RobPhoboS Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) Having just fitted the Eibach ARB's on the weekend I thought I'd ask about this (Bennett, I know you're watching!!! ). So I didn't get a second to even look at them after torquing up and heading off for my MOT. I presume the ends should be parallel to the ground ? Some talk about it here which sounds about right to me: http://forum.miata.n...ad.php?t=451131 Note: I'll be doing this when the car is on a ramp Edited March 31, 2015 by RobPhoboS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 You're right, running lowered will put extra stress on the drop link and wear it out quicker, so people tend to buy adjustable drop links to bring it back to OEM specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT4 Zed Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 As the pics rightly show and I said numerous times you need adjustable droplink when you lower your car. The factory droplink is design with the factory ARB and height so droping the car the droplinks push the ARB upwards and put preload(twist) into the ARB and reducing the amount of anti twist left to resist roll. Being parallel is not so much as important as getting the endlink pivot (ball joint) line pepenficular into the ARB holes and the chassis pick up point and in doing so it will have no preload and invariably be parallel. If you got adjustable droplinks then: Get the car on a flat surface ideally ramp. Disconnect both droplink ends off the ARB. Adjust one end first so the droplink bolt can slot into freely into the ARB slot of your preference. Put the nut loosely and then repeat on the other side. Then tighten everything. Repeat one the other axle. Some people put an equivalent weight of the driver on the driver seat but I think it's BS. If you want to be doing this then get the car corner weighted which is a similar process but you put a full or half full tank of fuel, then make small coilover height adjustment at each corner until you achieve identical weights on each axle end and cross corners. This gives you the best handling possible. Takes time to do and cost usually over £250. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 Cheers mate, I've not checked them out yet but I'll post up a few pic's of whatever I discover. It's not a complaint or something I feel, just thought I'd mention this on it's own well deserved thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPhoboS Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 This looks like a bit of preload to me on the ARB: Check out the leaky diff bushing I tried to get a photo of the front ones but it was a bit tricky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian@TORQEN Posted April 27, 2015 Share Posted April 27, 2015 SPL endlinks come to mind! I actually have a rear set in stock 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.