypipe, 3" exhaust etc) made little difference at the end of the day If i was never going to track the car then the D1 controller (or Uprev), eibach spacers and uprated pads would have been my limit and the rest spent on cosmetic changes.

Will take the pan spacer and oil cooler

Frankly the best mod for sensible money is a the D1 controller followed remap +/- supporting mods The next logical step is a full forged NA tune or FI depending on your chosen goals/use as cost will be similar in the end Or buy a more powerful car I really don't think NOS can be considered seriously as a longterm viable mod or value for money and as such i've never been though i appreciate Wasso's efforts and determination to be different If you consider ~280WHP the limit with a remap, supporting NA mods and the luck of a strong engine to begin with then 309WHP acheived by Wasso with 75 NOS shot represents only a 29WHP gain while it will cost similar to setup a basic SC kit In real terms its more like 30-40WHP gain since the best NA zeds here are running between 270-274WHP(with he exception of Greekman who has modded his VQ35HR )

Laggy topend monster Comes alive at 5k rpm

Way to go fella Now paint the whole thing black apart from the projector casing and i'll buy it off you This is what i'm after

Looks very cool as expected Thomas +1 on debadging. Just a black zed badge will be finish off the rear and even the front end: Close up of my rear zed badge: front end :

+1 but its still alot of work thats best tackled by the hands of a pro valet service take pics and numerous quotes for a full monty valet package and for a respray(should be circa £200-300) and get the council to pay for it i will choose the valet off course unless if they can't guarantee removing the tar which i doubt

Nice photo comparison Dave I have the silvertec I agree the Phillips look too whitish and may be a problem on a bright day for other road user to see it clearly

yup or Opie for wider variety brands of either Dexron II or III Got Motul

What do you have to loose? i could take you up on this

I think you will find that ALL of those cars are 5x114.3 Epic fail either way You can be anal sometimes Ian Its obviously a typo from my part . Of course all those cars are 5 stud with PCD114.3 like the zed. In my original post i just hastily assumed that because there was no stud pattern mentioned then it will be the wrong fit. All the OP had to do was confirm or querry which he did So so long as its 5 stud its fine and does not change the fact that the ET is crap

R32 R33 R34 S14 S15 These all have 4x115.3 AFAIK The zed is 5x114.3(also written as 5114.3) ie 5 stud as opposed to 4 studs for the above

Those wheels will not fit on the Zed wrong PCD unless its atypo And ET+40 in front is crap! Might not clear the brembosmand if it does you will need minumum 25mm to get it flush! Rears will be perfect at ET +15 For tyres 245/35/19 and 275/35/19 will be adequate without risking rubbing and therefore arch roll considering the ET+15 and lowering on springs but a 285 might be squeezable

Either way a FAIL Ian Nice vids and editting as we come to expect from Simon

They played average (for the men on the park) at best. +1 Still very poor imo. Must get some of those rose tinted glasses that the pundits wear With you on this one Dave Yes we played better in the context of the other games but it was slovakia and we still struggled with finishing. Capello could have been brave with his team selection from start. Rooney was still lost and would have been effective as a sub. Why does crouchie not start. He has form and stats on his side Lampard is also lost and ends up playing deep so why is here there? We might meet Ghana, Germany or Serbia next but i feel is Germany who will nick it from Ghana. either way the test stiffens and we need to step up or come home

Its not over till the fat lady sings comes to mind

The grooves explain the noise in part and also becos' yellow stuff are more aggresive with higher metallic content. I get this on my slotted BBK with race pads moreso than when i used sports pads. Its even more noticeable if you brake gently and your window open you can hear the abbrasive sound . IMHO I don't think that makes the TG incompatible with yellow stuff and i would not worry about it +1 that is will lessen with more wear.