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Rear camber after lowering...?


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#1 chris w

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 10:53

Alright all.... mods feel free to move this if you feel its in the wrong place.

After fitting some Eibach (pro kit) springs to my Z

im a bit worried about the amount of camber im running on the back end now.... its alot more than i thought i was going to have.

here is a pic of the car on the srpings

ill take a pic of the back end showing the camber.


anyone can give me advice....?

also is there a way of adjusting the camber if need be?

and is it me but from certain angles it looks like its toeing out?

cheers
chris.

#2 GIXXERUK

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 11:29

from the pics that does look too much and looks as though it will wear the inside of tyres :scare:

i was told the rear is not adjustable by demon tweeks ?? but i was told on here that it is ??

i know you can buy the rear (wishbones ?) that do have adjustment, from the states iirc

sorry thats not much help but it does look wrong to me
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#3 Chris`I

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 11:31

I beleive rear camber is slightly adjustable. From what I've seen of the service manual there is a nut to adjust it but not by much. Phil and Envy do kits to sort this out I think, best give him a call, much faster and more reliable than our hear-say ;)
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#4 chris w

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 11:32

yeah thats one of my scares going through tyres ain't going to be cheap

when there 275 wide..:scare:
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#5 bobby

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 11:53

chris w said:

yeah thats one of my scares going through tyres ain't going to be cheap

when there 275 wide..:scare:

The adjustment is a bit complicated and needs to be done in tandem on both sides....doing one side will throw the other out....you need a knowledgeable experienced place to do it...can be done yourself if you are really into maintaining your own cars mechanically....but need ramps and alignment tools etc...preferably a 2 man job if done at home!!

#6 chris w

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 11:58

bobby said:

chris w said:

yeah thats one of my scares going through tyres ain't going to be cheap

when there 275 wide..:scare:

The adjustment is a bit complicated and needs to be done in tandem on both sides....doing one side will throw the other out....you need a knowledgeable experienced place to do it...can be done yourself if you are really into maintaining your own cars mechanically....but need ramps and alignment tools etc...preferably a 2 man job if done at home!!

have you done it before Bobby?

does anyone know what the standard settings are, for camber and toe?
will the optimum settings have changed since ive got the springs on and alloys...?

cheers

#7 bigphil

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 12:06

Just give us a call Chris
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#8 Chris`I

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 12:07

bigphil said:

Just call Chris
Dont call me, I dont have a f'in clue what I'm doing - call Phil  :teeth:  :lol:
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#9 GIXXERUK

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 13:26

Chris`I said:

bigphil said:

Just call Chris
Dont call me, I dont have a f'in clue what I'm doing - call Phil  :teeth:  :lol:

:lol:  thats a perfect line for zedrush's sig  :thumbs:
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#10 Toon Chris

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Posted 19 March 2008 - 13:44

I don't think that much camber is something to worry about at all.  That camber will give you more grip when going fast through a tight corner and is quite desirable.  ( apart from anything else it looks right on a lowered car :) ).   I`ve many a lowered car and with camber easily as much or more than that and it doesn't wear the tyre any faster (unless you spin the wheels all the time).  Look at the pics and you will see that what you actually get is slightly more compression on the inner tyre wall than the outer - the tread is still flat.  It you fitted very low profile tyres (say on a 20" wheel) then the tyre wall couldn't compress so easily and you would see the back end running on the inner side of the tread, but with your tyres you don't have that.  Don't let the tyre run low on pressure as you could overheat the inner wall on long journeys, but that's good advice for any tyre.

Toe-in is another matter. A *small* amount of toe-in may help keep the car in a straight line but any more and you will scrub the tyres of tread really quickly.  I think toe-out is generally bad on the rear wheels but I`m less sure on that one for e RWD car.  Unless there is a more recommended setup for sports use, I would suggest you make sure yours is still set to the standard recommended settings for a 350Z.
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#11 Adam@Z1auto.com

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Posted 20 March 2008 - 16:42

on these cars as you lower them you induce negative camber and toe in.  The car calls for a fair bit of camber stock, but toe is what KILLS tires.  As you lower the car and fit wider wheels, bigger tires, lower offsets, any issues become even more exaggerated.

The car does offer a tiny bit of adjustment from the factory.  The rear is fitted with eccentric bolts for the camber and toe arms, which give you around .25-.5 degrees of movement...not a ton, but on some cars it may be enough to put it back to spec.  The front does not have any camber adjustment, only toe (via tie rod ends).  To adjust front camber requires an aftermarket front a arm (I use the Cusco on my car, and they are amazing pieces, and zero issues in all the years we've carried them, unlike other brands).  For the rear, the standard in the industry is the SPC kit.  It features a threaded arm for camber, and a new eccentric bolt for toe that has a much wider sweep than the factory bolt does.

