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DIY P3 service


350zedd

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Skint after my recent zed purchase, I've discovered a P3 service is looming fast including a diff & gearbox oil change.

 

So its time to shake the cobwebs off the old boiler suit and get stuck in.

 

Saves £20/hr labour at my preferred indy and I'd rather do it myself anyway.

 

Had company cars for years so never had to get the spanners out.

 

As I'm a bit rusty, and new to zed servicing is there anything I need to watch out for or any special bits to buy.

 

After draining & refilling coolant are there any airlock issues? :snorkel:

 

Best method to replace brake fluid?

 

Cheers

Steve

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Skint after my recent zed purchase, I've discovered a P3 service is looming fast including a diff & gearbox oil change.

 

So its time to shake the cobwebs off the old boiler suit and get stuck in.

 

Saves £20/hr labour at my preferred indy and I'd rather do it myself anyway.

 

Had company cars for years so never had to get the spanners out.

 

As I'm a bit rusty, and new to zed servicing is there anything I need to watch out for or any special bits to buy.

 

After draining & refilling coolant are there any airlock issues? :snorkel:

 

Best method to replace brake fluid?

 

Cheers

Steve

 

There's loads of guides on here. Everything is pretty straight forward. Just keep eye on coolant level after and top up as needed. If you pour the new coolant slowly, you shouldn't have any problems :thumbs:

 

Re: brake fluid, I use the pressure of a spare wheel which slightly pressurises the system which means I can do it by myself. I would highly recommend this if doing it yourself.

 

Re: gear and diff oils: You can get a draper syringe for the diff and gearbox oil off eBay for about £10. This is a must have. Be careful when un doing the plugs to not round them out.

 

Just make sure you use the correct/best quality fluids. Worth giving the traders on here a shout who will point you in the right direction. Clark Motorsport/zmanalex or opie oils are a good shout.

 

:teeth:

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No airlock issues if you drain from the bottom of the radiator and refill carefully. To do a full flush you need to drain the fluid from the engine block too which will be difficult and you'll be more at risk of getting a lot of air in the system. I recommend only replacing what you drain from the radiator which was around 6L when I did it (there's approx 8.7L total coolant in system) There is a bleed screw at the top right of the engine bay near the firewall which you need to remove when you refill, coolant will bubble through it whilst you're filling it and when it overflows out with no bubbles replace the bleed screw and continue filling. You shouldn't get any air in the system that way, make sure you pour slowly.

 

Brake fluid is easy, best method is using two people. I bought one of those Gunson Eezebleed things you attach to the spare wheel to pressurise the system but unfortunately it doesn't fit the Z master cylinder. NEVER let the reservoir run dry or you will he a major air problems. See this thread for bleeding order http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/21148-bleeding-brakes/ be careful with the bleed nipples they are prone to rounding. I soaked mine in plus gas releasing spray the night before then cracked each nipple with a six point socket to avoid rounding with the flats on a spanner. I found it difficult to get a flare nut spanner to fit the nipples properly so just used a normal spanner carefully.

 

Diff and gearbox are easy, just make sure you remove the fill plug first, because if you drain all the fluid and find out the fill plug is seized then you will be stuck! As above Draper syringe works well. Need a 10mm hex for these.

 

Recommend you replace spark plugs too if they are due. Only use genuine fluids on diff/gearbox and coolant.

Edited by Jp606
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