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Polishing pads


Shane Brede

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The key is the prep.

 

Use a decent pad (I like the Lake Country ones) with a light cutting agent like a Lime Prime, and then wipe off using a good microfibre. Apply your favourite wax by hand, then wipe off again. That'll give you a pretty decent start, at least.

 

 

Buffing after a waxing isn't needed really, at that point you're just removing excess wax. All you need is a decent MF and you'll be sorted.

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Thanks for the reply Ekona I've just had delivered some DODO Juice stuff ( Supernatural shampoo/Supernatural Micro Prime Polish and Supernatural Wax ) so should get a good shine and protection after giving this a try seems to be given the thumbs up on most sites I check. I normally snow foam/shampoo/polish then wax if the rain stays away long enough. :thumbs:

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To answer your question, OP; any DA pad that's larger than the backing pad with a Velcro (sorry, hook & loop) fixture on the back will "fit" the machine - just remember that the backing plate needs to be smaller than the pad, so smaller pads will require smaller backing plates. You'll want to avoid pads designed for rotary polishers though, they won't last too long on DA.

 

However, what Ekona did gone done say. You really don't want to be buffing wax with a machine.

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  • 1 month later...

Im dipping my toes into this but I see meguiars ultimate compound isn't the worst to go with. I know that the zeds paint is quite thin though so I dont want to do more damage than good with a too aggressive pad. Which of the hydrotech would you recommend then?

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If using an orbital polisher you'd be incredibly hard pressed to do any damage at all. The medium pad would be fine with the UC, maybe even the light pad, should give decent results without any risk. Don't expect miracles though, you can only do so much with it, but as a place to start you'll be fine :)

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