yankeesiter Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Anyone ever changed their spark plugs? How difficult is the job and are any special tools involved? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeilMH Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 There is a guide to how to change the plugs in the Guides section (FAQ). A competent DIYer should be fine doing this - but it does take a couple of hours or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 On the DE or HR engine? HR guide here. viewtopic.php?f=35&t=34166&hilit=spark+plugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martinmac Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 O5 I think Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beavis Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 O5 I think Dave. In that case here you go.Thanks Martin viewtopic.php?f=35&t=4021&hilit=de+spark+plug+change&start=0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Both DE and HR plug swop out is very straight forward and is a DIY Denso Iridium Spark Plugs here: viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44399 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44400 viewtopic.php?f=157&t=44401 Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Easy to do but not a quick job as there is a lot to move out of the way. I recommend getting a long reach plug socket that has a magnetic tip - makes it so much easier. Like this one: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_163003_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 Don't use the ones with a rubber insert. If the insert comes out in the hole, it's a big of a pig to get it out. Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor austin Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 Easy, but as already said allow plenty of time, I agree about 2 hours is plenty. I would also recommend smearing the new plug threads with copperslip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 I would also recommend smearing the new plug threads with copperslip! Or be old school and use a pencil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Personally I would never use any form of lubricant on spark plugs or any other bolt that is likely to be put under heating and cooling cycle stress. Firstly I'd be concerned about the threads or head cracking due to the grease expanding and causing stress due to hydraulic pressures. Secondly you are reducing the earthing of the plug by insulating the thread (not by a lot though) and yes there is copper in the grease but it is held in a suspension of grease. Third, there is a slight possibility that the plugs could loosen up due to the lubrication and heat/cold cycles. Finally, copper grease contains fine particles of copper. It probably won't harm your engine any more than what is already trapped in the oil, but do you want to risk it? I know a lot of mechanics do this all the time and swear they've never had a problem but I just wouldn't do it and never have in 20 years of servicing my own vehicles. Just because it's in a haynes manual does mean it's right either. Jim (dons flame proof suit and ducks for cover) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor austin Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Copper slip was designed for aero engines developed in the mid 30's when Aluminium was used for cylinder heads etc aids heat transfer and stops galling. Pencil lead (not graphite) was a old trick with weak magnetos to help encourage the spark to jump the gap ..it was rubbed on the electrodes...not the threads. Thats what i think anyways...most of my experience is with Merlin engines and cirus engines from the 20's 30's and 40's plus of course old cars too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Watshot Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 When you used to junk your plugs every 6K miles this wasn't a problem. But with new generation plugs that stay in the head for 5 years or so and however many thousands of miles, there have been instances of seized threads and plugs breaking, which is obviously not recommended. I guess your choice is between the suggested risks that Jim has highlighted and the chance of a seized plug. Personally, these days I go for the light smear of copperslip, with no ill effects to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubapics Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 When you used to junk your plugs every 6K miles this wasn't a problem. But with new generation plugs that stay in the head for 5 years or so and however many thousands of miles, there have been instances of seized threads and plugs breaking, which is obviously not recommended. I guess your choice is between the suggested risks that Jim has highlighted and the chance of a seized plug. Personally, these days I go for the light smear of copperslip, with no ill effects to date. I do agree with you about the number of years plugs stay in cars now. I've even heard of plugs siezing in after 1 year - my nephew had this happen on a Ka that was 1 year old and he snapped the plug off. I've recently done the plugs on my Z which had been in for 5 years. They came out no problem and there was no grease on them either. I was reading something about some plugs extend slightly into the chamber and the threads can get carbon build up causing them to sieze on the way out - never experienced that myself despite seeing some carbon build up on the threads. Also plugs these days have a compression seal on them which you should not over tighten. Providing they've been put in correctly in the first place there is no reason why they should not come out. The seal prevents any gas or water entering (and leaving for that matter) the threads and thus prevents any corrosion. Once you break the seal as you undo the plug, they ought to come out without any problems. I'm no expert on this. So someone is bound to put me straight soon! Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Pencil lead (not graphite) was a old trick with weak magnetos to help encourage the spark to jump the gap. That's another trick, but I was thinking more along the lines of a soft graphite pencil on the thread which acts as lubrication - this shouldn't be done if anything is aluminium though as you get Galvanic corrosion... which I guess is why it isn't used that much anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yankeesiter Posted February 17, 2011 Author Share Posted February 17, 2011 Ordered from Zmanalex on Tuesday, received on Thursday. Can't beat that. Thanks. Now comes the hard part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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