Jump to content

Clutch pedal sticking


gort

Recommended Posts

The last two times I've taken mine to Santa Pod if I hold my clutch at 3k revs (any lower and its fine) to start my clutch sticks and wont release until I'm at least half way down the track (I can get the pedal up with my foot behind it, but the clutch itself is still engaged), I'm assuming this is a slave cylinder problem too (and praying not a master one lol) (even better if it is just a cable). I need to get it sorted for next time as its pretty tragic getting a 27 seconds over 1/4 mile lol

 

Its a DE on 74.5k miles and have no issues other than if I try and pull away from 3k revs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as I know there is no uprated one for the DE only the HR that runs a concentric type.

 

The kit we sell for the DE includes a new Nissan slave cylinder, Hosetechnik stainless clutch line and 500ml of Mogul RBF600 for £119.95

 

Is this because the HR one is a seperate unit and the DE is a fixed component or similar?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The last two times I've taken mine to Santa Pod if I hold my clutch at 3k revs (any lower and its fine) to start my clutch sticks and wont release until I'm at least half way down the track (I can get the pedal up with my foot behind it, but the clutch itself is still engaged), I'm assuming this is a slave cylinder problem too (and praying not a master one lol) (even better if it is just a cable). I need to get it sorted for next time as its pretty tragic getting a 27 seconds over 1/4 mile lol

 

Its a DE on 74.5k miles and have no issues other than if I try and pull away from 3k revs.

 

Sounds similar to what was happening to our car, you could pick the pedal up with your foot but it stuck about 1/2 way.

 

New slave and braided hose fitted makes pedal feel excellent - it's not a big job actually

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys, I have had this problem in the past and they are pretty much related to adjusting the clutch pedal.

 

I adjusted my pedal down to slightly below the brake pedal and noticed a fantastic improvement initially. But after a few hundred miles the pedal started sticking half way down and I had to use my toe to return it.

 

This was caused by taking the pedal too far down on adjustment past the natural return point of the spring. Adjusting it back by 1 thread fixed it.

 

Then when I changed the clutch and put on a light weight fly wheel, the problem returned, but the pedal was lower than previously adjusted. So I adjusted out again by another thread and ran it for a few hundred miles and adjusted back down again....problem solved.

 

You just need to make sure your adjustment doesn't take out the return tension of the spring.....especially in older cars where the tension may not be as good as from new....

 

But I also agree that the slave cylinder can be a problem as well......

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello, just bled the slave cylinder and it felt a lot better ,then went back to how it was ! replaced the slave cylinder and bled that up, not getting any better ! the thrust bearing is noisy though , my mechanic says change the clutch as the fingers might be damaged and that's not helping my pedal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...