mr_smith126 Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Hi everyone, thought I'd get some of your input and guidance here to help me resolve. I got the Invidia Gemini system and Berk decat pipes installed at the weekend. Firstly I think the system and set up is great, just what I was after in terms of sound, quality of system and price. But I have a few niggles to try and iron out. Vibration on deceleration: There is a 'buzz' on deceleration or at idle when you rev and let off, same thing. Anyone experienced the same? I did do a little homework and found a few links to people state side suggesting the decat pipes really could do with a bracket to stop movement. Also from closer inspection of install pics I think perhaps there are a few locations where the system is close or touching the heat shield on the diff. Has anyone played around with the heat shield to give better clearence, it's not metal so assume this could have a mild 'fettle'? I will be speaking to my garage as they are a good bunch and I'm sure they will help resolve, but thought i'd do some homework first. Tail pipe fitment: I was very particular that I wanted the pipes nicely lined up. My installer showed me the problem he had which was the left tail pipe needed to seat properly set in enough to get good grip on the bracket, not a problem, positioned this one perfectly. But the tail pipe on the right, in order to match position of the left created a bit of an issue. In order to marry with the position of the left and sit back far enough you then encounter the bend of the pipe it's connecting to and therefore this pushes it to the right naturally as it meets the bend. I may be being fussy here, but I think detail like this makes all the difference. We can't pull the left hand one out a bit as it's just not secure enough so needs to seat far enough on the pipe to be secure and then that leaves an issue with the one on the right that the bend of the pipes forces the position out. Not sure what I can do with this, but it will bug me if I don't get it sorted. CEL light: Was fine to begin with, then after a little 'spirited' driving light came on! I assume the only resolve here is a remap? Was trying to hold off on that one until I had an Mrev2 installed. I assume it's not going to hurt and will just have to live with the CEL light for a bit.. Your help and guidance as always appreciated.. Pics > 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrt Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 Had the same sort of problems with mine when fitted by a local garage. Then I took it to Falcon over in Middlesbrough and they re jigged the whole setup and now I don,t have a problem with alignment or my HFC,s touching the bodywork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_smith126 Posted November 25, 2014 Author Share Posted November 25, 2014 Had the same sort of problems with mine when fitted by a local garage. Then I took it to Falcon over in Middlesbrough and they re jigged the whole setup and now I don,t have a problem with alignment or my HFC,s touching the bodywork. They should know what they are doing.. they're a jap specialist.. I'm sure they will take a look when I get back to them. Was interested to see if anyone else has the view that decats should have a bracket though.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 25, 2014 Share Posted November 25, 2014 I run exactly the same set up (Invidia Gemini system & Berks De-Cats) with none of the issues you have so I'd say as Roger said it's some sort of fitment issue that just needs a little tweaking to sort out. The De-Cats also don't have the support brackets to mount onto the old OEM support brace so unless you weld some on that won't work, ...plus they don't need them at all imo. The EML light came on when I used to run Berks HFC's and it would definitely come on now with my De-Cats if I hadn't had it sorted with the UpRev when it was supercharged. The only way's around the EML coming on are; go back to standard Cats or try some O2 sensor spacers ~ available for £12 odd each from Clark Motorsport but don't always work or bite the bullet & just get the UpRev done. You can always do the ECU reset (AKA Pedal dance) to turn off the EML or buy an OBDII code reader that can turn off the EML plus read the codes. Worth remembering that although driving around with the EML on because of the O2 sensor error code will do no harm it will of course mask any other error codes that may pop up. So it is best to have a code reader to check the codes if you intend leaving the EML for a while just so you can check that nothing else is wrong. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 No such problems with mine when I had it, although it looks like they have redesigned the "Y" section to include some springs, I assume to make better fitment, but I wonder what else was changed that isn't so obvious. However, looking at my version of the exhaust, there is/was plenty of grip from the clamps to hold on the tail pipes, so you should be able to pull them both out a few mm so they are level and straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 No such problems with mine when I had it, although it looks like they have redesigned the "Y" section to include some springs, I assume to make better fitment, but I wonder what else was changed that isn't so obvious. However, looking at my version of the exhaust, there is/was plenty of grip from the clamps to hold on the tail pipes, so you should be able to pull them both out a few mm so they are level and straight. The "Y" section has been like that since 2013, ...it's a much better design with no flexi joints to damage or rip open on speed bumps etc. Plenty of room with my tail pipes too for alignment adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KyleR Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Maybe since the end of 2013 because mine was bought at the start. Not relevant when it was updated, anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted November 26, 2014 Share Posted November 26, 2014 Maybe since the end of 2013 because mine was bought at the start. Not relevant when it was updated, anyway. Yeah end of 2013. Got mine December so at the end of the year. Still think it's one of the best exhausts available for the money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_smith126 Posted November 27, 2014 Author Share Posted November 27, 2014 Thanks for the feedback gents. I'm going back on Saturday and hopefully with a little 'fine tuning' all will be resolved, I'll report back... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_smith126 Posted December 1, 2014 Author Share Posted December 1, 2014 Well went back to my garage to get them to check out my issues as arranged with them for Saturday. When i got there, they said they had some last minute stuff come in and were too busy to look. So I went to see Ross at Japex. I'd like to say Ross was spot on, had a look for me even though he was in theory shut by then. Had a good look over the system for me, resolved an issue where the pipe was close to the heat shield on the diff, but I still had the noise from the system, kind of a rasp/vibration. Upon closer inspection we found this.. a hairline crack in the weld on the x-pipe. You can just about make out where it is blowing from the blackening on the flange.. Hopefully it will get sorted but frustrating being one of the very few to come across this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted December 1, 2014 Share Posted December 1, 2014 Well I never. Hopefully it'll get sorted then now you know what the problem is at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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