rothers2901

Does anyone have any standard 370 original wheel nuts? thanks martin

I’ve have 4 z’d now all of which have been superb cars. I just need something a little smaller. I’ll be quite as to see it go. It’s a great car with no issues except the wheels could do with a touch up but the car is priced to sell. That said I’m in no real rush. thanks martin.

A real bargain for someone.

For sale is my much looked after 370 convertible. Runs and drives perfectly. Milage is 87k but will go up as it’s used on the weekends. it has full services history upto 80k since then all its servicing has been done by myself. It’s had all oils and filters changed recently ( prior to our French road trip) including gearbox. New front brake pads supplied by Tarmac Sports. A TMS stainless cat back exhaust also fitted by Tarmac Sports. 4 brand new tyres and new spark plugs. It burns zero oil and runs perfectly. The convertible top works as it should no rips, tears or mould. Recent Mot complete. The car is garaged and never gets taken out in the rain. It has had a complete front end respray whilst on holiday last year £1800. I still have the original Nismo exhaust too. price £11,000 ONO. Thanks for looking Martin

I would if I knew how to. Clip is on my iPhone. Any ideas?

New exhaust system fitted by Tarmac Sportz yesterday. Thanks to Bob and the team 👍

I’ll take these if you still have them. I don’t use PayPal. bank transfer ok? PM me with details thanks Martin.

The oil was purchased from Torqen @ 10.55 a bottle x 6 = £63.30 free delivery and came the next day. The transfer pump was from eBay £8 The infra red thermometer was of Amazon £20 oil pan £3 from Toolstaton. Less than £100 all in. Defiantly worth doing it yourself if you can, it’s not difficult. Martin.

Busy morning today.Automatic Transmission oil change.

Do it yourself. If just done mine. It makes the world of difference. I’ve just posted I guide if you’re interested.

Having had the car for nearly a year and changed out most of the usual maintenance serviceable parts, brakes, engine oil and filter, plugs etc, it was time to change the transmission oil. It’s taken this long to get round to it simply due to the weather and having to do it on axel stands. Now I know there’s some that say the transmission is a sealed unit and that it is maintenance free and the oil should last the lifetime of the vehicle, but my thoughts are that nothing lasts for ever and the working properties of oils change with use and time therefore it should be changes periodically. My Z is a 2011 with 80k on the clock and the odds are that the oil is the same oil as when it first left the factory. This is my first automatic so don’t have any past reference to how they operate or behave. The car drove fine in both Drive and in manual mode if not slightly clunky and hesitant when in manual and being driven spiritually shall we say. Now let me say to those who say you don’t need to change the oil in you transmission, no you don’t but if you do it make the world of difference. The car now drive seamlessly in all gears, smooth transition between gears in manual mode and more responsive in drive mode. It’s well worth the money changing he oil even every couple of years. This is a guide to changing the transmission oil on a 2011 370z with an automatic transmission. It there are many related videos on YouTube. If you’re going to tackle this yourself you will need the following items. Oil drain pan some sort of transfer pump ( about £8 on eBay) 6 litres of Matic-S Automatic Transmission Fluid. You may only need 5 but I bought extra for topping up, (your choice) 19mm socket and wrench 5mm Allen key either to fit a wrench or just an Allen key will do it shouldn’t be too tight. Small spirit level. And a infrared thermometer (this is needed to check the working temperature before draining any excess oil. Firstly if you don’t have access to a ramp or garage pit jack up the car both front and back keeping it level. I allowed mine to be slightly lower at the rear to aid more drainage because I wasn’t removing the oil pan. Once on the stands, turn the car on and allow the transmission oil to warm up. I let it get to 84.9f but any warm temp will do it just allows the oil to drain more easily. There are two plug nuts that require unfastening a 19mm nut which is to the rear of the oil pan. This is the drain plug and a 5mm Allen key stud to the front. This is both the location where you refill the transmission and allow any excess oil to be drained following the filling process. Loosen the 5mm Allen stud but don’t remove it. Now place a oil pan or bucket under the 19mm nut, remove it and allow the oil to be drained out there should be approximately 4.5 / 5 litres that comes out. Whilst the oil is draining out remove the 5mm plug in preparation for filling. Once all of the oil has been drained replace the19mm plug and tighten but not too tight. Now pump at least 5 litres of oil back into the transmission. Once you have done this leave the pipe connected to the filling hole and start the car engine for a minute or two to allow the oil to be transferred around the transmission. at this point you need to sit in the car place your foot on the brake pedal and go through the transmission positions starting in Park holding it in that position for 30 seconds, the reverse leave for 30 seconds, neutral 30 seconds and then drive. Then do this in reverse order. (I did this twice) Now leave the car running and allow the transmission to get to it’s working temperature which is between 90f and 110f Once at operating temperature and whilst the engine is still running remove the filling tune and allow any excess oil to drain out back into the oil pan. If nothing comes out you haven’t got enough oil in the transmission so put more in. Then allow any excess to drain out. There should be just a trickle of oil coming out. Replace the 5mm plug and that’s it. The oil change took me a couple of hours and I would say anyone who can change their own engine oil and has the tools can easily do this. It’s well worth doing.. Thanks for reading Martin.

