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Engine Management Light on


waseem1978

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if you check in the FAQ there is a step by step on how to reset the ECU. This will clear the engine management light error but its a good idea to find out what error code the ECU is kicking up. The guide tells you how to find this out

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Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.

Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:

Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

Fully release the accelerator pedal.

Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

 

**at this point you need to count the CEL light flashes, think it starts by flashes 10 times slowly to indicate it is beginning then faster for the code. For example if it flashes 10 times slowly, 3 times fast, 2 times fast, 5 times fast 10 times slow then the code would be 325, then just match to the code list.

 

Then if you want to clear the code:

 

Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

Wait about 10 seconds.

Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

Turn ignition switch to OFF position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

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The timing is very critical, it should work though. Depending on where you are there may be a member with a reader that they can plug in to check. :) Always nice to identify the problem if you can.

 

I am a mechanic and have a reader at my old work, just a pain in the neck to get over there. I can't see it being a real problem as it only came on after I fitted the pop charger, car drives fine too. :headhurt:

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Thanks! I am struggling!

 

Do I have to use those exact and precise intervals? ie it wont work if I wait 4 secs after ignition rather than 3?

Are the 5 throttle pushes 1 per second or just do it as quick as possible?

 

the first 5 throttle presses are most important, I found that they don't have to be exact but you must make sure the throttle goes as far down as possible and all way back each time and have to fit them all in under 5 seconds.

 

when you turn ignition on some of the dash lights go out after the 3 seconds and thats your cue to start pressing!

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Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.

Repeat the following two procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds:

Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).

Fully release the accelerator pedal.

Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.

 

**at this point you need to count the CEL light flashes, think it starts by flashes 10 times slowly to indicate it is beginning then faster for the code. For example if it flashes 10 times slowly, 3 times fast, 2 times fast, 5 times fast 10 times slow then the code would be 325, then just match to the code list.

 

Then if you want to clear the code:

 

Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)

Wait about 10 seconds.

Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.

Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).

Turn ignition switch to OFF position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.

 

Wow thanks for that just what I needed mine is on because I de-catted it :teeth: need some spacers for the probes if I thrash it the light comes on !

 

Ste .

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the sensor that detects how much air is coming thro the air intake.... HAPPY?

 

Haha he isn't being a pedant. An O2 sensor does actually measure oxygen content in the exhaust gas so as to establish the correct afr. A MAF, also known as Air mass sensor or air flow meter detects the quantity of air entering the intake therefore allowing for a fueling alterations. If the MAF is the type I think, it uses a heated wire. As the air passes the wire cooling it the electrical resistance changes enormously, this resistance reading is sent to the ECU and this is how it works. Old AFM's on early fuel injection systems used a big old flap :)

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