SteveW Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Well after originally painting some parts of the dash board as an update to the interior I was left with what kind of looked half finished Here is what it looked like after round 1 of painting: The cubby door looked a bit stupid...... Well that has now been painted and the update looks 10 times better. Only bad thing is now the button looks stupid so must do something with that. Nearly there tho, thinking some Di Noc Carbon wrap on the button. Sunlight pics (apologies for focus, done on IPhone) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marzman Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 Dude that looks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DannyBoy Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 If you can be bothered (which i'm guessing you can because that's an awesome job ) you can take the inside of the cubby door off and get the button on it's own to paint it. If that's what you did in the first place rather than masking up then ignore me because i'm telling you what you already know. DB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manphibian Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 The button looks ok as it is to me. The whole thing looks amazing! Although, is it just the pic or do you get a hell of a lot of orange glare reflected on the pods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothers2901 Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 very nice job. Just one question did you have to sand the rough finish away before paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheesypuff Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Looks excellent, I've been thinking of doing the same thing for a while but a combination of laziness and the aggro i had last time I took the dash off has stopped me. What did you use to smooth the centre console off and how easy was it to get such a good finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveW Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Dude that looks Thanks mate, I am pretty happy with it If you can be bothered (which i'm guessing you can because that's an awesome job ) you can take the inside of the cubby door off and get the button on it's own to paint it. If that's what you did in the first place rather than masking up then ignore me because i'm telling you what you already know. DB Thank you for the info mate but I already knew. I took the button out first before painting it, was hoping it would look OK but not sure yet I might try going for brushed aluminium effect... The button looks ok as it is to me. The whole thing looks amazing! Although, is it just the pic or do you get a hell of a lot of orange glare reflected on the pods? Thanks mate I think its a trick of the camera or light, you do get a little bit of reflection from the orange on the screen of teh gauges but nowhere near as bad as it looks in the photo. But when its all lit up at nights it looks cool. very nice job. Just one question did you have to sand the rough finish away before paint? Yes you have to sand the rough finish away before priming and painting. I think I used P240, into P400, into P600, into P800 and then a quick run over with P2000 wet and dry (all rubbing down done wet) to get it smooth. Also Halfords wet and dry paper is rubbish its not waterproof in the slightest and falls apart in a matter of minutes. In my experience paints4u.co.uk do the best wet and dry. It is awesome. Looks excellent, I've been thinking of doing the same thing for a while but a combination of laziness and the aggro i had last time I took the dash off has stopped me. What did you use to smooth the centre console off and how easy was it to get such a good finish? To smooth off the centre console I used wet and dry and a lot of elbow grease! It took 2 hours to rub down the cubby door prior to painting and the rest took even longer. For the pre painiting rub down see above. Afterwards I used the following method for getting the glossy finish: 1) Rub down as described above 2) Wash part thoroughly ensuring no bits of cloth or dust on the part 3) Apply a thin coat of grey plastic primer (should still be able to see the base plastic colour through the primer but only just) 4) Hold upside down whilst it drys to prevent dust and crap getting stuck in the primer 5) When dry apply a thicker coat of primer 6) Again hold upside down until touch dry 7) Leave to cure for 24 hours in a warm environment, I stuck mine on top of the combi boiler 8) Rub down with 2000 grit wet and dry using luke warm water and detergent to get rid of any surface oils 9) Wash thorughly and leave to dry 10) Spray thin coat of paint on top again leaving it so you can just see the primer through. 11) Allow to dry upside down or until touch dry to avoid getting dust stuck in the paint 12) Build up coats of paint in thin layers until you have 3 - 4 coats applied. Now it depends what kind of paint you were using as to next steps. I used pearlescent paint so the next steps are: 13) Allow paint 24 hours to dry and give it a good wash to get rid of any rubbish on the surface. 14) Allow to dry 15) Apply thin coat of laquer 16) Leave to dry 17) Apply thick coat of laquer, make sure not to apply so much that it runs and buggars up all previous hard work. 18) Allow 24 hours to dry in a warm environment 19) Wet rub down the laquer with 2000 grit wet and dry paper until the laquer is flat and doesn't have any 'shiny' high points on the surface. You'll see what I mean as you do it. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO RUB THROUGH THE LACQUER you will have to start again!!!! 20) Once rub down flat wash thoroughly and then break out the T Cut or rubbing compound again be very careful not to go right through the Lacquer the part will start to become very shiny and the fine scrathches will disappear. 21) Wash part 22) Polish and wax. 23) Install your new shiny bits If you are using a solid colour then you need to wet rub down with 2000 grit wet and dry between coats and after the final coat to get the paint super flat before Laquering. Apart from that its just the same. I haven't used any metallic paints but think I would follow the pealescent instructions for metallic unless anyone else knows differently. I am by no menas a pro and have done all this with rattle cans and no spray booth. Having no spray booth is the biggest pain because dust gets everywhere!!! Alsways give your part a dry wipe right before painting to get any dust off, there will be plenty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveW Posted September 12, 2011 Author Share Posted September 12, 2011 Next time the sun is shining, if ever, on it I'll try and remeber to get a pic the pearl paint looks even better in the sun! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac@TarmacSportz Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Nice Work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R35LEE Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 Looks good mate, just not too sure about the orange Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted September 12, 2011 Share Posted September 12, 2011 you know when you've been tangoed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveW Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Yes I suppose the orange is a bit love or hate, If I had a car that was another colour than black I would have colour coded them to match the paint. However, seen as black and the interior lights up orange I figured Orange would be a good trade off. The orange I've used is a 3 stage pearl and a right ball ache to work with! Nozzle gets clogged very easily from all the pearl! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M13KYF Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 dont ya suffer from severe reflections of the pods in the windscreen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3FiftyZ Posted September 13, 2011 Share Posted September 13, 2011 I'm liking what you have done here! How easy is it to get the centre section out? As I looked a a Z yesterday that had quite a bit of wear to the plastic on the 'cubby hole' door & also just below it (above the H/U)... Wondered if it was something simple to sort? Or just replace with genuine parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveW Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 Hi Mike, Yes you do get some reflection, its not much worse than the OE reflection but to be honest I don't really notice them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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