Last couple.

I’m a Meguiars man personally. But there are lots of good products out there. Meguiars just seems to have a longer working time life. the paintwork had some slight swirls which I’m still working on but the the flake now show through. Thanks Martin

Nice day yesterday for a quick polish.

Thanks. My thoughts too. There’s a company close by to me I make contact and feed back. Martin

Required 370 nearside standard tail light. thanks Martin

Took the unit out. bulb is a 921, 12v 16w.

My nearside light has failed. Does anyone know what type of bulb is needed for the rear lights? 2011 370z thanks Martin

Thanks for the reply. Could you drop me a message when they land. Martin

Sorry for the delay. 370z martin

Hi Jay. pm me regarding these regards martin rothers2901

As the tile says. I have been having a slight issue with my roof switch so in need or a new one of a used one that works to fault find. thanks Martin

Quick question. Do you know if the convertible roof switch compatible with a 370? If so how much is it? Thanks martin.

Firstly can I say I’m not an motor electrician or any electrician of any sort so I cannot be held responsible for any advice followed in this guide. Recently I’ve been having an intermittent issue with the roof open and close switch on my 370 so decided to try and trace the fault by firstly trying to identify whether or not it is a switch fault or something else. The fault occurs mainly after being stood overnight or for a period of time. The first time it happened I depressed the open side of the switch and nothing happened . The windows didn’t come down and there was no audible bleep so I decided to explore the switch. I removed the switch housing by pulling firmly upwards the cup holder witch gave me access to the wiring. After depressing the open side of the button and giving the wiring a little wriggle I heard the bleep and the roof opened. This to me suggests a fault on the switch somewhere. I put everything back together and the roof work perfectly as it should. I went out, roof down and opened and closed it several time with no issues. I put the car way in the garage overnight and returned the next day. Low and behold same thing, head scratching time. I repeated the same process but this time opened up the switch completely to expose the rocker switch mechanism and it’s contacts. Nothing seemed broken or misplaced so put it back together, connected the wiring and yes you guessed it bleeped and the roof stated to work again. Now I haven’t been able to confirm the switch is at fault because I don’t know how to and I haven’t been able to source a replacement switch to compare it. There are some second hand switches for the 350’s but I’m not sure these are compatible (maybe someone could enlighten me) anyway i thought what happens if I put the roof down and can’t get it back up? I’m stuck so here’s how I’ve buy-passed the switch in case of an emergency. You will need two sewing pins and a small length of wire bent double with the two ends exposed. pull up the plastic housing via the cup pic 1. This is only held in by a few clips no need foe any screwdrivers or prying tools pic 2. Unclip the wiring from the cup pic 3/4 this helps manoeuvre the unit better. Unplug the connector by depressing the small tab and pulling it out of the switch itself pic 5. Insert the pins into the two slots pic 6 and touch both pins with the wire as in pic 7 this opens the hood. To close the hood put the pins in the slots in pic 8 and again connect together with the wire. if there is anyone out there who could add anything please do so also if you can advise on whether the 350 roof switch would work it would be appreciated.. Martin.