matth76

Not many answers here so thought I would bump it with another question: I know it is a well known fact that decat pipes will lose you a small bit of torque low down the rev range but you get good gains mid to upper rev range. People on here have experienced this first hand when they put their stock cats back on and the car had much more urge lower down. My question is does the Uprev remap remove this issue of loss in torque below 2500-3000 revs?

Rbiscuit, totally agree and can see how it may look like that regarding my decats part of my question. I have removed it and added it to one of my other posts, which related to cracking and rasp noise with decats / hfc). Here I'm more concerned to know about the Uprev remap and how it will work with my car (real dyno figures). I've searched the Uprev threads as I didn't want to keep posting questions (quite a few pages) but couldn't find this info for a 276bhp car with similar basic mods (other than just a popcharger) that had had the Uprev.

I've got a 2005 276bhp 350z. My current mods are Nismo cat back (including Nismo Y-pipe) and MD 5/16" plenum spacer and drop in panel filter. I'm having the Uprev remap in a couple of weeks. I've searched the threads on here but can't find a definitive answer to my question. Has anyone had an Uprev remap with similar basic bolt-on mods to mine on their 276bhp car and what kind of power increase can I expect to see after the Uprev? I've looked in the Uprev threads and can only find info relating to the 2006 rev-up model with these mods that had the Uprev, not the 276bhp model (I think there was only a stock 276 and one with a popcharger - but not plenum spacer, cat back and Y-pipe). [edit] Thanks for any info.

All very true - with the exception you don't need to leave the car stationary while it warms up. You can drive off immediately but keep the revs below 3/3.5k for first ten mins at least. Normal operating oil temp takes at least 10-15 mins. Modern engines fill with oil immediately so would never be starved in any areas but the oil will circulate better and become much more efficient when at normal operating temps. To aid all of this I always drive under 3 to 3.5k revs for first ten mins at least (more in winter). My old golf used to have an oil temp gauge and was perfect for knowing when it was safe to take the revs much higher. Was very surprised not to find an oil temp setting in the trip computer on the 350z. I now normally wait until the oil pressure gauge in the 350 sits just below middle at crusing speeds.

During average driving which would last more miles Vredestein Ultrac Sessanta or Bridgestone RE050A to those that have used either, how many miles did yours last? I've done a lot of searching but can't find info re wear rate mileage. Ideally I'm looking for a tyre which lasts at least 12k miles. Thanks for any help.

Upon looking inside the cabin of a 350z (even early 350z which I have) it "looks" the part with silver trimmings. It is only really on very close inspection or touching the surfaces that you realise it is just made to look nice. It certainly looks much more inspiring (mainly due to the silver trim and unique centre dash/pods) than an E46 M3 which I was considering buying before getting my Z (the BMW dash may have been made of quality material but it just looked very bland). There is no question the "quality" of the materials is not on a par with German makes but it does "look" the part. Nissan clearly spent most of the money on the performance and engine, which is not far of mid-range performance of a Porsche 911. I (and am sure most others) have not bought the 350z for the interior, but more about how it drives and performs. To me as long as it "looks" nice inside the cabin that is all that matters. Every specialist/garage who I take my car to always say the 350z is always a rock solid car build-quality wise (which was one of your questions). I was planning on getting the updated interior model (06 onward) but after sitting in one and an early one I found there really was very little difference, other than a bit more silver trim (but still the same "plastic" silver trim, just more of it). I opted for a 55 plate to avoid the £400 tax and also to get the model which has the most torque out of all three 350z models. However if you have the budget I would go for a late 07 "HR" model (has the updated interior and better engine), or if money is not an object get the new 370z - they have added much more leather to the interior and it looks stunning inside and out.

D'milla nice write up. Was your car totally standard before the Uprev reflash?

Thanks for your reply and confirming it is the 'A' version that is used and thanks to everyone else too for your replies.

Thanks for your reply. When I do the search for the RE050 (not the "A" version) and click "apply filters" it says all three results are for the Mercedes S class (however one of these would surely be fine for any other car too - however there do appear to be differences between all three to do with compound or something). The only Bridgestone RE050 tyre they say is for the 350z is the "A" version, although I could have mis-read it. Is it the "A" version that everyone uses whey they say they have RE050's?

Thanks, yes the Ultrac Sessanta's look good. On the question of the RE050's there appear to be three different types, all RE050's: http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m61b0s315p0 - what's the main difference?