Cusco A Arms:

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SPC Rear Camber/Toe Kit:

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Cusco also recently introduced their own camber/toe arms for the rear.  I've had the prototype versions on my car for ages now, though the production pieces are a bit different (pillowballs at either end, and lighter)

pics of the Cusco rear pieces installed:

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and always in stock if anyone needs :)

#12 chris w

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Posted 20 March 2008 - 18:44

cheers Adam , thats clear everything up for me how much are the rear arms SPC and CUSCO?

;)
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#13 Adam@Z1auto.com

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 12:20

pm'd you Chris

#14 S1 HNK

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 12:32

the very reason i didnt go for eibach...too low and they end costing a fortune once you've adjusted the camber!!
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#15 bigphil

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 13:28

S1 HNK said:

the very reason i didnt go for eibach...too low and they end costing a fortune once you've adjusted the camber!!


Not true, Chris's car is now back in spec without the addition of any other parts.
Everything had been loosened to fit the springs so all out of place, get stuff fitted at the right place and the right result is achieved.
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#16 Stew

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 13:36

Good result that as I have my Eibachs waiting to go on!

It did look pretty cool with that camber and those wheels though.  May not be practical but it does look good! :lol::lol:

#17 S1 HNK

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 13:55

bigphil said:

S1 HNK said:

the very reason i didnt go for eibach...too low and they end costing a fortune once you've adjusted the camber!!


Not true, Chris's car is now back in spec without the addition of any other parts.
Everything had been loosened to fit the springs so all out of place, get stuff fitted at the right place and the right result is achieved.

So the camber is spot on without any parts being fitted....i looked through hundreds of threads when looking at which springs to get and everyone who had eibachs said their camber was out and couldnt be adjusted perfectly without new parts.

do i stand corrected? (said the man wearing orthopedic shoes)  :lol:
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#18 bigphil

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Posted 24 March 2008 - 14:07

S1 HNK said:

bigphil said:

S1 HNK said:

the very reason i didnt go for eibach...too low and they end costing a fortune once you've adjusted the camber!!


Not true, Chris's car is now back in spec without the addition of any other parts.
Everything had been loosened to fit the springs so all out of place, get stuff fitted at the right place and the right result is achieved.

So the camber is spot on without any parts being fitted....i looked through hundreds of threads when looking at which springs to get and everyone who had eibachs said their camber was out and couldnt be adjusted perfectly without new parts.

do i stand corrected? (said the man wearing orthopedic shoes)  :lol:


part of the reason for any suspension change is to enhance the cars handling.
The 350Z has limited adjustment as standard for camber but also has what is classed as an acceptable range. It is posssible to get the car back within this range hence our comment back in spec. The level of camber at this point is still greater than standard but in a positive way with respect to handling.
At this setting there will be no adverse effect on tyre wear as the toe settings are spot on.
The ability to bring the car within this range was shown to us by Nissan engineers at Le Mans and is not something we will divulge full details of.
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#19 chris w

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Posted 25 March 2008 - 17:58

S1 HNK said:

bigphil said:

S1 HNK said:

the very reason i didnt go for eibach...too low and they end costing a fortune once you've adjusted the camber!!


Not true, Chris's car is now back in spec without the addition of any other parts.
Everything had been loosened to fit the springs so all out of place, get stuff fitted at the right place and the right result is achieved.

So the camber is spot on without any parts being fitted....i looked through hundreds of threads when looking at which springs to get and everyone who had eibachs said their camber was out and couldnt be adjusted perfectly without new parts.

do i stand corrected? (said the man wearing orthopedic shoes)  :lol:

Yeah the car is now back to a more normal setting with thanks to PHIL from ESR cheers.  :thumbs:

#20 Adam@Z1auto.com

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Posted 26 March 2008 - 17:50

The car comes std with eccentric bolts for rear camber and toe - nothing revolutionary here.  The problem is, they only allow a very minimal amount of adjustment.  Cars are like fingerprints..no 2 are the same.  So, when the car comes from Nissan, there is a range of alignments it can have when new, that is still in the acceptable range.  If the car starts off with a very nominal setting, and is then lowered, its possible to get the rear back in spec without parts.  Some cars though, with even small amounts of lowering, are completely out of spec right off the bat, and will require the addition of a rear camber/toe kit.  Only way to tell is a before/after on the alignment rack.

For the front, only toe is adjustable (via tie rod ends) - there is no front camber adjustment.