Tricky-Ricky Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 OK this is starting to get on my nerves, i can adjust my clutch to work two ways, one feels normal until the car gets fairly hot, and then it starts to loose any free play until i feel that if i don't adjust it the clutch will start to slip, and if i adjust it when its hot to get a little play in it, it will feel like there is too much and sometimes it will feel almost floppy, especially when cold. Now is this a problem with the master cylinder, pressure line or slave cylinder? I have bled it, but it makes no real difference. Had similar on one of my old S14s but not as bad, never did find out why. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 Change them all. Start with the slave and change the fluid at the same time. In stock and good to go same/next day. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 2, 2010 Author Share Posted September 2, 2010 Change them all. Start with the slave and change the fluid at the same time. In stock and good to go same/next day. Alex. Why do you say change all? i did change the fluid, not just bleed, there is an intermittent, pronounced squeak from what i am presuming is a dry clutch arm pivot also? Can you PM me some prices please Alex? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 Change them all. Start with the slave and change the fluid at the same time. In stock and good to go same/next day. Alex. Why do you say change all? i did change the fluid, not just bleed, there is an intermittent, pronounced squeak from what i am presuming is a dry clutch arm pivot also? Can you PM me some prices please Alex? PM on its way matey, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted September 2, 2010 Share Posted September 2, 2010 cna you vid that squeek? think I got a squeek on mine too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 cna you vid that squeek? think I got a squeek on mine too... Will try at some point over the weekend I am pretty sure that the squeak originates from a dry pivot for the clutch arm, next time i am under the car i will try and get some grease in there, as WD40 only works for a short time. Alex i think i will try a new braided clutch hose first to eliminate ballooning, do you sell a seal kit for the master cylinder rather than just throw more money at it by replacing the whole thing, having watched the slave cylinder in operation while bleeding the system i don't think that is at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andlid Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 cna you vid that squeek? think I got a squeek on mine too... Will try at some point over the weekend I am pretty sure that the squeak originates from a dry pivot for the clutch arm, next time i am under the car i will try and get some grease in there, as WD40 only works for a short time. Alex i think i will try a new braided clutch hose first to eliminate ballooning, do you sell a seal kit for the master cylinder rather than just throw more money at it by replacing the whole thing, having watched the slave cylinder in operation while bleeding the system i don't think that is at fault. Mwtech sells the braided lines got one myself there when I got the brake lines... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMANALEX Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 cna you vid that squeek? think I got a squeek on mine too... Will try at some point over the weekend I am pretty sure that the squeak originates from a dry pivot for the clutch arm, next time i am under the car i will try and get some grease in there, as WD40 only works for a short time. Alex i think i will try a new braided clutch hose first to eliminate ballooning, do you sell a seal kit for the master cylinder rather than just throw more money at it by replacing the whole thing, having watched the slave cylinder in operation while bleeding the system i don't think that is at fault. Mwtech sells the braided lines got one myself there when I got the brake lines... Yes I do a seal kit which is priced at £22.38 + vat but the complete master cyl. is only £95.42 + vat. The seal kit though only consists of one seal, one piston and one spring. You will not be able to tell if the slave or master is faulty by just "looking" at the operation. My original post and pm advice still stands. Alex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
was8v Posted September 3, 2010 Share Posted September 3, 2010 How did you adjust the pedal? When I tried I got the clevis pin out OK, slackened off the locknut but couldn't get the clearance (between pedal arm and clevis) to screw the clevis down. (I removed the stop bolt and switch). http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Clutch_Adjustment Did you manage to do this? I really need to lower my biting point! Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted September 3, 2010 Author Share Posted September 3, 2010 How did you adjust the pedal? When I tried I got the clevis pin out OK, slackened off the locknut but couldn't get the clearance (between pedal arm and clevis) to screw the clevis down. (I removed the stop bolt and switch). http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Clutch_Adjustment Did you manage to do this? I really need to lower my biting point! Cheers. There is no need to remove the clevis pin, its a bit fiddly, but you basically just need to slacken the lock nut on the master cylinder treaded shaft, and then using a pair of long nosed pliers or similar, turn the shaft clockwise to lower the peddle, and then you can just adjust the peddle stop bolt to achieve the desired free play and hight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
was8v Posted September 6, 2010 Share Posted September 6, 2010 There is no need to remove the clevis pin, its a bit fiddly, but you basically just need to slacken the lock nut on the master cylinder treaded shaft, and then using a pair of long nosed pliers or similar, turn the shaft clockwise to lower the peddle, and then you can just adjust the peddle stop bolt to achieve the desired free play and hight. Cheers, I'll have another go at it. I tried that but wasn't getting enough grip to turn the rod with my long nose pliers - I didn't want to end up damaging the thread plus I wasn't sure what the other end was attached to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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