I too considered the E46 M3 before getting my 350. I have to agree the views you get here may be biased being a Z forum but it's useful to get opinions from both sides. The main thing I discovered was as one user mentioned above was the engine failure issue due to bearings. This was apparently very prominent in all years up to end of 2003. However after months of investigating on the M3 forums no-one could confirm if BMW in fact changed the components of the parts which were affected on the factory line for the 2004-2006 years (other than just adding uprated oil pumps or replacing parts under warranty) so I was not convinced the E46 in all years would be a safe bet. More worryingly I also found out owners without a full mfr warranty (ie over 3 yrs old) would not get a new engine replacement or rebuild if their engine failed in all cases. It would depend on the dealer and in some cases a fight would be on your hands. Not acceptable in my eyes. I was happy to accept common problems but a risk of engine failure was a bit too much of a risk. On the question of comparing the M3 to Z - the interior of the E46 would definitely be better made and the car would be slightly faster stock for stock. The earliest 03-05 Z's actually have slightly more torque than the M3 (Z has 274lbs/ft compared to mid 260's for the M3, not a lot but worth noting since it was mentioned above). However as also mentioned above, for the same price of a Z I would be looking at an M3 which was two years older with more mileage. That and the risk of engine failure was my main reason for looking else where. Service and maintenance costs (apart from tires if you have the 19" wheels) are supposed to be quite reasonable, on a par with most other BM's so I found out, not much different to the Z. The Z is far more exclusive compared to the e46 M3, certainly in the south east where I live. The E46 3 series (not M3, just all models) is actually recently been mentioned on fifth gear as more common than Mondeos now which I can kind of agree with - they are everywhere. But then that may not be a bad thing - they are popular. I did then consider the Z4M which has the same power as the normal M3 but its engine lump was reliable and unaffected by the engine failure issue due to bearings but I believe they were only made in 06-08 and the cheapest 06 was £18k, slightly out of my price range at the time. They are also marginally faster than the E46 M3 (although most M3 owners would disagree of course) but it is almost 100kg lighter with the same power output and factory stats show it to be the superior car. However it's one for the future. Best bet if you're still unconvinced is to test drive a Z and M3 and make your mind up - but if you do get an M3 I would buy strictly only from a dealer with extended mfr warranty covering mechanical parts at least for peace of mind.

well it definitely does not need to have an EU symbol but the spacing and font does need to conform 100%. Just pot luck whether you will get pulled - most cops won't bother but it is illegal.

Do you know what brand of exhaust he had? Because that can make a bit of a difference (if for example it was a 'true dual' system), even more so if it has not had a remap. I wouldn't have thought the induction kit would cause the feeling you felt as you mentioned the car was going approx 4000 revs and by that speed you would definitely be getting enough cold air in unless you noticed the flat spot when accelerating from a standstill as an induction kit can suffer from heat soak - however if the car was already moving and you then accelerated you shouldn't have had a flat spot. Do you know approx what mph/gear you were in? It could of course be none of the modifications causing the issue but something else causing it (faulty maf sensor, plugs on way out etc). If in doubt move to the next car. You shouldn't have any doubts before spending out on your car.

Thanks guys. Useful info. Yes safety is my biggest concern after my incident on Saturday. I'm not concerned about what the tread looks like. I think my personal choice comes down to the Vredestein Sessantas or the Bridgestone RE050's. Vredestein have the edge due to their lower cost. Do you guys who have the RE050's generally get the RE050's or RE050A's? Which would last longer, ie has the harder compound? Thanks again for all the replies.

The earlier 276bhp model actually has a fair bit more torque than the 296bhp model and also more than the newest 306bhp "HR" model. The 296bhp onward model does have a slightly nicer interior (although they are very similar - few bits of extra silver trim which is a nice touch) but performance wise there is very little between it and the 276bhp on the road. This is due to the higher torque in the earlier model but slightly less bhp - whereas the 296 model has more bhp but less torque so both cancel each other out. Round town some say the extra torque in the 276 model makes it feel better. Mine was recently on a rolling road totally standard and made a whopping 290lbs/ft. Factory figures are only guides and every car is different. You'd only really see the difference top end where the higher bhp would allow the 296 model to edge ahead. Just keep an eye on the oil if you get the 296 model as a small number had high consumption issues but should be fine as long as you check it every week or two. If I were you I would take a few for test drives and get a feel for which feels good on the road. One thing to bear in mind is the GT4 model does not have the updated interior but has the newer 296bhp engine. Good luck in your search

Hi is anyone running resonated decat pipes with a Nismo cat back exhaust (with y-pipe) and what level of rasp do you get if any? What brand of resonated decat pipe are you using? Thanks for any info.

Mark, Id be interested if the price was right. Any idea what your price will be as I know you offer good prices on MD stock

They are made in the same place so I am led to understand. Both Megan and Japspeed are known to just badge other unbranded products... Didn't realist that. Thanks for the info.

Or resonated test pipes / decats, anyone?

Spacer + MREV2 lower plenum works best on the revup engine which you have. Mark at Abbey Motorsport normally stock both of these at very good prices.

However they are only available in the US and pricey to import plus I have heard they can crack easily Want to find out what the Japspeed resonated ones are like if anyone has them.

I used to have Goodyear F1's on my old car but they lasted less than a year and when they were close to the limit on tread they were scary in the wet. I do love the tread pattern though.

You should be able to get a bluetooth adapter for around £50-60. I got mine brand new for £50.

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm only really interested to know what people think of the Japspeed "resonated/silenced" decat/test pipes as I'm thinking of getting them. I've got a Nismo system and know only a few brands actually sound good, with minimal or no rasp (such as Megan V2 resonated ones which produce no rasp at all with a Nismo - however they are only available in the US). However Japspeed are reasonably priced at £130 inc vat and delivery. Anyone got the resonated test pipes on they car?

Bump