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Mould on speakers?


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Took door card off to do a window reset to find this

 

DDC1B3AB-CAA6-445A-8E5B-090CFEB62ED0-202-000016AEA4CB028D_zps8d92c08d.jpg

 

Like really?!? Mould???

 

But I did find a sure and effective way if getting rid of it.

You do this

 

A38827A8-42D0-4BA1-A8A7-F46571FFDC29-202-000016AECF01A50C_zps71d7fa06.jpg

 

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

In disgust of the mouldy speaker I went to local car audio shop, got some coaxials and components and spent the rest of the day taking almost all of the interior plastics out and putting the replacements in.

 

But it was worth it and the car sounds better for it.

It might not be your top of the range install but for my ears it will do (for now)

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At least the hard bit of routing the speaker wire into the doors is done.

That was probably the hardest bit to do today, like first undoing the main plug, then cutting a hole for the wire with a craft knife, push wire through, and then putting it all back together. Talk about restrictive access on the drivers side with all them other wiring looms about.

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I just messed about with my setup the other day. I was running 60wrms each side so 120wrms in total for the woofers and 35wrms for the tweeters as I'm running active. Noticed the wiring was wrong so bridged the amp and now EACH side is getting 180wrms so 360wrms in total and the tweeters gain is down but still 35wrms x 2 so 70wrms. It's soo clean and it kicks like a donkey. I wouldn't bother running from my headunit anymore its not even worth it IMO (once you amped it) that is, Gain turned down on my sub too but that kicking harder than ever too.

 

Good work though mate.

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I just messed about with my setup the other day. I was running 60wrms each side so 120wrms in total for the woofers and 35wrms for the tweeters as I'm running active. Noticed the wiring was wrong so bridged the amp and now EACH side is getting 180wrms so 360wrms in total and the tweeters gain is down but still 35wrms x 2 so 70wrms. It's soo clean and it kicks like a donkey. I wouldn't bother running from my headunit anymore its not even worth it IMO (once you amped it) that is, Gain turned down on my sub too but that kicking harder than ever too.

 

Good work though mate.

That's a lot of worms... :lol:

Like I said, it will do for now.

Adding amps and swapping out for better speakers might happen, but not for a while

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Nice work. Couldn't be a worse place for mould, the vibrations just help to disperse the spores into the cabin. On the postive, the solid plastic grilles will have blocked most of the airborne nastiness! Good to see you picked it up. Nice when a little audio tweak makes a big difference too isn't it? Enjoy.

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I just messed about with my setup the other day. I was running 60wrms each side so 120wrms in total for the woofers and 35wrms for the tweeters as I'm running active. Noticed the wiring was wrong so bridged the amp and now EACH side is getting 180wrms so 360wrms in total and the tweeters gain is down but still 35wrms x 2 so 70wrms. It's soo clean and it kicks like a donkey. I wouldn't bother running from my headunit anymore its not even worth it IMO (once you amped it) that is, Gain turned down on my sub too but that kicking harder than ever too.

 

Good work though mate.

That's a lot of worms... :lol:

Like I said, it will do for now.

Adding amps and swapping out for better speakers might happen, but not for a while

 

True enough. Do you plan to amp the rear speakers too?

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I just messed about with my setup the other day. I was running 60wrms each side so 120wrms in total for the woofers and 35wrms for the tweeters as I'm running active. Noticed the wiring was wrong so bridged the amp and now EACH side is getting 180wrms so 360wrms in total and the tweeters gain is down but still 35wrms x 2 so 70wrms. It's soo clean and it kicks like a donkey. I wouldn't bother running from my headunit anymore its not even worth it IMO (once you amped it) that is, Gain turned down on my sub too but that kicking harder than ever too.

 

Good work though mate.

That's a lot of worms... :lol:

Like I said, it will do for now.

Adding amps and swapping out for better speakers might happen, but not for a while

 

True enough. Do you plan to amp the rear speakers too?

If and when amps will be added, it will be two amps, one 4-channel for front and rear speakers and one monoblock/1-channel amp for a subwoofer

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I just messed about with my setup the other day. I was running 60wrms each side so 120wrms in total for the woofers and 35wrms for the tweeters as I'm running active. Noticed the wiring was wrong so bridged the amp and now EACH side is getting 180wrms so 360wrms in total and the tweeters gain is down but still 35wrms x 2 so 70wrms. It's soo clean and it kicks like a donkey. I wouldn't bother running from my headunit anymore its not even worth it IMO (once you amped it) that is, Gain turned down on my sub too but that kicking harder than ever too.

 

Good work though mate.

That's a lot of worms... :lol:

Like I said, it will do for now.

Adding amps and swapping out for better speakers might happen, but not for a while

 

True enough. Do you plan to amp the rear speakers too?

If and when amps will be added, it will be two amps, one 4-channel for front and rear speakers and one monoblock/1-channel amp for a subwoofer

 

Might be worth considering a five channel when you weigh up the costs. The hertz one in my zed comfortably drives all four plus the sub, which gently massages my back at low levels and at high levels rattles my fillings.

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Yep I amped all 4 spesker, in my opinion it sounded much fuller in the zed with the rear speakers being right behind you, I know some will say that just fronts are sufficient but for me I am glad I changed all 4 and amped them :bose:

 

Your fronts just werent running enough power then :lol:

 

But I'm glad the rear speakers are gone in my car. It dragged the sound stage back. Plus you can never find as good coaxs then you can comps. Plus you can't run as much power through them and if you did because of the aiming it might be a little painful.

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What model speakers did you use and do they fit without any mods ?

 

 

Ta.

Just got some entry level Pioneer 170's.

You will need to mod the existing front speakers to reuse the frame to mount the new speakers and you will need to cut a bit of plastic out of the harness plugs where the door shut is. Rears are a straight swap with no mods.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Spent today fitting the amp :)

 

Along with the amp I had bought these

Audison 4-Gauge powercable kit

61DCFB0A-D906-49A0-97EC-CEC7DFA20972-27173-000007E7003C854D_zpsd58b7b50.jpg

 

Audison RCA leads

B781534A-E962-4CFE-B8B6-B86FE990C56B-27173-000007E7099D4B23_zpsb3b887eb.jpg

 

Such a shame that such good looking cables are to be hidden away :(

 

Dusted off my old Bazooka Tube and started to wonder where to fit it.

Then I realised it was the same width as the Bose Sub mounting plate, so in it went

24F4DA3E-34DC-4742-890B-5FB07CB53EDB-27173-000007E7149637B4_zps194a9158.jpg

 

All that was left was to tidy up this mess

7929BED2-9D70-4403-82DE-E578BCCFDC78-27173-000007E72066A0BB_zps658ab5fe.jpg

 

And all done :D

0189EB92-6C4A-40B7-A9F2-1EB5451B6E46-27173-000007E743E222D1_zps6eb52b8d.jpg

 

I left the gain settings on default as on the test fire up I had plenty volume.

And really really happy to report my old Bazooka Tube still kicks like back in the day, it reminded me how bad the Bose sub actually is.

I also like the little touches on the Alpine Amp, like connecting speaker wires to plug in connectors, just keeps everything nice and neat.

 

Threw a couple of tracks at it and it did put a smile on my face

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